How much space remains between sand seal pulley and case?

[UnSlow]

I will be changing my 1600 DP to a sand seal pulley and bought the above model from Empi. I am hoping to install a crank trigger wheel for an EFI conversion behind the new pulley, but I have not yet installed it. The reason I have not installed it is that I would like to install it only once, if possible. But in the meantime I am currently mocking up the crank sensor pickup location with my original stock pulley.

I was wondering if any has already installed this pulley on their engine and (with the bolt fully tightened) what the minimum clearance is between the back of the pulley and the most rearward protrusion of the engine case. Once I have this measurement I can then determine if the crank position stator (wheel) I had hoped to use will work in that location.

Thanks much in advance for your help.

[BFB]

Not much if any, hence the spacers to move the pulley(s) out. otherwise without the spacer the back of the pulley makes contact with the face of the seal
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"how am i supposed to torque the rear wheel nut to 250 ft lbs??? " - clonebug
An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
Most experts aren't.

[EVfun]

I have an EMPI press in sand seal kit on my buggy engine. There is 11mm between the left side of the case, at a boss cast in for the oil gallery for the #4 main bearing, and the back of the pulley. If you look at this picture, it is the red circle furthest to the right.
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[ps2375]

Pretty sure there are vendors that sell a crank pulley that is ready to accept a tone wheel and may even come with one. Why re-invent what is already invented?

[74 Thing]

These pullies have the backside already tapped to accept a trigger wheel

https://www.kingvw61.com/shop/p/pulley67

CMI pullies from CB are similar
https://www.cbperformance.com/searchresults.asp?search=EPSSP

[UnSlow]

[UnSlow]

[EVfun]

Curious question… What caused you to decide on the GM Gen 3 ECU? With so many OEM and aftermarket options I’m curious as to what goes into your decision process.

I considered modding and using the stock ‘75 up Bug L-jetronic for the buggy. In my case the thought process was that it runs really good on a stock engine, reasonably available used for cheap, and it would be easy visually clean up.
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[UnSlow]

EVFun - several reasons for the GM ECU actually.

First - my plan is to run full sequential EFI using a DBW (drive by wire) Bosch throttle body. I have already employed this system on my Porsche 911 using an ECUMaster ECU, so I am familiar with the process. The GM P159 ECU supports DBW, which provides the dual benefit of avoiding having to configure an IAC (idle air compensator) and allows precise idle adjustment in all operating conditions.

Second - the GM ECU has the capability to read up to 3 bars of boost. My ultimate goal is to convert the engine for forced induction (turbo) and this ECU will be up to the task. Plus the ECU can be effectively tuned with HP Tuners software.

Third - the cost of the ECUMaster (and similar others) start at around $1200 for the ECU alone. Plus most systems require a module add on for the DBW feature. You can buy a good used GM ECU for about $100 these days and they are very plentiful. Plus, the stock connectors for the GM ECU are also widely available.

I have already come up with a solution for the 1x cam position signal the GM ECU requires, so the last real piece of the puzzle is how to obtain a 24x crank signal off of my pulley.

The last, intangible, reason is that I like to research these issues and I am always learning more about sequential fuel injection solutions for older vehicles that do not yet exist - just my inquisitive nature.

Thanks again for the input.

[BFB]

Dont forget to factor in how much it costs to buy the tokens for tuning the GM ecm with HP tuners. Last time i talked to a buddy about that it was ridiculous. You were money ahead to get a standalone unit, pay for it once and be done vs paying more to HP every time you want to make adjustments. Least thats how it was last i looked into it, which has been a few years.
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"how am i supposed to torque the rear wheel nut to 250 ft lbs??? " - clonebug
An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
Most experts aren't.

[raygreenwood]

[UnSlow]

[mikedjames]

Before spending too much money : https://wiki.rusefi.com/All-Supported-Triggers/#gm-ls-24x

The base model uaefi ECU is $165.

People are creating GM plugin replacements - it is all open source firmware running on a fairly decent STM32F407 MCU, which has enough spare capacity to do knock sensing DSP in firmware, so probably a good baseline for any derivative ECU versions.

It comes with a lot of performance oriented features, but needs more user knowledge than some of the more complete solutions.

One fun feature is Lua scripting to add additional controls or CAN bus outputs.

It uses TunerStudio MS so the license is more in the $60-100 for the tuning software.

This mess is halfway through installation - runs and drives with wasted spark ignition.

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Ancient vehicles and vessels

1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.

1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
1973 wooden Pacer sailing dinghy

[UnSlow]

mikedjames - very interesting. I had never heard of that solution (rusefi) previously. That looks like a useful product and I wish you luck with your installation.

In my case, I think that because I have basically amassed all of the stock GM parts required, and essentially only need to adapt my 24x wheel to my crank pulley, I will probably go the HP Tuners route for now.

Question - since you apparently have a cam position sensor and a crank position sensor, why did you choose to go wasted spark when that system supports sequential?

Also, I do not recognize your cam position sensor. Is that your own design or is that something that is commercially produced?

[UnSlow]

I am going to start out with a simple configuration like this, but I will be using a Bosch 44mm TBW throttle body. After I get this working to my satisfaction my plan is to upgrade to a simple intercooled turbo setup to get a feel for the additional mapping and tuning that will be required.