DCOE Guys, I need your assistance please

[slayer61]

So after much frustration with pushrod seals, that battle is behind me now.

I have a DCOE 45 on my draw through turbo. It has been to Car Craft to be modified for turbo use and overhauled. Now I got some crap ethanol gas or some other crap in it, and the accelerator pump plunger is sticking, making it difficult to start.

TLDR version: how do I remove the accelerator pump plunger from the well it lives in before I go ham fisted and just pry it out?
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[chrisflstf]

https://www.alfabb.com/threads/accelerator-pump-removal-dcoe.150827/

[slayer61]

Thank you Sir,
Perhaps I have miss-phrased the question... how does the retaining clip come out? Just pry it? Squeeze it with needle nose pliers?
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[chrisflstf]

Small flat blade screwdriver. Gently is the word.

[slayer61]

Perfect. Thank you Sir. Much appreciated
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[slayer61]

Good afternoon gentlemen.
The buggy is getting much closer, but I'm still in need of some guidance regarding the idle circuit. Keeping in mind that this 45 DCOE 152 is being used in a draw through turbo application.....

The carb currently has:
32 mm vents
F9-65 idle jets
145 main jets
180 air
F11 emulsion tubes
70 pump jets
And the mixture screws are 4 turns out.

I understand 4 turns seems like a lot, but the 152 carburetor people want me to start at 3 turns out

The afr display indicates that it is still lean at idle. I'm not opposed to buying more jets and continuing down the road until the Afr comes down to something more suitable. I just don't want to go chasing down the rabbit hole

Thanks again guys
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[BFB]

I wouldn't worry about what AFR is at idle , worry about what it is through the rpm's and under boost
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"how am i supposed to torque the rear wheel nut to 250 ft lbs??? " - clonebug
An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
Most experts aren't.

[slayer61]

[BFB]

[slayer61]

This is really puzzling....

The afr is reading dead lean at idle, and because I'm still pretty old school, I pulled a plug. It's pig rich. I think my lean reading is coming from my waste gate. (I have them mounted directly across from each other)

This morning I removed the waste gate and sure enough, there's a gap between the valve and the seat. It is NEVER all the way closed. Even pushing the diaphragm won't close the valve.

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[chrisflstf]

Is that simply a bad wastegate? Do they typically go bad often?

[67rustavenger]

Paul,
You're gonna need to disassemble and clean the BOV. They get carboned up and stick slightly open from time to time.

If cleaning it doesn't cure the slightly open issue. You may need to install a stiffer spring.

Do you have vacuum lines controlling the BOV? If so, check for leaking vacuum lines affecting the valve closure.
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I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!
2003 Astrovan? GFYS again, Xevin!
Don't let your bad ideas remain, ideas!

[slayer61]

The valve moves freely. It comes to a dead, solid stop and just doesn't close
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[slayer61]

Sunday afternoon update:
The waste gate has been removed and a blank plate fitted. That's right, no boost controller. With the provided f8-55 idle jets, and some twisting of the mixture screws I was able to get a solid, stable 1000 rpm idle at 14:1 on the afr.

That's progress, right?

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[BFB]

answers your question about a leaking wastegate, id move that AFR sensor post turbo
_________________
"how am i supposed to torque the rear wheel nut to 250 ft lbs??? " - clonebug
An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
Most experts aren't.

[slayer61]