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Rome
Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2004
Posts: 10751
Location: Pearl River, NY
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 Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 6:41 am Post subject: Re: 83mm 1500cc piston/cylinder question |
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| aquifer wrote: |
I need to replace the oil pump.
We found a “heavy duty” pump at CB Performance for 6mm studs. Says the gears are 1/4” longer than stock, so probably about 27mm-ish vs 21mm that mine are.
Here are my questions/concerns:
2. Are my studs long enough for the bigger pump? The description claims it bolts right in. Hmm. Not sure about that…does anyone know? |
You can measure this yourself on your case. Place your original oil pump case into either case half so that the 2 studs protrude through the 2 holes of the pump. Push your original metal oil pump cover over the pump and the 2 studs. Press the cover & pump firmly against the case. Use a metric ruler or vernier caliper set to millimeters and measure how much stud "height" is exposed beyond the cover. Let's say 10 mm, which allows for grippage on the threads for the original M6 fastening nuts. Most replacement pumps are 26 mm gear thickness/height which is also directly transferred to the new pump case.
So- after your measurement, determine there is still enough threads to grip the nuts after the 5 mm thicker pump housing. You still want 2-3 exposed threads beyond the outer face of the nut for secure fitting. So: 10 mm stud length - 5 mm (pump thickness) - 3 mm exposed threads would not allow enough for the nut grippage. |
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aquifer 
Samba Member
Joined: August 30, 2021
Posts: 457
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 7:47 am Post subject: Re: 83mm 1500cc piston/cylinder question |
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Good call, the studs definitely wouldn’t be long enough. I should have thought of checking it that way. I’d have to use longer studs.
Probably a silly question, but is the extra “bigness” of the bigger oil pumps all on the outside of the engine case? In other words, the pump body doesn’t stick deeper into the case, it’s just thicker on the outside of the case? So the ports on the pump line up with the ports in the case regardless of which pump you use?
I’m leaning toward a stock 21mm Schadek pump that I found at Dune Buggy Warehouse. With the engine overhaul and thorough oil galley cleaning that I’m doing, the engine should have good oil pressure from the stock size pump. Also, I read that bigger pumps in a single relief case like mine can sometimes cause a leak at the oil cooler upon cold starting from too much pressure. Later dual relief cases alleviated that problem. It makes sense for me to stick with a new 21mm pump with what I’m trying to accomplish, so I think that’s what I’ll do.
_________________
Project vehicles:
1967 Beetle #1. Bought in 2024, mostly original, October 1966 build date. Java Green.
1967 Beetle #2. Bought in the mid 80's, restored myself in the late 90's, June 1967 build date. Java Green.
1998 Jaguar XJR. Bought in 2015, rust free AZ car, refurbished myself. Driven in nice weather.
Parts needed:
Original brown rubber floor mats for a '67
Original gazelle seat upholstery for a ‘67 |
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glutamodo
The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26632
Location: Douglas, WY
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| Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 8:58 am Post subject: Re: 83mm 1500cc piston/cylinder question |
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I thought I posted about the oil pump, maybe I gave up before finishing it.
Yeah, and if you look at the listing (not in stock right now though) at Wolfsburg West, they sell the 26mm pump with longer studs.
Oil pumps work (this is a real basic way of describing it) by the surface area of the gears turning squishing the oil, so to get more volume, you make the gears longer. Diameter is the same, they are just 5mm longer gears and the housing is longer to match. Now, "detailing" the oil pump will make it so the oil flows in and out of it more efficiently.
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Andy T.
