Syncro proper lift kit?

[JS2]

Hi everyone,

I know this topic has been covered many times before, but honestly, after several hours of reading, I’m still not much clearer on it.

I have a T3 Syncro and I’m looking to install a lift kit to gain around 2 inches (5 cm) of extra height. My current setup is: 4 Eibach springs, Sachs front shocks, and Old Man Emu rear shocks.

From what I’ve found online, I’ve read pretty much everything and its opposite. Some people just use spacers, while others go for a full kit with springs and shocks. What’s the actual difference, and what are the benefits of each option?

I’ve also read that the original CV axles need to be replaced. Is that true?

Basically, I’m trying to gather as much information as possible before I take the plunge. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help shed some light on this!

[MarkWard]

I’ll wade in. First, do you need more ride height? You can increase overall ground clearance with taller tires, but taller tires have some trade offs. This maintains your drivetrain and suspension geometry.

Taller springs or spacers will raise the body, but the suspension remains at the original ground clearance. May not be ideal. Spacers and springs will affect drivetrain and suspension geometry.

Just because someone sells something doesn’t necessarily prove they did the research and development. When you raise the body height you also raise the center of gravity. This is not ideal.

So figure out your goals and requirements. If I just wanted a taller van and was happy with handling, spacers seem like a reasonable option. You maybe limited by shock length. I see you are in France, but the person/company I would reach out to is Christopher at T3 Technique. He’s done the R and D and can steer you in the right direction based on your needs.

[JS2]

Hi,

Thanks for your reply! I’ve actually relocated to Australia. I use the Syncro mainly for camping and off-roading, and I’ve already fitted 235/75 R15 tyres. They do rub a bit at the front, by the way.

I understand that the suspension components height remains the same (as the axles do on typical 4WDs with solid axles), but gaining extra ground clearance helps avoid frequently bottoming out the chassis itself - especially in sand - and better protects components like the engine, front differential, and gearbox, even though I have skid plates installed.

Thanks for the contact for T3 Technique, I’ll definitely reach out to them!

[MarkWard]

It might be the picture, but your current ride height front to rear looks terrible. The front appears much higher. Also, you have some interesting fender flares. Perhaps you could enlarge the wheel wells by removing metal then finish the new openings with your flares. That would solve the tire rubbing issue.

So get the ride height corrected, then figure out your required tire clearance. That’s a different type of consideration.

[pbrown]

Burley Motorsports is another good resource for off road Vanagons.

https://burleymotorsports.net/


They have a modified Syncro 16 style trailing arm that might help.

https://burleymotorsports.net/product/16-trailing-arms-set-custom-version/

As for a proper lift kit? I'd try this combo.

* Schwenk lift springs rear with Schwenk stock height springs front.
* Fox shocks front and rear / the front have threaded shock body for adjustable height
* Burley front upper control arm
* Burley 16" rear trailing arm
* T3 front anti-sway bar
* T3 HD100 CV kit at rear (both ends) and front inner.
* Trim the rear corner of rear wheel well for tire clearance
* Widen the front wheel well by cutting and welding rear corner - search forum to find threads on this
_________________
Patrick Brown

1986 Westy Syncro EJ25
Flickr --> https://flic.kr/s/aHsmQNUXEF

[JS2]

The car is parked on a slope, giving the impression that the rear sits lower.

Thanks for sharing the Burley link!

[Kdj]

[/quote]

That thing looks like it's already in Beast Mode. Looks awesome! Is it a pop top also? More pic's.

[JS2]

Thanks, mate!

I'll share a few more pics.

Yes, it’s a Trakka pop-top — only found in Australia. Trakka was the local camper converter!

[Arne@kleinersyncro]

Nice rig you got @JS2, good to see another Aussie Syncro fellow around

Hit me up if you have got any questions, got a couple of them went through the same exercise a few times. Currently running a Dobinsons front and rear shock set up on the Camper.

Cheers

[Sodo]

What are your dimensions axle center to fender lip?
20 inches is considered “max”.
I use 19.5”.

I have a factory stock Syncro too, but can’t remember how many inches.
I’m away from it now , can measure it ~Aug20.

==edit ======

Measured stock '87 Syncro, 56,000 miles
Front 18.3"
Rear 18.5"
_________________


'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, SyncroShop pressure-oiled pinion-bearing & GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox.
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[JS2]

Hi,

@Arne@kleinersyncro Thanks, I'll send you a PM!

@Sodo I have 50 cm (19.7 inches) at the front and 51 cm (20 inches) at the rear.

I was told the same thing by T3 Technique: “You are kind of reaching the upper limits of ride height before you start losing downward wheel travel, especially at the front.”

I'm actually not sure whether the van was lifted before or if it still has its original height. I only noticed that it has Eibach springs, but I don’t know if they are stock size or not. The only height-related modification I’m aware of is the 235/75 R15 tyres. At the moment the van is completely empty, but it will receive a full camper interior, so I reckon that will lower it quite a bit.

[swissarmychainsaw]

On the lift itself:

Springs vs. spacers: Taller springs (like GW, Schwenk, etc.) give you true lift and more travel. Spacers/pucks only push the suspension down, so you don’t actually gain travel.

Shocks: The Sachs/OME mix you’re running is already a solid setup. If you go taller springs, you’ll want to match with longer-travel shocks to avoid topping them out.

On CV axles:

Stock Syncro CVs are pretty robust. At 2" of lift you’re pushing the angle more, which increases wear, but it doesn’t automatically mean you need new axles. Many people run stock CVs with a modest lift.

Where you start running into issues is if you add both lift and oversized tires. Then the CV angles + torque can kill them faster. Some go with Porsche 930 CVs or Syncro 16 CVs when pushing things harder.

Ground clearance vs. drivability:

As you mentioned, bigger tires often do more for clearance than a small suspension lift. Downside is gearing and rubbing.

Lifting does improve approach/departure angles, but it also makes handling a bit more top-heavy.

If you’re just looking for a bit more clearance for trails and not building a rock crawler, a modest spring lift + good tires is usually the sweet spot. Stock CVs should be fine as long as they’re in good condition, and you keep up on maintenance.

I have a stock-ish syncro. Here is what I would do:
Large tires. This keeps you CV Axle the same.
Underbody Armor.
Then I'd go use it and maintain it.
If you really need to blow money, then re-gear it.

Oh and if you insist on taking this path let me show you where it ends:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khGlWEaLi7c

https://www.instagram.com/p/DF-UjliO_sH/

https://www.instagram.com/p/C00K2ZQu_MJ/

[JS2]

@ swissarmychainsaw

Thanks a lot for your detailed answer. Is there any way to tell if the van has already been lifted? Since the shocks and springs were replaced and it already sits quite high, I’m starting to wonder.

For now, I think I’ll leave it as it is and plan on investing in a proper lift kit with springs, shocks, and CVs when they eventually need replacing.

Thanks again for your help!

[Christopher Schimke]