Hazet Assistent

[panicman]

If you zoom, the last two photos show the discoloration gradually diminishing. Took another dunk in the plating bucket, but I am finally ok with this one:

Also, using the cold galvanizing spray won't work on the uprights for these carts. It's too matte, and it scrapes and rubs right off. So, I polished all of it off and used stainless polish with steel wool. They actually look really nice and shiny. I'll polish them again.

I also found earlier where that rubber grommet goes! Here it is on mine:

[panicman]

At this point I have cleaned, re-plated, polished, and restored all of the hardware for my 161. I re-painted the trim for the bumpers, so that's ready. The tub and shelves should be done tomorrow from the sandblaster.

I am still waiting for all the paint to ship. Also, I ordered rubber from Hazet for the shelves, and the order is still "processing".

A pause while I wait for shit to arrive.

[panicman]

Hoping that rsbadura is still following.

If so, 2 questions-

I ordered the RAL light grey when I ordered the light blue. During disassembly, I noticed that the upper work tray on my 161 appears to be finished in a flaked silver finish. I purchased nearly identical flaked silver paint.

I want to confirm: which is more correct for an early 1960's 161?

Lastly, is there a code for the yellow Hazet script, or is it just an eyeball to get as close as possible?

[rsbadura]

Hello,

[panicman]

Thanks again.

My silver top looks identical to oldmanvw's, so I think that the hammered silver finish is closer to "correct". I prefer the white aluminum, and I even ordered a can of it, so it's a real temptation to use it.

[panicman]

Making progress. I got my paintable parts all back from the sandblaster.

He did a great job masking off the aluminum hardware.

I followed suit when I sprayed the silver finish.

Friday night I painted the work top, and spent Saturday on the cart parts.

I am still waiting for the cobalt and yellow paints. I am letting these parts hang for a week or so to fully cure before I attempt to mask and recreate the logo.

A stroke of good luck- I found a braking caster that is intact. It is en route now, and when it arrives I will replate it. One rubber bumper has arrived, still waiting on the second one, due in about two weeks.

My order from Hazet for 2 bumpers is in purgatory. No status updates and it's been nearly 3 weeks.

[panicman]

After letting the paint cure on the middle shelf and tub, I am not satisfied with the sheen, and the paint coverage seems too light. I ordered 2 more cans in full gloss, and will probably get those in a couple weeks.

I did mount the bumper rubber and trim to the work top, and I'm pleased.

[indianpeaksjoe]

KC Tools is stocking Assistents now. I probably don't need one.

-Joe
_________________
Adventures in owning a 66 beetle

[panicman]

Me neither... now I have two of them.....

Still waiting on the RAL light blue and I can make some progress.

[panicman]

For the purposes of updating, I have finished the work top. All parts have been zinc plated and polished. I also received a new braking caster which I stripped and replated.

Also received the rubber bumper for the middle shelf.

The holdup now is the glossy light blue paint to finish the tub and middle shelf, which I painted weeks ago, but 2 cans didn't provide enough coverage.

[rsbadura]

Hello everybody,

beside my HAZET 100 - large tool cabinet from around 1970-1976
(see https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10102881#10102881)

I have now two rare miniatures as old promotional items:
HAZET packs of 6 razor blades (1965-1969): "now ice-hardened stainless" (German: "jetzt eisgehärtet rostfrei").
From the outside it is a large tool cabinet 100, recognizable by its chrome trim and handles, while from the inside it is only a small tool cabinet 110, recognizable by the drawn tool assortment and missing drawers. There are 3 razor blades in each door. Very rare today, back then it was more of a consumable.

Sometime between 1952 and 1965, there were other, simpler razor blade giveaways packaged in rectangular paper booklets with motifs such as the 430 socket wrenches, 450 wrenches, the 450 Remscheid holder, or the 760 pliers, a set of 900/916/900Z ratchets and sockets. Unfortunately, I don't have any of these (not yet ).

For the Assistent I have some promotional items, but I guess there are more over the 7 decades:

The only current Assistent item in the fan shop is a 167-3 simple cart:
https://www.hazet-fanshop.de/FOR-FANS/Service-trolley-model::896253395.html?language=en

regards,
_________________
Rolf-Stephan Badura
1970 VW Karmann-Ghia Coupe
1979 VW Bus L camper conversion
1982 Eriba Pan travel trailer
2017 VW CrossPolo
HAZET classic tools collection

[panicman]

At long last I got my new paint, and after scuffing and cleaning, I gave the Hazet a glossier finish. This looks much better. I let it cure for nearly a week, and now I can start the logo.

I carefully masked off the Hazet pressing, and have given it a coat of the cobalt blue.

I'll let this cure for several more days and then remove the masking.

@rsbadura, any tips for applying the yellow paint to the logo frame and letters?

