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Baywindow rear end. Torsion bars, Spring plates and settings
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vwjoe
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Joined: June 15, 2004
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 3:23 pm    Post subject: Baywindow rear end. Torsion bars, Spring plates and settings Reply with quote

I have a lowered 1969 baywindow bus with a 1776cc motor. The rear end the spring plates were left at stock height and the Busboys boomerang kit installed, (front of the bus was done with a adjustable axle beam from the Busboys as well.) The bus sits level, but when taking off the ass end squats and rides like that. I want to get rid of that. So I have to raise my ass end up alittle to get rid of this problem. how do I go about it? I have the basic idea of it. I know the torsion bars have 44 inner and 48 outter splines. I have an angle finder, Just not sure how to go about it, the way the book is explaining it. Bus is on a level surface, but with the rear end jacked up on stands. Motor is out of the bus right now as well. A little help here would be nice. Anyone that knows their shit Please help. I'm running out of time. 727-542-5267 name is Joe. Thank you!
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Blaubus
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the vernier adjustment is somewhat baffling. to adjust, the bar has to be removed from both the frame and the spring plate . turn the bar just one spline relative to the bar's previous positions against both the frame and the spring plate.

by doing that, the spring plate changes angle, owing to the difference in the number of splines, inner and outer. as the bentley explains, the bar rotates 8.16 degrees at the frame while the spring plate changes only 7.5 degrees. the net change is .66 degrees.

is that what you are looking for? or did you need a dissassembly procedure?
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vwjoe
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah that's what I'm looking for. Does it matter that the bus is sitting at angle? Rear is up on jack stands and front is on the tires. Do I need to raise the front end to level it out? Do you read the angle of the spring plate before its raised onto the stop or after? (that part is a silly question, i know. I just want to make sure, this is the second time I've had to do this. I want to make sure i'm right.) Most people lower their bus by moving the spring plates one way (up) and I'm basically moving them and tad the other way (down) will this matter?
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busdaddy
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Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bus angle doesn't matter if you read the starting angle and the finished angle and understand basic math.
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vwjoe
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Camber needs to be adjusted as well. The rear tires were wearing REAL bad on the inside, from the center line of the tire out or in a actually. Ive read of people using washer as spacers, 4 Spacers go between the housing and the spring plate. In my case It would be 2 between the Boomerang kit and the spring plate and the other 2 between the housing and the ,boomerang kit, Correct? How do you determine how thick of spacers or washer to use? I know after raising the rear end up it will help alittle as well.
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Blaubus
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the washer method seems real sketchy to me...

wedges would be the proper way, but i dont know how much tolerance the spring plates have for being pushed outwards. wedges would be made on a milling machine at a machine shop.

question is: what angle exactly? you would have to use a water level in a parking lot to find a level parking position. then use a plumb bob and some trigonometry to find what angle off plumb each wheel is sitting at.
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