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Brakes to the floor... occasionally
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norcalmike
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you are not loosing brake fluid, then id consider a bleed job or recheck adjustment. that the only thing it could be IMO
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Worknclassbug
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Both have already been done. I think it is the seals in the master cylinder at this point. If they are of the type that I'm used to seeing they are flared and are probably bypassing until they happen to catch. I've noticed that it usually goes to the floor if I'm just slowly pushing the pedal but if I press it fast it catches so I'd say the seals have degraded or shrunk on the piston of the master cylinder. I've got a new one on the way and will replace it and post some results.
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Worknclassbug
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

alex77 wrote:
it sound like your brake master cyl is loosing pressure. That is why the second time you press on the brake pedal it feels better. Do you have a functional brake warning light?


The brake warning light is on my list of things to check while I have the dash apart this week. As far as I can tell it is not working at this point. I have the dash apart to repair the odometer and the fuel gauge (both of which I fixed last night). None of my dash lights (outside of the spedo now) work and I plan to go through them all. The wiring inside the dash has had some fingers in it in the past.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Worknclassbug wrote:
Both have already been done. I think it is the seals in the master cylinder at this point. If they are of the type that I'm used to seeing they are flared and are probably bypassing until they happen to catch. I've noticed that it usually goes to the floor if I'm just slowly pushing the pedal but if I press it fast it catches so I'd say the seals have degraded or shrunk on the piston of the master cylinder. I've got a new one on the way and will replace it and post some results.


You may well have worn or hardened seals or you could have trash in one of the compensator ports (or whatever they are called). Either way a new master cylinder is probably the best way to go.
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Worknclassbug
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree. I repaired some dash wiring today. I guess after some aging the terminals become brittle and crack so I had to replace a bunch of wire terminals. When I was done I did notice that the brake light is on constantly. I'm thinking that tomorrow I'll drain the gas tank and remove it since I need to check the sender in the tank and I need to check the fuel pump for the gas heater. I think it will make changing out the master cylinder a lot easier. Thanks for the help guys.
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Worknclassbug
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I managed to get the master cylinder out last night. I had let the brake line connectors soak in WD-40 overnight and they came lose with no issues. The question I have now is about the brake switches. They both look identical. Are they? I don't see a separate listing in the parts catalog that says either one is different. So do I just buy two of the three prong brake switches?
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Rex lucy
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wondered that myself a while back. buy two they are alike.

gaggle o vws
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Lettuce
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the brake light switches should be the same. The warning light goes on if one switch trips quicker than the other, so if the the switches are different the warning light could be on even if your brakes work fine do to different pressure tolerances of the switches. I have reused the switches several times.
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