I have planed to carefully trim painters tape and mask around the letters, but the pressing is tall enough, perhaps just a smooth foam roller would work? How did you do it?

[rsbadura]

[panicman]

That's what I feared...

Well, I'll probably play around with a couple techniques, and if I have to I'll follow suit and try not to chug so much coffee before doing so.

[panicman]

I finished my early 1960's 161 restoration today.

I used the RAL paint codes for this project, and all metal parts were stripped and refinished, as originally, in zinc. The metal tubular uprights maintained a surprisingly bright finish that polished well. New rubber was ordered from Hazet. Old rubber was refinished in silver. Wheels were needled to remove ground in contaminants and refinished with Ballistol. Logos were restored with RAL paint codes.

[panicman]

To help anyone who might be interested in doing this, I'll tell how I did the logo and script. This was the most nerve racking step in the restoration. You're doing detail work over fresh enamel paint, so cleaning up smudges risks marring the base coats.

I hadn't done any detail painting like this prior, so I went to YouTube. I watched hours of vintage license plate panting, and felt like I got the gist, and also learned about the special brushes used for lettering.

On FB, I watched a guy do the black "Assistent" script using only a foam brush, and a thousand soft dabs. (I tried, and this didn't work for me).

I ended up using 3 tools. I shelled out some coin for 3 Mack 179L lettering brushes, sizes 4,3,0. I practiced with all of them on a junk license plate, along with a small foam brush.

I wound up going with the smallest 179L for most of my work on the logo. I'll get into why later.

I tried the foam brush, and had mixed results- it does make it easy to apply the paint with nice straight lines, and very little hand movement. But, it applies the thin paint in tiny blotches, and it's really easy with the wide tip to overshoot your target and paint the background.

The paint that is used by talented restorers on YouTube is special paint that they use additives in right before they work. Their years of experience just wins out, and they know how to mix their finishes to have good coverage, smooth and even flow, and ease of use.

I ordered the RAL paint code and i got what I got- a decent but very thin paint designed for fine touch up, not for sign painting. I learned immediately that I would have to use two coats at least.

Here's the practice plate. The "8" was done with a first coat using the foam brush, and the second coat using a lettering brush. The other digits were done with the different sizes of brush, and I quickly figured out I would do the least damage with the smallest brush, the 0.

I also practiced with the cobalt paint on the dark digits. To do this I sprayed the RAL cobalt into a cup and used the brush to practice.

Time to rip off the band aid, I plunged in. I tried using the foam brush first to get a thin first coat on the parts of the yellow logo. This got messy, but I forged on. I did a second pass with the Mack 0, and decided that was the way to go- way cleaner and much nicer for getting more paint to flow like you'd expect. Fewer errors.

I think you can see mistakes in this one if you zoom.

I flipped the tub over and just worked with the brush. Far fewer errors. Much better application, and I got the hang of creating crisp edges.

I flipped the tub back over, and the paint was pretty dry to the touch. I grabbed a fine generic brush that came to a very small point, and used that to carefully clean up any messy edges and paint that overshot my targets, with a topcoat of the cobalt blue (I hid my yellow errors).

Trying to wipe is a no-go. When you apply the enamel over another color, it softens the base coat. Plus, the spaces are too tight to get into.

I tried the foam brush on the Assistant script, and I didn't do well. With the Mack 0, it went much better. I had to clean up some smudging from the foam brush, and to do that I used the fine point brush and some of the RAL light blue that I sprayed into a cup.

I used a printed image of the logo to doublecheck my work, because it's really hard to make out the stamped edges once you have contrasting colors in place.

I hope this helps anyone who decides to take a stab at this.

A little note- the Mack brushes are natural squirrel hair. To prep them, you need to rinse them in mineral spirits, and then dip and soak them in transmission fluid. This is how you store them. When ready to paint, rinse with mineral spirits, spin them dry, and get to painting.

[rsbadura]

Hello again,

new rare arrivals - still need to be restored:
1x HAZET 160-2 480 mm long slotted profile rail (for dividing the long side in the shelves, not possible at versions after 1982 as 162 N or 166 N)
3x HAZET 160-5 150 mm short divider plate (2x required to divide the short side of the shelf across)
They are from a HAZET Assistent 162 manufactured ~1965-1972. There are neither logos nor article numbers visible on them.
Therefore, they are difficult to find individually - or difficult to buy out of the few offers that include them in tool trolleys.

The 160-6 divider plate is usually included up to 8 times with Assistents.
Now I still need to find the 160-1 across and the long 160-7 lengthwise.

regards from Berlin Germany, wishing you a Merry Christmas!

_________________
Rolf-Stephan Badura
1970 VW Karmann-Ghia Coupe
1979 VW Bus L camper conversion
1982 Eriba Pan travel trailer
2017 VW CrossPolo
HAZET classic tools collection

[panicman]

Great find! Merry Christmas!