Novice jacking up a 914

[dlindzey]

I am trying to change the oil and obviously need to elevate the car. Ramps dont work as exhaust tip is in the way. I get a little confused with all the jack point talk, where to jack and where to put jack stands and not a lot of pictures out there. As I crawl around on my creeper, I note the four circles with center holes at the corners of where the cab meets the chasis and assumme that these are the donuts referenced in some of the posts.
I am a little leery of jacking one side up then the other and wonder if it is acceptable and safe to just get two floor jacks and use the rear donuts on both sides and jack the rear up simultaneously and just leave them in place instead of using the jack stands or is this suicidal? Any good pictures or landmarks as to where to put the jacks instead of on the donuts so that the jack stands have a place for deployment? If 4 jackstands are used on the donuts it sure seems like an awkward balance. thanks in advance for you advice

[zerotofifty]

I lift mine on the tail end of the transmission. make sure you do not lift on the shift mechanism as found on the early style transmissions.
I pad the transmission so the floor jack wont mar the transmission paint
I them use two jackstands on the trailing arm cylindrical sections on the inboard sides of the trailing arms, I find this much more secure than the body donuts. Been doing it this way for near 30 years, so do my 914 owner friends.
I block the front tires, and give the 914 a good shake test before going under. I leave the floor jack in place also.

Caution, the nut that secures the sump plate must NEVER be over tightened, NEVER!!!!! Get the torque right. It is VERY delicate, if you over torque it, the internal part it threads onto will snap off, and that is part of the engine case, you will have destroyed your engine. This nut MUST be secured very gently, the torque specification is VERY LOW!!!!! You can easily snap,it off and wreck the engine case even with a short handled wrench. USE EXTREME CARE!!!!

DANGER!!!!!!!
SPECIFICATION FOR THE SUMP PLATE NUT IS 9.4 FT LBS That is it, only 9.4 ft lbs!!!!!!! Nine point four. You snap it off and the engine is done, only fix is complete engine disassembly and welding, or a new case. The drain plug (not the sump plate nut, but rather the drain plug) is 15.9 ft lbs. dont mix these values up! I never use the drain plug, I always drain from the sump plate, as I like to clean the screen above the sump plate each time. use of new paper gaskets on the sump plate, and crush washer on the sump plate nut will prevent leaks, you may reuse them sometimes without leaks, but if it does leak, do NOT try to fix the leak with over torquing that sump plate nut

Consider adding some strong tiny magnets to inside the sump plate, under the screen assembly for added filtration. Just stick them to the steel sump plate

High zinc oil is recommended for these engines
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