Where to get protective sheath for accelerator cable?

[Major Woody]

I am in need of 111 721 551, the 670 MM long black plastic protective sheath covering the accelerator cable as it passes through space over the transaxle.

Wolfsburg West does not list it on their site.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

[gatorwyatt]

if you are refering to the almost bowden tube for the accelerator i got mine from bfy they used part no. 131 721 551. it cost 15.00.

[busdaddy]

Home depot,
nylon water pipe (can't remember diameter) 3/8"
Super cheap and works great.
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[pyrOman]

I'm using a bicycle brake cable "cover" on the Dormy!
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[EverettB]

Were those used on Split Buses?

I like them but I have never seen one on a "original" Split-screen Bus.
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[Lind]

[Major Woody]

I will look again for a little wire loop. Pretty dark down there. I did try pulling on the remainder of the sheath and it would not move, so perhaps there is something holding it in place.

These get real brittle over time.

Using the 131 prefix, I found that both WW and CIP have the tube. CIP has it for $1 less and free shipping, but that is still $19 for a simple plastic tube. It also may not be long enough at 600 MM--the type 2 parts list says it should be 670MM. At 600MM, it is listed as fitting bug and Ghia.

I think I will use plumbing tube. That is actually quite close to what was there originally.

[Lind]

[hazetguy]

yeah, later splits used the bowden tube type cable sleeve. the tube is similar to the bowden tube for the choke, fuel reserve, and clutch cable, in that it is a metal coil protected by a ruber/plastic cover. one end fits on the metal guide tube for the accel cable, near the front of the transmission, and the other end has a trumpet like end on it where it fits on the metal accel guide tube that fits through the fan shroud.
the part number is a beetle number (111 721 551), but in the parts book it also mentions that it needs to be shortened to 670mm. i believe the original length of the 111 sleeve is about 690mm.
i have come across various lengths of this bowden tubes. i have always found that regardless of which one i use, it needs to be shortened. if it remains long, there is a significant "bow" in it and often it is too much and makes the cable too short to reach the carb.
sometimes i get lucky and one of the ends comes off the tube, and then i can trim it there, but the ends are crimped on, so many times they are difficult to remove without damaging the ends.
i cut about a 20mm section out of the center of the tube, and then tape it back together, with alot of electrical tape. this has worked well for me for many different busses, and i put them on all my busses.
sleeves can be found really cheap at shows, because most times people don't know or care what they are.

[Major Woody]

Jon,
I did not see any sort of metal lining in the sheath on the 67, like the choke cable on my oval or the bowden cable on Eberspacher. This tube was just thin black plastic, and very smooth like nylon, with no metal end (at least not on the engine side of the tube). Snapped right in the center.

I'll watch for them at swaps. I'd like to have an original one eventually.

[EverettB]

[crofty]

[Major Woody]

Perhaps mine had been replaced previously. I will look more closely at the front end of it when the trans is out. I'll try to take pics as well.

This bus has only 58k on it and had not been driven since 1984, so I assumed the tube was OG.

[campingbox]

I too put them in everything I work on. I've had no problem getting the crimped ends to come off, trim a bit, and put the crimped end back on.

[Major Woody]

Greg, what do you do--install the engine and then adjust the tube length with it in place, or do you just measure to 670mm and cut?

The new VW of Mexico ones for sale all appear to be too short.

[hazetguy]

[BryanM]

I used a peice of fuel line as a temp untill I got the right peice, which I still havent gotten yet. Just a suggestion untill the proper part is found.
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[campingbox]

[campingbox]

[Clara]