AAZ into a 88 Weekender, conversion thread

MarkWard · Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 2:04 pm Post subject:

If you are using the Vanagon Diesel bellhousing, the stock NA diesel starter should work fine. That is what I am using. If you are using the gasser bellhousing with an adapter, I think Karl makes a starter adapter plate for a high torque starter. Remember the Vanagon diesel had a large battery mounted in the engine compartment which minimized the cable runs. Less voltage drop over the wire run. Good luck.

OddN · Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 5:03 pm Post subject:

brent239 · Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 5:16 pm Post subject:

Went ahead and ordered Karl's adapter at westyventures.com and the starter to go with it. Too bad we couldnt plan for this. being this is a newer van, it has a pretty large batt cable. I believe were just gonna upgrade our grounds.
any thoughts??
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88 westy suby 2.5

brent239 · Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:31 pm Post subject:

Bolted up the TDI starter today, wired up a solenoid with a light and a pushbutton on the dash. super easy just some speaker wire ran to the front. well put power to it all and WABBAAAM PUH POWPOW and shes singing!! sounds awesome with no exhaust! finishing up the throttle cable tomorrow. and road test soon!

Been debating on the fuel pump, Will it ruin the injection pump? What do you guys think?? We also have a reducer(?) that suppose to slow the pressure down?

Should be on the road before the end of the week, can we run it to the muffler shop with no exhaust?? I'm gonna say a 2.5" exhaust, should be perfect for that bad boy. Cant wait to drive it!! the 225/70/16 are ready to go and mounted on the rear along with disc brakes!! gonna be a sweet van when I leave here!
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88 westy suby 2.5

vweggie · Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:54 pm Post subject:

Let's see some pictures please!
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1990 Multivan 2.1 AT

SyncroGhia · Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 1:52 am Post subject:

AAZ pumps have an interference fit to the engine lid when fitted to a 2WD van. Only when fitting them to the Syncro do they clear.

You'll need to cut a hole in the lid and then plate over the top to gain enough clearance.

The easiest setup to fit would be the JX exhaust manifold and turbo, then you can use the stock TD exhaust system too so everything is off the shelf.

MG
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T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD

brent239 · Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 11:21 am Post subject:

whats a matter with a custom exhaust? and when it warms up, i'll take some pics!
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88 westy suby 2.5

Home Team Van · Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 11:46 am Post subject:

brent239 · Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 1:01 pm Post subject:

more money than buying a whole replacement turbo and manifold??
theres no rusting down here and I have a downpipe already, I dont think we'll have too much trouble making just a muffler and a flexjoint fit.
What about the fuel pump????
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88 westy suby 2.5

brent239 · Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 1:11 pm Post subject:

Syncroincity · Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 6:29 pm Post subject:

You can use the fuel pump, but must also use a pressure reducer to avoid the Bellagio fountain effect from your IP...
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'86 Syncro CHC Top AAZ Turbodiesel
'04 Passat Variant 4Mo 5MT

Vanagon Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466866&highlight=

brent239 · Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 6:43 pm Post subject:

Thank you sir, im also gonna wire it to the ignition. its running pretty good now, but thats with me touching the wire from the pump every 10-15 seconds. lol.
I need to figure out a throttle cable setup now. the auto has a kickdown lever that doesnt have enough travel for the diesel throttle. Im disconnected the arm to use as a connection point but I need to do some adjusting to get it right. I have a spare arm that im gonna chop so I dont have to chop up the stock throttle cable to the front

What did you do for your airfilter? I put a cone filter on temporarily, but it runs right into the belt. sorry I havent take any pics yet, Kinda busy and it needs to be cleaned up. worst part is it so cold right now in the shop cant get started til noon. I feel really bad for you northerners im crying about 30's!!!
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88 westy suby 2.5

Barnsleytrucker · Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 7:49 pm Post subject:

Being cheap I reused the fuel lines from the passat donor, ditched the fuel pump and used the intake from the passat with the airbox cut off & a cone filter rammed on in its place. Just cleaned up the grounds. That was 3 years ago & it chugs into life at -30 degrees C if I remember to plug it in. Best investment was the starter adaptor from westy ventures & using a Jetta TDI Starter. KEP Adaptor 15 Degrees (its a Doka)

Barnsleytrucker · Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 7:52 pm Post subject:

Being cheap I reused the fuel lines from the passat donor, ditched the fuel pump and used the intake from the passat with the airbox cut off & a cone filter rammed on in its place. Just cleaned up the grounds. That was 3 years ago & it chugs into life at -30 degrees C if I remember to plug it in. Best investment was the starter adaptor from westy ventures & using a Jetta TDI Starter. KEP Adaptor 15 Degrees (its a Doka)

Syncroincity · Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 10:02 pm Post subject:

I think your problem is simply having the electric pump still in the fuel line; I tried to gravity feed fuel through a WBX pump, and it wouldn't flow through with the power off. The diesel injection pump has a draw pump built into it, right where the fuel line goes into it, and should have no problem drawing fuel from the Vanagon tank, unless you have either an obstruction in the line (like an inop fuel pump) or a pretty bad air leak in a fuel line. The biggest problem with taking the pump out that I ran into was the huge step-down in fuel line size from in to out.
The upside of keeping the pump is of course, instant priming, and better cold weather starting.
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'86 Syncro CHC Top AAZ Turbodiesel
'04 Passat Variant 4Mo 5MT

Vanagon Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466866&highlight=

brent239 · Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:54 pm Post subject: A Fuel pump is a BAD idea!!

