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Official lazy person's stupid question thread
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jimf909
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2025 9:27 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

do.dah wrote:
All good,, but I'm really partial to 'Joy'. Joy cleans and degreases way better than Dawn...


Joy works better with dino oils while Dawn is far better with synthetics.
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Butcher wrote:
This is the main fault with DIY'ers, they get together on these forums and pat themselves on their backs spreading bad information.
Guilty as charged.

Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.
Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro).
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Camper_Velourium
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2025 8:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Ok. I simply ran out of daylight and non rainy time to wrench but got a funky one I'm going to dig into further tomorrow:

Was doing my front bearings, rotor, brake pads. On the right I got it all together and went to have my lovely assistant pump the brakes for bleeding aaand: not a drop coming out of either bleed port. ATE calipers. Brakes functioned fine before, brake pedal has resistance like everything is good even with the bleed ports opened and/or fully removed...

Unfortunately right as I was discovering this it started raining heavily and I had to button it up so couldn't look closer.
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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 9:33 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Camper_Velourium wrote:
Ok. I simply ran out of daylight and non rainy time to wrench but got a funky one I'm going to dig into further tomorrow:

Was doing my front bearings, rotor, brake pads. On the right I got it all together and went to have my lovely assistant pump the brakes for bleeding aaand: not a drop coming out of either bleed port. ATE calipers. Brakes functioned fine before, brake pedal has resistance like everything is good even with the bleed ports opened and/or fully removed...

Unfortunately right as I was discovering this it started raining heavily and I had to button it up so couldn't look closer.

How old are your brake flex hoses? They have a known failure mode of leaks between internal layers causing fluid blockage under pedal pressure. That wouldn’t explain them working fine until recently, however…

Short of new hoses &/or rebuilding calipers, have you tried just gravity bleeding? Without touching the pedal, open the fluid reservoir, open the bleeder & see what happens. If the hoses are bad, it may take some time for bad hoses to release pressure, but something should happen.

Keep us posted, report back.

- Dave
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Camper_Velourium
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 9:42 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

They are... old. Externally they seem fine but obviously it's what's inside that counts. The van is new to me, original owner was quite old and did regular maintenance until she parked in in the 00s

That didn't cross my mind as being the issue because removing the caliper had fluid freely dripping ou of the line, but if it blocks under pressure that could be a culprit. I'll remove the caliper and see if it doesn't flow out of the line under braking. Or actually that might not work because there's no pressure with the caliper off. Should probably just replace the flex lines for peace of mind.

Edit: by the brakes "working fine"I mean they functioned to stop the vehicle. They left a lot to be desired, mushy pedal and poor performance.i ran through the rear which had what appeared to be almost unused new shoes before being parked, and weeping wheel cylinders which I replaced. Then bled. Pedal performance felt great after that before I got to the fronts.


Last edited by Camper_Velourium on Sat Nov 15, 2025 10:08 am; edited 1 time in total
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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 9:48 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

FWIW, you could remove the hose at the hard line on the body, see if you get pressure flow from there.

At this point, it’s worth replacing the hoses just as maintenance. Keep on it…

- Dave
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Camper_Velourium
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 10:11 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

dhaavers wrote:
FWIW, you could remove the hose at the hard line on the body, see if you get pressure flow from there.

At this point, it’s worth replacing the hoses just as maintenance. Keep on it…

- Dave


Yeah I just ordered some,I was going to originally but got lost in the ordering of literally everything else to try and get this thing road worthy again lol.

Also see edit on previous post about what I meant about brake performance.

I'm still going to poke around with the calipers after work today and see what I see though.
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nilbog
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2025 6:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Trying to install a new TDI starter to my vanagon using an adapter, and of course trying to get it back there I dropped it. I filed it as smooth as possible, but should I use it or chalk it up to a lost few hundred dollars?

Thanks
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bobbyblack Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2025 6:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Uhhh, is the shaft bent? Cosmic stuff, likely no, shove it in, test 30 times, clear. But, that nosedive might have bent the shaft a tiny amount. If it works now, good, but you could have a near future reality to face.
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do.dah
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2025 7:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Does the starter have a sticker on it saying something like; 'Do not hit starter with a hammer.'? Seems to me, alot of new generation starters do not tolerate being hit/dropped, unlike the old timey starters, where if they jammed, you tap them with a hammer to get them to unjam.
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AndyBees
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2025 8:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Test it before installing it .......

If it works, install it and motor on!
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Camper_Velourium
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2025 12:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

I feel like I've read about a million words on all things brake related. But I'm blanking on parking brake set up. Once drums are adjusted, do you do most of the parking adjustments at the splitter (or whatever it's called?)

When I picked up the van it had a very solid second click which fully engaged the brake, can't even muscle a third click. I'd prefer to have it in the usual 3-5 range.
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bobbyblack Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2025 1:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Camper_Velourium wrote:
I feel like I've read about a million words on all things brake related. But I'm blanking on parking brake set up. Once drums are adjusted, do you do most of the parking adjustments at the splitter (or whatever it's called?)

When I picked up the van it had a very solid second click which fully engaged the brake, can't even muscle a third click. I'd prefer to have it in the usual 3-5 range.


I hear lots of folks say full on at 3. Mine is full on at 6, and I should probably make it no more than 4. Ya, one nut at the yoke.

oops, Equalizer...


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1463438.jpg


-bobby
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fxr
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2025 1:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

bobbyblack wrote:
Camper_Velourium wrote:
I feel like I've read about a million words on all things brake related. But I'm blanking on parking brake set up. Once drums are adjusted, do you do most of the parking adjustments at the splitter (or whatever it's called?)

