I have to cut an access hole to replace my fuel sender

[hiimgus]

I have an old rusty 77 bus and it is fuel injected she runs really good. Reliable as a vw owner can ask for. I have put 40000 miles on it in 4 years and don't want to go in there and pull the motor and mess up a good thing. So I have decided to cut a hole to replace the fuel sender so I can stop running out of gas. I was wondering if any one had any detailed pictures of this process. I do not want to go in blind and cut the hole in the wrong spot or to big or something stupid like that. Any pictures or info would be appriciated. Please do not try to convince me to pull the motor or drop it down or anything like that. I am not that savy with this 2ltr and I do not want to mess with a good thing.

[AndyM]

It is possible to RnR a sender with the motor in. I've done it many times.

[ddwbeagles]

I know...you're going to hate this answer as it does not describe "how to do what you asked", but you don't have to do it. You can pull the tank through the engine bay with engine still installed. Just read a tank resto thread on here yesterday where another Samba member described this. Just food for thought before you pull out the hatchet.


EDIT....and AndyM is a faster typer than me
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David W - from Chesterfield, VA / Jefferson SD / Stephens City, VA in that order.

71 Ghia Coupe autostick
78 Westy
86 Vanagon Weekender

[Daverham]

1. Yes, you can pull the tank without dropping the engine, I have done it and I'd be glad to tell you what to look for. (http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=378770&start=20)

2. Cutting the sender hole is also easy. I would highly recommend a sawzall above all over techniques for a nice clean cut. The top of the tank is maybe 2-3 inches beneath the deck of the floor, so a full-length blade will go too far. If you can cut or break off your sawzall blade so that it is just long enough that it doesn't retract inside the stop/guide, you will be fine. Start the hole with a drill and plan on discarding the cutout piece.

3. I can tell you how to repair your sender in a half hour for $1, if you haven't already bought one (assuming yours is broken in the same way as mine was). (http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=380693&highlight=sender)

4. I've heard of people doing creative things like getting a bilge pump access cover (from marine supply store) to fix the hole afterward. Sounds nice. I'm waiting for a fresh panel from a donor bus to cut out, oversized, and install with sheet metal screws.

[Alex6373]

I allso pulled the tank with the motor still i the Bus , IT CAN BE DONE.

[rustbus]

volkswagen had a write up on how to cut the sender hole, with measurements and everything. at at one time they offered the cover plate to clean it all up...i saw it here, but can't find it now.

anyone?
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May of '72 Deluxe. 2.0L L-Jet CS & 091 trans conversion
my Bus thread

[VDubTech]

[Daverham]

Not everyone is a hack with a sawzall - I cut a clean and precise hole with mine, so your assumption about that is incorrect.

Now, when this guy fires up an angle grinder, as you suggest, shoots sparks into his potentially-vapor-filled fuel tank chamber and explodes his bus, I hope you'll help him find a new one. Same goes for your awesome plasma cutter idea - which is why I suggest the sawzall above others... NO SPARKS.

Lazy? C'mon. Don't make judgments about people like that. I went to the trouble and expense of buying a nice tool to do the job right - and I did it right. Laziness has nothing to do with it. VW should have put an access hole there in the frost place, so this is an upgrade, not a lazy work around.

[Traveling Writer]

Since engine-in tank pulls seem to have become my specialty, check out my gallery for some pics others have found helpful. Also a few threads on the subject, a FAQ (maybe in the links already provided above), and if you get stuck, PM me. And yes, engine in tank pulls are a piece of pi$$ (too easy, for non-Aussie speakers, I should add). An afternoon and it's in and out no sweat.
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Cheers,
Davi

1977 2.0 FI Westy
2011 1200cc Yamaha Super Tenere
1976 Feet (they work surprisingly well)

[busdaddy]

This would be my weapon of choice for that job, makes a nice thin cut and easy to control. But pulling the tank would definitely be my first line of attack.

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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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[rustbus]

Here - not the VW write up, but a link i found which Karl had provided a year ago or so.

Thanks Karl!

http://www.dolgyfre.adsl24.co.uk/spooky/access/access.html
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May of '72 Deluxe. 2.0L L-Jet CS & 091 trans conversion
my Bus thread

[Daverham]

[VDubTech]

[Daverham]

In terms of cutting tools you have spinning wheels, reciprocating blades and shears & nibblers (ignoring plasma and torches for obvious reasons).

Spinning blades spark too much for this job.

Shears distort your metal and nibblers leave a ragged/sharp edge.

Reciprocating blades are best for this job as they cause no sparks or distortion, and they leave you with a nice clean edge. Both the air tool shown by busdaddy and a sawzall belong in this category. That is my point, as that is the "business end" of the tool and the only part that really matters, if you are more concerned with the color of the handle or the logo on the name-plate then I don't know what to tell you. Yes, the air tool is smaller and probably easier to handle, but a TINY bit of finesse and either one will do just fine.

[Wildthings]

[Daverham]

^^ That's a nice tidy fix!

[ned]

Hey Man, When you are driving down the road with your gas gauge reading full it isn`t gonna mater how you did it. Don`t let anybody beat you up about your choice. You really have to wonder about people who use the internet to bully others. Would I talk to you like that in person? I don`t think so. I wish that I could give you some precise advise about your bus. I have 71`s and that is all I ever mess around with. The buses I have repaired the sender on, I drilled 2 small holes first so that I could get a peek in side. 1 hole is for my flashlight and the 2nd is to view inside. That being done I am able to get things lined up for the cutting.
If it were my Deluxe I would pull the tank. If its the camper I would cut a hole. It depends on the car. Do what you want its OK.

[germansupplyscott]

if we were to drill the hole we use a 3.5" hole saw. makes a perfect hole, no sparks. usually we replace the sender without removing anything except the cover for the tank. getting the sender in and out blind is not so easy but do-able and it's always good to do a job without taking too many things apart.
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SL

[waltervee]

When I followed the measurements given on an earlier post from the site I found that either I didn't measure correctly or the dimensions were different for my '74 westy. I found that using the ridges of the floor was a more accurate way for me to find the spot to cut --- 11 high ridges from the passenger side and about 1" from the back of the turn-down behind the rear seat.

Drilled a hole and used a sabre saw with a fine metal blade.

Hope it helps.

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[Andre4]

Someone cut a huge hole over my fuel sender, I'd guess they didn't get the right spot the first time. When I had my tank out I cleaned up the hole then cut a flange and a cover. I welded 1/4" pieces of steel to the deck where I wanted the screws for the cover to go then welded the flange over everything. I then tapped holes for the screws that hold the cover on through the 1/4" pieces and used seam sealer to fill the gaps between the flange and the deck floor. Here's how it came out:

I think rather than welding if I did it again I'd do it all with the super epoxies they sell at bodyshop supply stores for panel replacement. I've never tried them but I'm told they make a bond that is as strong or stronger than welding and for this application they really don't need to be all that strong anyway. Plus they don't make sparks! This job could be done with the tank in place that way!

While I was at it I made an access for the fuel filler neck as well:

If anybody wants to do this one there is a structural member that runs basically through the middle of my hatch. I allowed room on either side of it to get my hand in there. Obviously you don't want to cut through it...

Personally I'd way rather have the access hole than spend an afternoon dragging that firewall out with the engine in place.

Andre