New to me 72 Super

[PiperFixer]

[PiperFixer]

[Blue Baron]

Just normal refresh stuff.

I forgot to say how much I like the car!
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We are striving for perfection, to make our cars run forever, if possible.

Heinz Nordhoff

[PiperFixer]

[PiperFixer]

New questions... What's wrong here besides my fuel line situation? The PO installed this carb and it looks like the cheap 34 from jbugs. Is this carb trash? The car runs 'OK' but I haven't checked valves or timing yet. I dont love this air cleaner either. Going to replace it with the shorter one. Seems like it got crushed a little? Also I'm going to get a longer oil breather line to actually connect to the air cleaner.

[toddgsanford]

That is a beautiful example of the 72 Super Appears to be original paint as well. Volksbitz would be the go to to for a perfect Pict 34. suggest finding the correct Air cleaner in classifieds to keep it all original. Before throwing tons of suspension parts at it get it in the air and check the left and right inner fender panels against the fire wall. This is the Achilles heal on Supers. IF these are not solid no amount of new parts will make a difference. Top line parts is your GO to for any Suspension parts. 72 may have Either type lower control arm so make yourself familiar with these. The car sat for a long time Suggest cleaning every ground on the car. Love to see it when one of these survives.

[PiperFixer]

I do have the stock air cleaner. It does not fit on this carb unfortunately.

Looks like this...

[agramer1966]

Great bug, nice to see one in this condition. I plan to have mine done in this color. 👍
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1966 VW1300
1973 VW1302
1979 924
1984 924
Bunch of old Jap motorbikes
Instagram & YT: #agrameroldoctane

[kpf]

That oil-bath air cleaner is not from a '72. The little bracket sticking up to hold the end of a cable to operate the pre-heat valve marks it as a ~1968 (someone correct me). That might be why it won't fit on a 34-pict. I think the 34 came along in 70 or 71 (?).

I believe the '72 air cleaner has a vacuum operated thermostat to operate the pre-heat valve. It has distinctive double vacuum hoses on top, like this:

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1971 Super Beetle

[PiperFixer]

Thanks. I pulled that photo at random off the web. I'll have to get a shot of my actual air cleaner but I'm sure the top is sealed off where the two hoses are attached in your photo. Are the small round air cleaners that bad??

[PiperFixer]

New shift coupler. Old one was pretty worn out.

[PiperFixer]

Almost two years in and I decided it's finally time. Running on 3 cylinders and oil leaking from basically everywhere. Got new 88 thick walled cylinders and new machined CB heads for a mild upgrade. I'll be happy if I can reuse the crank. Everything else internal I expect to replace.

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Orange 72 Super
A&P IA

[PiperFixer]

Got this old style pressure plate. It's got a pretty bad groove worn in from the clutch disc rivets so will replaced with an updated plate. Was hoping I wouldn't have to oh well.

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Orange 72 Super
A&P IA

[PiperFixer]

Progress...No horrible cracks immediately obvious. Crank looks ok aside from staining, will measure for wear. No spun bearings or any mystery metal in the sump.

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Orange 72 Super
A&P IA

[Rob Combs]

Somehow this entire thread has eluded me until today. Nice car! I had a 73 Super the same color. Still miss that car.

As to your questions about the air cleaner, yes, the factory will provide far better driveability than the chrome replacements. The big thing the chrome filters don't help with is carb heat. And carb heat is needed, even in warmer areas like yours. Going back to the stock* air cleaner, in addition to replacing the thermostat and flaps that had been stripped out, made massive improvements in driveability on mine, with an aftermarket carb. (*Mostly stock air cleaner - I gutted the oil bath part to put in a modern cone filter, but it's a Ghia so a little different than yours).

While you have it all apart be sure to clean out the tube throught the intake manifold that runs between the heat risers on the exhaust. They get carboned up really bad under the carb because whatever particles are in the exhaust recondense under the cold carb and plug the tube.

Questions about the carb itself - some will tell you that carb will never run right, others will tell you it will be fine. It varies, so don't necessarily throw it out just yet. The thermostat, intake manifold tube, and air cleaner situation can cause just as many if not more driveability issues as the carb itself.

Your engine looks a little sludgy - hopefully the black lines in your main bearing saddles are just part of the sludge buildup and not evidence of the mains being pounded into the bearing saddles. Clean it up really good and let us know if you want any pointers to inspect for bearing saddle pounding.

You also have a golden opportunity to really put it back together precisely, and in doing so can enhance performance quite a surprising amount. Do they do smog testing in your zip code, and if so is your car exempt?

Now I'm off to split my case this morning, in one of those grey service carts just as you've done.

Best of luck to you.

[PiperFixer]

[viiking]

There are reasons for specifications. If the crank is out even on one journal then replace it or get it machined. It won’t miraculously improve. Bearing clearance will be increased, lower oil pressure etc.
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1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3

[PiperFixer]

[PiperFixer]

Since the engine is out, I'm replacing the tar boards and engine bay seals. Chipping away at the death foam etc. Found an ancient colony of mud daubers.

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Orange 72 Super
A&P IA

[PiperFixer]

Crank gears installed. Toaster oven at 350 for 35 minutes and they slid right on.

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Orange 72 Super
A&P IA