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Crankey
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2004
Posts: 2672
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 Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 7:46 pm Post subject: |
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| r39o wrote: |
| Crankey wrote: |
just a heads up on Tiico...I bought grill parts from him on the phone, I paid via CC and at the time, he didn't have them in stock.
well, it's been a year and 1/2 and after many many requests for a refund I haven't gotten anything from him but talk.
I even sent an email with my paypal email and a link to paypal just to make it super easy for him...and I got ZIP
the Tiico guy is an A Hole of the first order IMHO. this scumbag owes me $200
all my communications have been really civil too. I'm not slandering him here, these are just the facts on my experience. |
Shoulda contacted the cc company right away. It may well be too late now, sorry to say. You may just call and verify, especially if you still have your cc bill and related documentation. Never know, you may get lucky. |
well he said the boat from South Africa is slow and the grills are 8 weeks out...then another 8 weeks out....and by the time I was sick of waiting I didn't even have that CC account any longer. I agree I should have taken action sooner, but he still shows his colors not squaring up with me. based on this I'm just saying buyer beware of this POS. |
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weatherbill
Samba Member
Joined: May 15, 2007
Posts: 366
Location: Nashville
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| Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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 Tencentlife.....you may have hit the nail on the head. thanx for your detailed observations! This is probably my problem. WOW! All these years I was wondering what it was and I think you nailed it. And thanx for putting it into a simple language I can understand!
I wonder what the best route to take to correct the problem would be, replace the pistons or shave the heads with the other modifications. I wonder what a job like that would cost??? I would be totally happy with my engine if I could get it back to normal power becaseu I';ve already had both heads replaced correctly on this engine and I don't need super power, just normal get up and go and I would be happy and if these modifiactions can be done and save me a few thousand from getting a conversion, I would be one happy camper. |
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Volksaholic
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2005
Posts: 1771
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah, USA
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| Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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You could start with TenCent's excellent suggestion of taking compression readings to establish whether this is the problem. Then I think you should call Boston Bob to get his input since he built the beast. From there you could pull the heads and establish what the current compression ratio is and how much head work it would take to bring it up to where you want it. Any engine mechanic worth his salt should be able to help with this, or BB may have already given you the numbers you need to get the job done.
It sounds from one of the previous posts that it should not take much removal of heat material to tighten things up, so you can probably get by with head work and leave the rest alone. It would be a shame to scrap an engine that is probably very well built, judging by what I've read about BB's work, and you've already invested money and time into.
Standard disclaimer... if one of the gurus contradicts me, quickly discard anything I said that conflicts. My knowledge is pretty basic and some of it's pretty rusty. That said, I was pleased that TenCent was able to back up what I originally suggested with his knowledge and some first hand experience with BB's engines. 
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1988 Wolfsburg Edition, 2001 Subaru EJ251 |
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tencentlife
Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2006
Posts: 10153
Location: Abiquiu, NM, USA
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| Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:29 pm Post subject: |
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Well I don't have any first-hand with BB engines, and I want to stress that I'm only speculating based on his published parts offerings.
WB, for sure you want to do a comp check. Depending on your altitude, you ought to be seeing better than 150 in all the holes, even more if you're at sea level.
I'm trying to think of how you could get a wad of putty down the hole to take an impression and see if the squish depth is 1mm or 2. That would be the key measurement. Or fill a cyl with oil and see how much it accepts. The volume of a normal chamber would be 47+15+6.9 = 68.9cc's, the Cofaps would be 6.9 more or 75.8cc. But the plug hole isn't at the very top of the space, so it would be less. Hmmm, how much?
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Shop for unique and useful Vanagon accessories at the Vanistan shop:
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also available at VanCafe.com!
Please don't PM here, I will not reply.
Experience is death to doctrine. |
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Jon_slider
Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2007
Posts: 5091
Location: Santa Cruz, Crowdifornia
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| Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 8:20 am Post subject: |
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> 205 70R14 95S M&S is what the tire reads. they are firestones.....
which exact tire model?:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/firestone/fireston.jsp
what I need is the rotations per mile, and I will tell you what effect it has on your gearing.. not much.. within 2%, depending on the actual tire model.
the stock Michellin LT tire that came on Vanagons was 205x70x14 with 819 rotations per mile
other 205x70x14 tires can have different rotations per mile.. as much as 2% variation..
but, I dont think your tires are the problem.. I would go with the tencent opinion. |
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Joe VW
Samba Member
Joined: January 02, 2005
Posts: 134
Location: Vermont , Okemo
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| Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 11:31 am Post subject: |
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| tencentlife wrote: |
| So what's your actual squish clearance after shaving the heads? It would be zero with Mahle pistons, which wouldn't be good when its hot. Did it have the Cofaps and you corrected? |
.040 or 1mm actual deck with the Cofaps on both engines with no shims. The dishes are machined the same as Mahle minus 1mm off the top. The equivelent would be shaving your stock Mahle pistons 1mm, the dish ends up being smaller.
I never assume anything though. They could change dimentions at any time, like I read about the AA China pistons. |
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tencentlife
Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2006
Posts: 10153
Location: Abiquiu, NM, USA
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| Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 12:11 pm Post subject: |
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So you have the Cofaps and corrected. That's what I wanted to be clear about. You're smart to have set the squish correctly that way for the turbo, instead of leaving the squish at 2mm on the rationale that the lower CR is good for boost. Squish is way more important than static CR in that instance.
I know all about the reduction in dish sizes. Boy do I know. I can tell you how much you lose per mm as you shave down. This is part of my whole method of setting the CR for different altitudes, etc.
I have a set of Cofaps here, but I haven't actually cc'ed them since I'll probably never use them. I have some OEM Mahles, too. But at a glance they look to have the same dish volume as the Mahles. I don't think they compensated the dish, at least on these. If they had, the reduction in static CR wouldn't have been as huge as it is due to the low comp height. Sometime I'll cc them and see for sure. Pistons are easy to cc. I just put them on a scale, tare out, and fill the dish with water. Weight in grams is cc's.
_________________
Shop for unique and useful Vanagon accessories at the Vanistan shop:
https://intrepidoverland.com/vanistan/
also available at VanCafe.com!
Please don't PM here, I will not reply.
Experience is death to doctrine. |
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