"What is Glutamodo, Horror of Toyko, besides total, fiendish, quality-a-you brain!" |
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Rome
Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2004
Posts: 10751
Location: Pearl River, NY
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| Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 10:19 am Post subject: Re: 83mm 1500cc piston/cylinder question |
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| aquifer wrote: |
| I need to replace the oil pump. The pump is original, the tab that goes in the camshaft is worn pretty badly, |
The tab can be adjusted for depth, both in and out of the drive gear. If the wear on your tab was mostly on one side, likely the tab was not inserted fully into the cam groove. Prepare your bench vise to about a fist's width. Take a 6 mm socket and place its nose against the rear face of the tab. Find a larger socket which fits over the other end of the tab and sits flat against the front of the gear. Get those 3 pieces into the vice. When you tighten the vise jaws, you'll hear a POP and the tab will have moved a small distance frontwards- increasing the insertion depth into the groove.
Paraphrased from GeneBerg instructions. |
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Rome
Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2004
Posts: 10751
Location: Pearl River, NY
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| Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 10:46 am Post subject: Re: 83mm 1500cc piston/cylinder question |
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| Quote: |
| 4. He highly recommends removing the oil galley plugs and cleaning out the galleys with solvent and brushes. He’s a very good engine builder (but doesn’t do VW’s) and he said he would very much recommend it. You can get threaded galley plugs online, which would require tapping. This doesn’t terrify me, and my buddy thinks it’s no big deal at all for the peace of mind it provides by getting the galleys clean. What say you about removing the galley plugs? |
I also have some early cases which need to be cleaned out in the galleys, best done by removing the individual plugs. But I've never done that yet. You can easily find threads here on how to remove them; sometimes as simple as using a dent puller with a screw head, drilling the plug, and giving the puller weight a hard pull rearwards.
I've also read that the easily available color anodized aluminum replacement galley plugs should be avoided; use brass ones instead. The threads for the plug holes which you need to tap are standard tapered plumbing sizes, though I don't know exactly which ones.
Once you have the old plugs out, you have a straight shot through the galleys with both high pressure washer nozzle and a rifle barrel cleaning (e.g., Harbor Freight). If you don't remove the plugs, any grit or sludge which has accumulated against the inside of the plugs over the decades will likely not be fully flushed out.
I give an initial clean-out to the galleys using my basement laundry sink, onto which I attached a short garden hose to the spigot end and a squeeze handle water pistol on the other. On the end of the pistol I found a plastic nozzle reducer from the gardening section of HW store. This enables holding the nozzle tip just inside of the larger oil galley holes. I turn on hot water. I also insert tapered wooden dowels (HW store) into some of the openings of the galleys, such as at the oil cooler, or the crank main galleys. This helps concentrate the water into sections of the galley. This process can create lots of overspray so wear clothes which can get wet. If you put a drain plug into the laundry sink before you start, when you're done with each galley flush you can see the dirt that came out collected in the sink. |
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aquifer
Samba Member
Joined: August 30, 2021
Posts: 457
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2025 3:05 pm Post subject: Re: 83mm 1500cc piston/cylinder question |
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A quick update on this project:
My engine machine shop buddy removed the oil galley plugs and tapped the holes for threaded plugs. Then he cleaned the galleys and put the engine in his parts washer machine. The case looks great!
FWIW, I HIGHLY recommend removing the plugs to clean the oil galleys when you rebuild an engine. The amount of gunk that came out was impressive. It was everywhere, but it was really visible near the plugs themselves when he pulled them out. I don't suppose all of the gunk would have ended up in the bearings, but some of it would have been jarred loose from the work and would have flowed directly to the bearings if we hadn't pulled the galley plugs. Good to know that it's clean as a whistle now. The oil galleys in the crankshaft were full of gunk too.
Today he's machining and honing the rods to restore the correct length. They are slightly elongated, but they're in good shape and it's an easy fix with the right equipment. New rod bearings and bushings are ready.
I'm soaking up knowledge like a sponge. Good stuff!
_________________
Project vehicles:
1967 Beetle #1. Bought in 2024, mostly original, October 1966 build date. Java Green.
1967 Beetle #2. Bought in the mid 80's, restored myself in the late 90's, June 1967 build date. Java Green.
1998 Jaguar XJR. Bought in 2015, rust free AZ car, refurbished myself. Driven in nice weather.
Parts needed:
Original brown rubber floor mats for a '67
Original gazelle seat upholstery for a ‘67 |
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aquifer
Samba Member
Joined: August 30, 2021
Posts: 457
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2025 5:53 pm Post subject: Re: 83mm 1500cc piston/cylinder question |
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I got the bottom end reassembled. It turns buttery smooth! It went pretty well, but I want to make sure I didn’t forget to install something before I move on.
