Thinking of trying to build an engine for my type 3

[Brian_e]

[Rob Combs]

Hey Dave,

Brian is right on this one - mine torqued to 50. Recheck your Scat PN on the box against their website and you'll know exactly which bolt/rod combo you have.

Sorry OP, none of us meant to veer off but this is important to all of us!

[RickS]

[Murt]

Interesting
Sorry dommer, I’ll follow this up over on my 2007cc build thread.
If I’ve effed up on the torque that I used on the instructions that came with the Scat rods, then it looks like I’ll be buying a new set of ARP2000’s when I eventually build the engine, and for the moment I’m just going to carry on with geometry
Dave
_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[dommer]

So it's been awhile since an update, and I guess this is now just my build thread, so sorry for the weird name.

When last I posted I'd just realized my issue with a borked bearing, which needed replacing. The new set of main bearings arrived and I've got the short block completed.

Before Christmas I went through the process of measuring all of the ring gaps in all 4 cylinders, weighing them for balance, finishing the fins a bit on the cylinders because they were a bit gunked up. I ended up spending several hours with hand files to do this only to realize a dremel would have done the work in a few minutes.

I then mounted and measured the deck height on each cylinder, and that revealed that all 4 of them were a bit too tall, which would have resulted in a pretty crappy and low compression ratio. I spent some time trying to find someone to machine them down for me. That took some time and $400.

The cylinders are now all machined to my specs and they're set up for 8.7:1 compression ratio, which I'm happy with. I mounted the heads, the tins for under the cylinders and the pushrod tubes, and tried to begin working on the rockers, but the studs were way too long, so I've got to cut those down a bit. I actually already cut them down, but was a bit too conservative and didn't remove enough material.

So now I've got the choice of either pulling the heads off to shorten the studs, or else doing the plastic bag and shaving cream/grease tricks to keep metal shavings from getting into my engine. I'm leaning toward the second as I'm a lazy man and I don't want to remove the heads for the third time. Am I stupid to consider shortening the studs while mounted to the motor?

Sexy pics for clicks:

Why won't the rocker assembly go all the way down?

Studs too damn long for the rockers.

Almost looks like a motor now.

Way too early picture of what the tin will potentially look like.

[Cusser]

It's way too clean...will never run !!!!
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Murt]

Hi @dommer
Good to see you back at it
Don’t be Lazy my friend, pull the heads, take off your studs and cut them properly away from your engine.
_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[Brian_e]

Another perfect example of why you never seal up ANYTHING until after you have done an entire mock-up of the engine. All the way out to the valve covers.
If you do the full mock-up, you don't have to worry about the mess, you just slip it back apart quick, cut them, and then continue on with your mock-up.
Only after you have ALL of your rocker geometry done, do you pull it all back apart for a final clean and then final assembly with sealer. Then you know the final assembly will go together nice and smooth with no surprises.

If the rockers don't go down all the way, spin the shaft 180deg. There is a slight counter bore on one side of the shaft to index on the lower end of the rocker studs.

Brian
_________________
So more or less the lazier and stupider you want to be, the nicer quality parts you need to buy.
-Modok

Narrowed beams, Drop adjustable spring plates, Bus disk brake and IRS kits.
www.type-emotorsports.com

Type E Engine Parts and Supplies
https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-parts

[sled]

[dommer]

[Rob Combs]

How tight are they in there?

Can you pull them one at a time, cut, and reinstall? Not sure if you have enough room to double-nut them or get a stud remover on them...