after much debate here, I at least talked him into a Fuel pressure regulator. Well couldnt get the van to start anymore without the batt dying so we went and got an optima today and installed it in the rear, theres a batt disconnect inline so it was an easy add and soon I will put a solenoid as the main is the new aux. well, between the optima, the tdi starter and all new grounds, its cranking like its on speed!! Well its running pretty good, kinda sloppy but enough to pull it out of the garage, add some more diesel and some treatment, and let it run some problems out. FPR is set on 2.5 which I believe is 25 psi. its running good, all of a sudden, IT WENT CRAZY!! running out of control, after a lil rev, took off full rpms, I dove through the side door and turned it off as fast as I could. after a few more tries, still was going nutz! My heart was heavy Crying or Very sad

I thought we blew the injection pump. well we pulled the pump and the inline FPR and back to business!! moral of the story NO FUEL PUMP, and listen to Brent from now on Laughing

I was happy, its moving under its own power and will be on the road, as soon as I get these brakes ironed out.

few other problems, temp guage is not responding but when I turn the key on, climbs to the top, fuel guage does too but then settles at 3/4 which i think is how much fuel we have in. checked it with a test light and theres not power there, I have the yel/red from t7-2 hooked to the sensor on the back of the head. the water output has a water temp plug on it but I have no way of hooking to it and no junkyards to go to Crying or Very sad

ran it for awhile no radiator fan, but hot hoses so I called it quits. Def should be on the road real soon!
heres your pic, theres def stuff that I dont approve of, but we've just tried to get it together and will iron things like a better looking air filter! but you can see the spot for the optima Cool

and my sweet solenoid setup for the glow plugs! to the wolves

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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88 westy suby 2.5

DAIZEE · Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:43 pm Post subject:

why is the air filter there and not up the left rear shaft? That rig looks better than mine (I mean the air filter hose & filter). What is it? I have a K & N?
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'09 2.5L Jetta 5 cylinder, 5 spd, super turbo, see thread in H2O Cooled Jetta, etc...
83.5 Vanagon L Riviera Model with 98 1.9L TD AAZ 4 speed Daily Driver 3 out of 4 seasons (sold)
84 Vanagon GL Wolfsburg Westy WBX 4 speed (sold)

brent239 · Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 2:04 pm Post subject:

well the runaway was gone, now its back. on the top of the valve cover that piece is leaking oil back into the turbo intake feeding oil into the motor causing it to runaway. I'm unsure of oil level. I think it may have to much oil. we've drained the oil previously and replaced with only 4 quarts, well were trying it again. I removed the tube on top of the valve cover now it doesnt it start. but Oil dripping out as it cranks over.

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88 westy suby 2.5

MarkWard · Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 2:20 pm Post subject:

Do you know the history of the engine? If it was overfilled, oil could have gotten up into the breather. It is also possible the engine has too much blowby and compression is forcing the oil into the breather system. Mine will spurt a slight mist with the engine running, but not enough to run on to the ground and leave a puddle. Perhaps running the engine will seat the rings back in and the blowby will be reduced. You can run the valve cover hose into a catch can for now. The catch can needs to vent. Cap off the other end for now. I can't tell you why it won't start now. A runaway diesel is a scary event. You will need to go back and check the basics. Verify the glow plug amp draw, crack the injector lines to be sure the pump is still primed. Not knowing how bad it ran away, it is possible the valves may have hit the pistons. A compression test will determine if that happened. How does it sound when you crank it. Also it sounds like you have some electrical shortcuts. Be sure the pump cutoff solenoid is getting power with the key on and during cranking.

edit: a clear supply hose between the pump and filter is helpful for diagnosing engine running problems.

danfromsyr · Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 2:31 pm Post subject:

Ohh what a run away train wreck, it could end up being.
I speak from my own experiances. of course.

GET YOUR DIPSTICK IN PLACE AND WORKING.. I understand the challanges, I've a few issues when I oput the TD into my 1980 camper a few ye4ars back, and in mom's 2.5l eurovan swap I had to drill the block and install a tube.

the Engine crankcase NEEDS to vent, it DOES NOT need to vent into it's intake. seperate the 2 from each other till you have crankcase pressure sorted out.
catch the breather vapors into a 'catch can' for the time being and if you have excessive oil then fix that issue. it should breath, but collect very little measurable oil.

2ndly and this again from experiances in self destruction.
you NEED TO HOOK the AT trans kick down into the throttle cable.
it is a 'varied' input that effects the firmness of the shifting based against the AT governor, if you leave it disconnected you risk damage to your friction discs (too soft a shift) or it won't up shift till 45+mph and that's just plain unfun in traffic.
on my brother's AT conversion (Audi 5cyl turbo fwiw) he ran a 2nd cable to the front (bulk bicycle sheathing) pedal 'bellcrank' attachement.
this AT cable enacts the kickdown as well, so the Engine throttle has to stop(bottom) before the AT cable, which will have a click into 'kickdown'
on Mom's AT conversion (eurovan 2.5L fwiw) I made a cable using a MK-I/II golf/jetta/cabriolet AT throttle cable which includes a sprung slipjoint section to allow movement after the T-body is WOT. on
on this install I used the stock vanagon AT throttle cable from pedal to AT lever, then made as necessary the modified (t-body was too distant) MK-I/II cable relay.

lastly
Kudos and keep on pushing forward.

Dan in NY
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AAZ into a 88 Weekender, conversion thread
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