Let me know what I might have missed inside the case. I still have a lot of work to do, but if I need to split the case because I forgot to do something, now is the time!
1. Distributor drive gear is timed correctly, and the end play is fine. Two shims are installed at the base.
2. All 8 cam followers are in place.
3. The cam gear and crank gear are timed correctly with the right dot alignment.
4. O-rings are installed around the 6 big case studs
5. Cam plug is installed.
6. I used a thin coat of Permatex Aviation on the case seam (one side only).
7. I used Driven assembly oil on the bearings and camshaft bushings, and I used Driven assembly grease on the cam lobes and followers. I’ll be using Driven break in oil.
I have several small O-rings left from the gasket kit I bought. I realize it’s a universal kit, so they might not even be for my engine. There were no similar O-rings inside the case when I took it apart. Still, I keep thinking I missed something. As #4 says, the main O-rings are installed on the big studs.
Here’s a picture of the assembled case.
_________________
Project vehicles:
1967 Beetle #1. Bought in 2024, mostly original, October 1966 build date. Java Green.
1967 Beetle #2. Bought in the mid 80's, restored myself in the late 90's, June 1967 build date. Java Green.
1998 Jaguar XJR. Bought in 2015, rust free AZ car, refurbished myself. Driven in nice weather.
Parts needed:
Original brown rubber floor mats for a '67
Original gazelle seat upholstery for a ‘67 |
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glutamodo
The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26632
Location: Douglas, WY
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aquifer
Samba Member
Joined: August 30, 2021
Posts: 457
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2025 7:21 pm Post subject: Re: 83mm 1500cc piston/cylinder question |
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This project is coming along nicely. Here are a couple of pictures. I kept it wrapped in an engine bag to keep everything clean between the times I could work on it. Tons of reading and studying, searching the forum. Hopefully it runs when I get it done!
Next is the rocker arms and then the tinwork.
_________________
Project vehicles:
1967 Beetle #1. Bought in 2024, mostly original, October 1966 build date. Java Green.
1967 Beetle #2. Bought in the mid 80's, restored myself in the late 90's, June 1967 build date. Java Green.
1998 Jaguar XJR. Bought in 2015, rust free AZ car, refurbished myself. Driven in nice weather.
Parts needed:
Original brown rubber floor mats for a '67
Original gazelle seat upholstery for a ‘67 |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 33445
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2025 6:56 am Post subject: Re: 83mm 1500cc piston/cylinder question |
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| aquifer wrote: |
| This project is coming along nicely. Here are a couple of pictures. |
Nice.
Good time to triple check that the little tins are between the cylinders above the pushrod tubes.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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aquifer
Samba Member
Joined: August 30, 2021
Posts: 457
Location: Nebraska
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| Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2025 8:01 am Post subject: Re: 83mm 1500cc piston/cylinder question |
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| Cusser wrote: |
| aquifer wrote: |
| This project is coming along nicely. Here are a couple of pictures. |
Nice.
Good time to triple check that the little tins are between the cylinders above the pushrod tubes. |
Believe it or not, I remembered to install them! I had them cleaned up and laying close by to reduce the odds that I'd forget them.
_________________
Project vehicles:
1967 Beetle #1. Bought in 2024, mostly original, October 1966 build date. Java Green.
1967 Beetle #2. Bought in the mid 80's, restored myself in the late 90's, June 1967 build date. Java Green.
1998 Jaguar XJR. Bought in 2015, rust free AZ car, refurbished myself. Driven in nice weather.
Parts needed:
Original brown rubber floor mats for a '67
Original gazelle seat upholstery for a ‘67 |
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