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clearancing a bell housing
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millerje78
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 4:47 pm    Post subject: clearancing a bell housing Reply with quote

I want to put a late motor with 200 mm flywheel in my 66. The transmission, I hear, will not accept the larger flywheel, unless it is clearanced for it.

My question is, how do I clearance without botching up the bell housing and engine mount bosses?

-jesse
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would bolt clutch up to flywheel [flywheel not on engine] and install flywheel on trans input shaft scribe trans case. Then remove flywheel and use a grinder to cut clearance.
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Robert N.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 7:01 pm    Post subject: 12v flywheel 6v trans. Reply with quote

I have been looking in to doing this on my 66, I have a complete 2095 engine I may install in it. so far the only info that I have come across is from Keith Seume's vw beetle performance handbook. He states that the easiest way to to do this install is to match the 12v engine up to the 6v transmission untill it reaches a point where it will go no further. Turn the engine over with a socket so that the teeth of the flywheel will mark the bell housing. then with the engine romoved carefully grind out the excess material with a die grinder. Also you will need to re bush the starter bushing for 12v starter motor, and of corse you will need a 12v electrical sysem to turn the starter. One other thing that he states is if you are going to use an engine from a later model vw that had an IRS transmission with a guide tube for the throwout bearing you will have to change the late models pressure plate for an early model 12v unit. I belive that if you use a kenedy pressure plate that they can be converted to each sysle.
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myb356
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the bolts that hold the rear trans mounts are too long...grind the ends of the bolts first and then grind the bell housing second. if you grind the bell housing first, the sparks from steel bolts will ignite the magnesium dust and burn the paint off your chassis. Been there, done that.
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sammyphsyco
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 8:44 pm    Post subject: Re: 12v flywheel 6v trans. Reply with quote

Robert Naquin wrote:
I have been looking in to doing this on my 66, I have a complete 2095 engine I may install in it. so far the only info that I have come across is from Keith Seume's vw beetle performance handbook. He states that the easiest way to to do this install is to match the 12v engine up to the 6v transmission untill it reaches a point where it will go no further. Turn the engine over with a socket so that the teeth of the flywheel will mark the bell housing. then with the engine romoved carefully grind out the excess material with a die grinder. Also you will need to re bush the starter bushing for 12v starter motor, and of corse you will need a 12v electrical sysem to turn the starter. One other thing that he states is if you are going to use an engine from a later model vw that had an IRS transmission with a guide tube for the throwout bearing you will have to change the late models pressure plate for an early model 12v unit. I belive that if you use a kenedy pressure plate that they can be converted to each sysle.


Yup my idea from above wouldn't have the right clearance because of the play on trans input shaft. Input shaft would have to engage pilot hole in relation to crank centerline.
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DaBraink
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In this article from The Bug Shop, it explains how the steel teeth of the flywheel will easily shave the bellhousing of the transaxle and give a perfect cut.
The author said he bolted the transmission to the engine and started the engine. While running he gradually tightened the bellhousing to engine bolts until the cut was finished then unbolted, cleaned it out and went on his way.

I guess it's worth a read

http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfq12v6.htm
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Matt Miller
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2005 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

its a really simple task. the main areas to clear are the inner lobes for the 4 bolts used to bolt the engine to the transaxle
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millerje78
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you for all of the ideas everyone. I was looking at my transmission and the inside of the bell housing looks screwed with. maybe somebody already ground it down, who knows.

does anybody know where i can get a picture of the bell housing, 66 trans, that has not been molested by grinding? I want to compare.

-jesse
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toddyvol
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 6:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm gonna be doing the same. I have read that making a template of the flywheel is also another alternative. I would assume you would want to use something light amd rigid. I was thinking of using wood, plexiglass, or sheet metal. Just cut it to the exact diameter.

I think I have seen were someone used cardboard. I guess that would work also.
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1964 Ghia
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have recently ground out a (1964) 6V trany bellhousing to fit a 215mm flywheel (1975 type 4). I read heaps of posts which talked about using the flywheel teeth to cut the bellhousing.
One or two even suggested using the starter to crank the flywheel over.

Well, I had a go. I found the flywheel jammed quite tightly and hand cranking (or using the starter motor) just wasn't an option.

I mounted the motor to the tranny(it wouldn't do up all the way), then removed it and ground out the section marked by the flywheel teeth. I had to remove the motor about 5 times to get there in the end.

Each time I removed a little more material with the grinder (I used a cheap 4 inch angle grinder for the job). I started one small fire with by sparks hitting the magnesium alloy filings. I quickly put this out with my index finger (that hurt!) out of fear that the rest of the tranny would follow.

