Second Engine Build 1904cc ?

[boxer74]

[Murt]

Hello Chaps
Been doing work on the side with this 1904cc, and wish this site had a larger supply of emoji's, one that covers lots and lots of swearing would be good.

I have a question for the regular builders please
Honestly, when you are assembling and dis-assembling the case numerous times as part of the build, do you always torque every single case nut ?

I hit a big problem the day before yesterday I have built the engine all the way out, and it has been apart maybe 8/10 times ? But I have only ever torqued the 6 main case nuts.

I had decided to build it, and glued it together to a short block, and started installing all of the case hardware. When I was torquing, I hit the six main ones to spec, and went to do the two 8mm long studs next to the flywheel end, these two, plus the 6 large washers are the only ones I add a little black Permatex under the washers.

Well, one of them, the lower one would not get up to torque, and I could feel it pulling the stud !!! I was absolutely well ? cursing emoji here please.

I have opened the case and the stud is F*****d for want of a better word, and I mean well and truly.

I'm really fed up with fighting this build, and so I have mixed up some JB weld and screwed the stud in as far as it goes with JB Weld on it, I have cleaned the case halves again and re-assembled it all, and torqued everything apart from this nut of course. I am going to wait a couple of days to be sure the that it has gone off, and will try and get to torque.

But now I feel I'm damned if I do and damned if I don't. If it reaches torque, can I trust it ? If it doesn't reach torque, then it's simple, I will split the case and throw it in the dumpster (we say skip over here )

I'll be into the case for the cost of opening it up, and a set of bearings, so damage is acceptable in the greater scheme of things ? maybe $350, but will have a brand new W100 Cam/CB 74mm Crank/AA Rods etc, and would probably look to storing them all and getting a new case, which would be a pain in the ass also, because If I had a new $1200.00 case, then a 1904cc wouldn't have been my first choice to build !!
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1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[dunk]

With respect!...

How many times have you seen people say " always, always, always.. FULLY build the engine at least once before you start sealing things up..."

Imo?! I don't always do all the perimeter bolts when sorting main bearings for clearance and crush for example..

But on the final assembly before actually gluing it together?... yep.

The two perimeter bolts by the no.4 bearing and the 2 at the flywheel end by the cam, can throw up issues as you're finding.

That stud that's giving you grief can often pull on used cases... I've fixed it with a helicoil or v-coil before. No problems afterwards. I'd pull it apart and do that. Could still make a good engine if all else is good. Shame to bin it for the sake of one coil repair.

Good luck!

[BFB]

yeh, ive had that cam stud pull too. and really, one could assemble and torque all the case studs and be fine , disassemble then reassemble, torque all again and the damn thing pull that last time. you cant say for 100% certainty that it would've happened prior to, maybe it would maybe it wouldnt..
I think Dunk is right, should definitely coil it. I doubt JB will hold and even if it does you'll always have that haunting feeling in the back of your head while you're driving it.
pull it back apart and fix it , your almost done.
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"how am i supposed to torque the rear wheel nut to 250 ft lbs??? " - clonebug
An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
Most experts aren't.

[Brian_e]

Bummer Dave. I have had those studs start pulling many times during mock ups. I usually repair them with a time-sert. I certainly wouldn't consider trashing the case. This is also another good reason to do the full torque on mock up. I have always found them during regular mock-up, rather than final assembly.

Did you pull all the threads all the way out, or did you quit and then unscrew it? If it still had some threads in it, and you got the hole reasonable clean, and the stud clean, I am betting the JB weld will work fine. I have seen and done some pretty impressive repairs with JB. Just make sure its really good and cured before you put torque on it.

Brian
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[smitty24]

I had the same exact thing happen on my 2054 rebuild! Damn stud near the flywheel. I was so pissed! Didn’t want to take engine apart so I used a Helicoil I had with some red Loctite. Installed the long stud. Didn’t have much faith since I prefer the Time serts as well. It’s been holding fine for a few years now.

[Murt]

Thank you for the replies gents
I guess I was pretty pissed off when I said about trashing the case.

I will try tomorrow and see if it holds torque, but I have also ordered a helicoil kit, which is something I have not done before, so will maybe think this one over a bit more.

On a lighter note, I had brought home my heads and cylinders for the 2007cc today, and went to work cleaning Wow, there was a whole lot of crap in the cylinders, but now using white paper towels they are absolutely spotless, so one step closer to closing the case on that one. As well as lots of soap and hot water, I used a whole can of Loctite 7063, which I have found to be very good
_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[Rob Combs]

Hey Dave,

Installing a helicoil is a pretty easy job. Just make sure the hole is drilled STRAIGHT. Since there’s already a straight hole to pilot off of you should be fine.

You might want to use a drill stop if you’re free-handing it. If you have a drill press all the better.

You got this.

[Murt]

Thank you for the Amazon link Rob
I'm just waiting for the Helicoil kit now, hopefully today or tomorrow.
I've been looking at numerous videos on how to do this, and I am definitely going to try and save this case

Here's the sort of thing I have been looking at, and definitely think I can make a decent job of this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHVM-JtV42o

I have also learned another lesson when it comes to building on a used case, regarding torquing and what to look out for, so hopefully a win win from a fail fail
Cheers
_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi