Separating body and chassis

[MTT3107]

So, I am getting ready to pull the body from the chassis, started removing all the bolts today.

Caster wheels for the dolly are coming in tomorrow, and then I'll build the dolly.

But ran into an issue with the bolts connecting the body to the chassis.
Got everything out, the 17mm bolts in the back, at the front of the body, and at the front beam.
But 2 of the 13mm bolts under the chassis are just spinning, I suppose the captive nut there broke loose.
What do you do there ? Just cut off the bolt head ?
And what to do with those locations, once the body goes back on ?

[Teeroy]

Cut the head off of them. Once body is off the pan, open them up from the bottom and fix or replace with solid metal and captive nut
_________________
Pres. Rivercity VW Club www.rcvwclub.org
Founder Derr Wheat Panzers (DWP)
ARR #3
www.autosportsnorthwest.org

[Rome]

[MTT3107]

Got it…
Seats are already out, since they need to be re-upholstered.
Shifter is out because I am replacing the shift rod bushing, the original was completely gone.

Engine :
I won’t pull the engine yet…
But yesterday I removed the trunk and deck lids to lighten the body as much as possible, and noticed that with the decklid removed, you can pull the fan shroud easily, as opposed to the beetle.
So I did that, and will also remove the oil cooler and carb & intake manifold.

[MTT3107]

So, I went back to the 2 bolts which were giving me trouble.

Was ready to attack them with the angle grinder, but decided to try again first.
But this time only with the ratchet and socket instead of the impact driver.

Turns out, the impact socket is thicker, and it just wasn't getting properly seated because of the shape of the washers.
With the ratchet and socket, once I had cleared off dirt and underbody gunk, I was able to get the socket on properly, and got them to turn. One of them needed a lot of back and forth, but came out in the end.

So tomorrow it's off to the big orange store to buy materials for the dolly, and build it.

[jeffrey8164]

Good news.
I still haven’t figured out if it’s just the energy of the universe or just me, but it seems that even if I know what needs to be done exactly, there will always be a fastener that makes it take twice as long.
_________________
Volkswagen!
Turning owners into mechanics since 1938.

“Let he that is without oil throw the first rod”
(Compression 8.7:1)

[MTT3107]

I think it’s the law of the universe….

Or maybe just an extension of Murphy’s law.

[MTT3107]

Another question about the body/chassis gasket.

One of the tasks I have once the body is off the chassis, is to replace the gasket.
I have been all over the web and youtube to see how it's done, and what techniques are being used.
Most folks will apply some kind of sealant/glue, to hold the gasket in place.

But then I saw this video, from Airkewld : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FYJELtOsBM

They use self tapping screws to hold it in place, no sealant/glue.

Pros/Cons ?

[jeffrey8164]

I just used 3M weatherstrip adhesive when I did mine.
I wouldn’t feel comfortable punching a bunch of holes in the pan.
_________________
Volkswagen!
Turning owners into mechanics since 1938.

“Let he that is without oil throw the first rod”
(Compression 8.7:1)

[MTT3107]

I wouldn’t worry about the holes, they are tiny.

[Bobs67vwagen]

I think they said in the video that they used the holes that the factory had made when they used nails.

[MTT3107]

So, today I finally got to separate the body from the chassis.
But before I completely pull it, I will have to modify my dolly, since it is not high enough.
No big deal, just lift one end at at time with the hoist, and replace the uprights on the dolly with taller ones.

That said, it took me a while to get it free.
Looks to me like this Ghia isn't as undisturbed as I thought..
It looks like the body was off the pan before..
Because there is no gasket between body and pan, just some weird brownish goop..I will clean it all up and install the proper gasket.

And, have a question about the steering column :
I wanted to remove it, but found that the wires for turn signal and ignition are connected directly, no connector in the column like on my '73 beetle.
Is this normal ?
To remove the column do I have to cut the wires, and splice them back together when reinstalling it ?

[Rome]

About 35 years ago I had a very rusty '72 Ghia Coupe "parts car" on which I also separated the body from the chassis. It had the exact same brownish foam strip remnant with very sticky glue that was all along the perimeter of the chassis. My car was certainly never separated before, so I'd confidently say that your chassis seal seems factory original.

My steering column wiring harness definitely had a large connector high up on the column, but it contained the extra wires compared to yours for the wiper motor switch. I doubt that VW would design a harness like you found on yours on which the wiring could not be quickly connected separately, due to the assembly line process of mating the body to chassis and getting all the mechanical and wiring connections completed quickly.

The harness on your Ghia would be largely the same as on a Beetle of the exact same year, so if there's a reader who also has, or recently worked on an original unmolested Beetle of your era could comment about this detail. Or check the Ghia factory wiring diagram in the "Technical" tab to see if the wiring portion at the column had an obvious break due to a multi-chamber connector.

[MTT3107]

Just checked the wiring diagram here on the samba technical section. There are several diagrams for the '71 Ghia, they all show direct connection between turn signal, dimmer switch, ignition switch and the rest of the wiring.

[Redlabel6]

My '73 had the same waxy goop between the pan and body, no gasket.
I used a butyl rubber rope when I put it back together, no gasket.
d
_________________
1957 Oval Window Beetle
1973 Karmann Ghia Coupe
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=666792&highlight=73+coupe

[Teeroy]

Just finished a 71 restoration this Spring. 70-1 Ghia ignition switch and turnsignal definitely do not disconnect at steering wheel end. They get loomed together at the switch housing and then run along the steering tube to a grommet by the fuse block. The only connectors are at the fuse block or related switches and relays.
_________________
Pres. Rivercity VW Club www.rcvwclub.org
Founder Derr Wheat Panzers (DWP)
ARR #3
www.autosportsnorthwest.org

[MTT3107]

OK, thanks for the answers !

I will clear off that goop, and install a regular gasket, already have it here.
And will cut the wires to remove the steering column, and splice them back together when I reinstall it.

[Teeroy]

Dont cut and splice, just unhook them. If you need them out of the housing, just cut the outer sleeve so the harnesses will seperate (only about 10 wires)
_________________
Pres. Rivercity VW Club www.rcvwclub.org
Founder Derr Wheat Panzers (DWP)
ARR #3
www.autosportsnorthwest.org

[Bobs67vwagen]

Sometime in the early 70s VW stopped using the rubber gasket between the body and pan and substituted that sticky brown mung. I took the body off a 74 bug pan earlier this year and it had the brown stuff, no gasket. My 67 bug which is off the pan for the 1st time now has the rubber gasket.

[MTT3107]