When I picked up the van it had a very solid second click which fully engaged the brake, can't even muscle a third click. I'd prefer to have it in the usual 3-5 range.


I hear lots of folks say full on at 3. Mine is full on at 6, and I should probably make it no more than 4. Ya, one nut at the yoke.

oops, Equalizer...


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1463438.jpg


-bobby

Surely one should adjust at the adjusters in each drum brake, rather than tweak the equaliser? Unless the cables to each brake are very new, they shouldn't be stretching any more. 30-40 year old ones, certainly not!
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2025 2:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

fxr wrote:


Surely one should adjust at the adjusters in each drum brake, rather than tweak the equaliser? Unless the cables to each brake are very new, they shouldn't be stretching any more. 30-40 year old ones, certainly not!


Jim,

Not sure if you meant to reference my rig, or the post I was responding to, in which that person mentioned having set up the rears already.

In my case, I replaced all rear components and still have 6 clicks to full on. That is what I was mentioning, personally, but I didn't explicitly say I had done all the rears recently.

Thanks

-bobby
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fxr
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2025 2:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

bobbyblack wrote:

In my case, I replaced all rear components and still have 6 clicks to full on. That is what I was mentioning, personally, but I didn't explicitly say I had done all the rears recently.

Thanks

-bobby
Ah, OK! Smile
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Camper_Velourium
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2025 3:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

fxr wrote:
bobbyblack wrote:
Camper_Velourium wrote:
I feel like I've read about a million words on all things brake related. But I'm blanking on parking brake set up. Once drums are adjusted, do you do most of the parking adjustments at the splitter (or whatever it's called?)

When I picked up the van it had a very solid second click which fully engaged the brake, can't even muscle a third click. I'd prefer to have it in the usual 3-5 range.


I hear lots of folks say full on at 3. Mine is full on at 6, and I should probably make it no more than 4. Ya, one nut at the yoke.

oops, Equalizer...


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1463438.jpg


-bobby

Surely one should adjust at the adjusters in each drum brake, rather than tweak the equaliser? Unless the cables to each brake are very new, they shouldn't be stretching any more. 30-40 year old ones, certainly not!


Few weeks old now but I'm dealing with a new to me van with unknown work done to it previously. Pads were fresh and I replaced the cylinders, once brake was adjusted I was still getting only two clicks, with the second click being quite tight. Operation works fine, but I had read 3-5 clicks was preferred so I was hoping to loosen the parking brake adjustment and just wanted to clarify if that adjustment should be done at the equalizer or somewhere else.

There were more than a couple budget tube and lube receipts in the service history of the van so I am not trusting them to have been thorough and to spec on some of this stuff. So I was assuming someone may have tightened the parking brake overly if they maybe did not readjust the brakes properly after a brake job twenty years ago.



New question, passenger seat is stuck on swivel mode. Lucky there's a ton of resistance to get it to swivel (probably something else I need to address) the lever under the front of the seat appears to do... nothing? This is what controls the swiveling right?

Also is it normal fit the seat control lever on the side to be angled outwards about 45 degrees instead of inline with the seat?
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jimf909
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2025 3:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Camper_Velourium wrote:


New question, passenger seat is stuck on swivel mode. Lucky there's a ton of resistance to get it to swivel (probably something else I need to address) the lever under the front of the seat appears to do... nothing? This is what controls the swiveling right?

Also is it normal fit the seat control lever on the side to be angled outwards about 45 degrees instead of inline with the seat?


Yes, the lever sticking out between your knees under the seat locks the swivel. Try raising while swiveling to see if it will lock.

No, 45 degrees is not normal, it should be roughly parallel to the seat.

Given the stuck swivel you may want to disassemble the swivels, clean them up and reassemble.

Link to removing the seat (finding the small black triangular tab is key:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=229840

Replacement swivel seat bushings will probably help if you want the seat to swivel:
https://gowesty.com/products/swivel-seat-bushing-s...6686279845
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Butcher wrote:
This is the main fault with DIY'ers, they get together on these forums and pat themselves on their backs spreading bad information.
Guilty as charged.

Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.
Past: 1985 Westy Camper - 1.9 wbx, 2wd, manual trans, Merian Brown, (sold after 17 years to Northwesty who converted it to a Syncro).
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bobbyblack Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2025 2:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

How do wing window latches get into the wrong position, so they can't latch? Do I need to beg, borrow or steal a new latch? Would taking the entire wing window out and trade to with another from one of my other buses be the easiest thing to do?

I see posts about knocking the roll pin out, but the one I am looking at seems pretty corroded...

Thanks,

-bobby
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whatwrenchwhere
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2025 3:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Question: Should I remove my driver swivel seat? Am I losing anything?

From the picture below from 1985 brochure, they make it seem like the driver and passenger seat can turn into the middle, and you have a 2 person table. Cool, but is this even useful or possible for anyone?

For me, swiveling the driver seat towards the middle, it runs into the parking brake (can be lowered, if you chalk the wheels), and the armrest hits the lower part of the wheel preventing it from going fully sideways like the picture. And the window has to be down or headrest hits glass. Am I missing something?

I've heard some people say removing the swivel base is also more comfortable for taller people. Is that accurate?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
[/u]

Side question, I would be using the method below to remove, and does anyone have any protips for removal?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWKRkfJkcdE
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bobbyblack Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2025 4:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

The only useful reason I have for the driver swivel is to help remove the seat itself. Otherwise, it's a garbage bit, IMHO
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