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1835 with ZERO power
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fastyfreak68
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Joined: January 11, 2004
Posts: 9
Location: Oceanside, CA
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2004 4:26 pm    Post subject: 1835 with ZERO power Reply with quote

Well now I've done it.
I was running in 4th gear on a 2 lane behind a slow poke idiot in the fast lane riding nose to nose with the car in the slow lane. Leaving me no choice but to go slow (45mph) and ride behind these nuckle heads. I got a chance to go around the idiot slowrider in the fast lane so I took it. I droped down into 3rd and floored it. Passed him no problem, then right before I up shifted I felt the power drop along with the sound of a bogging engine.
Now I've got no power to climb a grade or accelerate quickly.
Carb inspection time....... found a rusted/cloged/broken accelerator pump spring in my 36 Dellorto for number 1 & 2 cylinders. So I rebuilt both carbs and replaced pump springs in both with brand new ones.
Problem solved? NOPE
Replaced distributor cap and rotor, (plugs,wires,& coil are still new items)
Still no power.
Engine idles fine, revs to 4grand and still sounds fine.
Go for a drive and the fastys got no guts.
Still no power. PLEASE HELP
I want my power back, oh almost forgot. I did a compression test too and came up 130-120psi in all cylinders.
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keifernet
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Joined: May 11, 2002
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2004 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you say idles fine and revs to 4 g's fine, you must mean in the driveway right?

well if you get on the road and it falls on its face then it must be either fuel related ( not enough to support the car under load)
are the accel pumps squirting a nice stream of fuel evenly now that you re did the carbs?
are you sure the fuel pump is putting out enough (quantity) to keep the bowls full.

or does it spit pop and sputter like the electrical is breaking down?
( " new " does't mean squat to me when your talking coil/ condenser/ etc... I have had every type of primary ignition component come bad out of the box or fail/act up in short period of time numerous times over the years.)

when troubleshooting a problem like this, I always start with a valve adjustment ( despite your high compression numbers) and then check each electrical component one thing at a time... and look over everything you touched recently as many times as it takes and you should find the trouble. Good luck!
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fastyfreak68
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Joined: January 11, 2004
Posts: 9
Location: Oceanside, CA
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2004 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes your right about the driveway motoring.

And the fuel system is something that I haven't extensively checked into.......ok I have a high flow K&N style fuel filter mounted just below the tank, and a facet electric fuel pump mounted under the tank also, continuing from there is a rigid steel fuel line running the length of the pan. From the trans to my driver side carb is 3/8 rubber fuel line. I checked the fuel flow at a point between my dual carbs and got a good volume and flow, although it was pulsating. Is that normal?
I'm not sure what to check on the electrical side.
I've got a Bosch blue coil, CB Performance 10mm plug wires, bosch plugs, high energy blue distributor cap, pertronix flame thrower ignition, and an 009 distributor.

The accelerator jets apeer to be functioning fine, although I haven't flow tested them.
I'm not sure what you mean by spit pop and sputter. Is that in reference to fuel flow, or engine idle? (I'm new, it's my first VW)
Thank you for your post.
Aaron
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UncleBob
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Joined: August 21, 2002
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Location: Northeast Florida
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2004 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timing? Could your distributor have worked loose or jumped a tooth after you hammered it? If you've got a compression tester, surely you've got a timing light. Whats your maximum advance looking like? Just curious.

Also, I agree with Keifer on it being fuel related. Your symptoms may be caused by crud in the fuel tank. Rusty bits floating around near the strainer, when, under low fuel demand needs, stay at the bottom of the tank. But, in high demand needs (highway sprints), the rusty flakes congragate around the fuel tank outlet strainer, essentially shutting down your fuel flow. You stop, pull over, and the flakes settle to the bottom of the tank and all seems well. It will rev up to 4K in the driveway. Anyway, if your tank seems to be in good shape, and its Original, it defintely wouldn't hurt to pull it and clean it, just to rule out the tank as a possibility.
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toddwhite
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Joined: January 13, 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2004 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would do a compression test as well.
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oilspot
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Joined: July 11, 2002
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2004 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

check with your timing light to see if your distributor is advancing
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6.90 bug
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Joined: January 22, 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2004 1:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds like some dirty jets..i agree it is fuel related.clean the heck out of those carbs
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