I used a template on the forth time I pulled the engine out, but I still needed to clear just a litle more around the starter motor.

It was a much more time consuming process than I'd anticipated. Not having access to a concrete slab to work on made it harder to remove and replace the new motor. Being a type 4 also made it a little tight to get in and out.

It wasn't a technically challenging job to do though. I was just a little shy about grinding out any more of the bell housing than absoultely necessary.
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Guys, this is an extremely easy 15min job. There's no need to get fancy with templates or do a ton of work re and re-ing the engine. Just hold a bare 12V flywheel and push it over the input shaft. See where it touches the case and grind away. When the flywheel can go as deep as the case was originally machined, you are done.
Using an aluminum grinding wheel on your angle grinder makes it go really fast. Have a brush, vacuum, or air nozzle to clean away the dust, and do it often.
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've always used a rotary file instead of a grinding wheel. That way you get a pile of shavings instead of magnesium dust. And I've never had a fire that way.

-Andy
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Rich Hanson
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 4:25 pm    Post subject: 12v in 6v trans Reply with quote

I've done this before and the bare flywheel method works great and is a lot less hassle. A rotary rasp (available at Home Depot) works great and produces larger filings, not dust...hence reduced fire risk. All 4 bolt locations plus a little of the bellhousing will have to be ground down.
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toddyvol
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have this

http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/HDUS/EN_US/asset/images/eplus/080596099039_3.jpg

Is that what you are refering to as a rasp?
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2005 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That picture is a rotary file, like what I use. A rotary rasp is similar.
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BART!!!
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1962 x3 wrote:
its a really simple task. the main areas to clear are the inner lobes for the 4 bolts used to bolt the engine to the transaxle



B S
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GB2S
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I rebuilt a 73 DP to put in my 63, I didn't want to grind on a 45+ tranny ( for a lot of reasons), so I found a 6 volt flywheel that will fit on 12 volt engine I can use the 6 volt starter. Found the flywheel on the samba.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, it's really not that hard to clearance it. Like I said above, (a long time ago, I see!) I don't use a grinding wheel, I use a rotary file on a drill and the metal just peels off. Takes a bit of time but it works.

By the way, anyone ever see this VW Technical Bulletin Before?



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 2:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaBraink wrote:
In this article from The Bug Shop, it explains how the steel teeth of the flywheel will easily shave the bellhousing of the transaxle and give a perfect cut.
The author said he bolted the transmission to the engine and started the engine. While running he gradually tightened the bellhousing to engine bolts until the cut was finished then unbolted, cleaned it out and went on his way.

I guess it's worth a read

http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfq12v6.htm


I personally have done this method with 3 different cars and it works sweet. Almost resembles a nice clean machined surface. Never has it caused any complications.
Bret
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candymustang65
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yupp been there done that least 1000 time's !
Peice of Cake ! Twisted Evil
Shave the Transaxle bolt bosses flat but leave some meat !
Install motor Tighten evenly << Keep reveal between Engine and trans Even ! leave lil 1/8 inch reveal !
Turn motor by hand < Teeth will mark where you need to clearance more on transaxle bolt bosses !
Startin the Motor to do this is frikin insano !!
Not that I havent seen this done few Dozen time's like this !
But think of the Fly wheel as a Fulcrum ?
Your useing the weight and lenght of the Engine to Pry on the Fly wheel like a fulcrum on the Case Thrust ? Evil or Very Mad
Not necccessary !
Rotary File and a Drill it's soft Aluminum !
After that you will need a 6 Volt to 12 volt Starter Bushing or Auto stick starter !
Just Grind the 4 Bolt Bosse's on the transaxle only !
Now as to Clutch throw out shaft etc etc << Different Post ?
Ohh Also on the Case you have the starter bolt , then the 2 bottom stud's !
But on the Drivers side the top Bolt that goes intoo the Case !
The Engine case should have an alignment Bushing that this bolt thread's intoo !
So when your all done Grindin and goin in for the Final Assault ?
As in Final stabb of the motor ?
I will use the Bolt to Lightly tapp the Bushing in the case out about 1/8 inch or less !
Then I simutaneously tighten all 4 mounting bolt's down Evenly While I have My Beautifull assistant Pump the Clutch briskly off and on few times !
While Lightly Tappin on the Alignment Bushing in the casse as I tighten down !
Make's thing's match up a Lil smoother ! Lil Smoother throw on the Clutch etc.
Startin the Motor and usin the Fly Wheel to Grind the Bell Houseing ?
What are you Crazy ?
But I liked the article ?
Just to Neanderthal for a CK kinda Guy Like Me !
Quit Stressin !
Peice of Cake you will see ! Pretty hand's on Simple if you look at it !
Sean
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