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Brake Booster in 71 bus needs rebuild AGAIN?
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Harveybacon
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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 4:55 pm    Post subject: Brake Booster in 71 bus needs rebuild AGAIN? Reply with quote

For now, got my brake booster (servo) back on and painted the ol bus. Brake booster was working great, and now is whining and seems to be busted again. I'll have to mail it back out for another 3 weeks to hope they fix it. Would there be something causing it to break? push rod, or vacuum line? everything seems to be wrong in the booster; I think lines are in good shape...
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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

are you leaking brake fluid into it?
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Harveybacon
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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
are you leaking brake fluid into it?


it's possible, the level in reserve went down. do I need to replace the master c.? or is it a seal if this is the case. How do I check? thanks
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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You replaced the brake booster without replacing the master cylinder? I was under the impression that those went hand in hand, usually a brake booster goes out when the MC leaks brake fluid into it.
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Harveybacon
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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

maximan1 wrote:
You replaced the brake booster without replacing the master cylinder? I was under the impression that those went hand in hand, usually a brake booster goes out when the MC leaks brake fluid into it.


well, no I didn't replace that. So is this something I should do then? They are only 35 bucks on MidAmericaMotorworks' site. All I did was send in booster for rebuild. They will take it back for free, and hopefully fix it. But really, even if MC was leaking, would it blow the newly rebuilt booster after only 30-40 miles again?! Thanks
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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harveybacon wrote:
maximan1 wrote:
You replaced the brake booster without replacing the master cylinder? I was under the impression that those went hand in hand, usually a brake booster goes out when the MC leaks brake fluid into it.


well, no I didn't replace that. So is this something I should do then? They are only 35 bucks on MidAmericaMotorworks' site. All I did was send in booster for rebuild. They will take it back for free, and hopefully fix it. But really, even if MC was leaking, would it blow the newly rebuilt booster after only 30-40 miles again?! Thanks


Little advice - stay away from MAMW. German MCs cost more but I'd say that's one place not to scrimp on parts.
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Harveybacon
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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks, I just bought the bus for 900 and got 230 in credit to the place MAMW. so it's technically free, and I'm not skimping in theory, lol. Is there a way to check if there is a leak? I didn't notice any fluids when I replaced the part. The guys up at the import shop that sent out booster for me feel that the rebuild people could have just made error and there is no charge to send it back. I just need to know what to do to check the situation out. Thanks for the input guys!
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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harveybacon wrote:
thanks, I just bought the bus for 900 and got 230 in credit to the place MAMW. so it's technically free, and I'm not skimping in theory, lol. Is there a way to check if there is a leak? I didn't notice any fluids when I replaced the part. The guys up at the import shop that sent out booster for me feel that the rebuild people could have just made error and there is no charge to send it back. I just need to know what to do to check the situation out. Thanks for the input guys!


MAMW did buy OEVeeDub, so they do carry some real German parts but apparently not MCs yet. Maybe save that credit for other parts you'll be needing...

Note - Ouch I just checked German Supply where I got my ATP MC and the prices have skyrocketed... Wolfsburg West has them for $150 though and they say it will fit a '71 with a new reservoir...
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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

also, I need to know if it is going to harm anything to drive it like this. The brakes feel way better since rebuild. But started whining, and revving up when braking. It's not too hot here in FL right now, but would traveling like this hurt any other components? I mean it only revs up when stopping, so of course I'm not using the gas then anyways... Anything going to get worn out that I'm not thinking of? Thanks
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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harveybacon wrote:
also, I need to know if it is going to harm anything to drive it like this. The brakes feel way better since rebuild. But started whining, and revving up when braking. It's not too hot here in FL right now, but would traveling like this hurt any other components? I mean it only revs up when stopping, so of course I'm not using the gas then anyways... Anything going to get worn out that I'm not thinking of? Thanks


If it were me I'd just cap off the booster vacuum nipple and run without power brakes rather than risk a lean-running engine.
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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ccpalmer wrote:
If it were me I'd just cap off the booster vacuum nipple and run without power brakes rather than risk a lean-running engine.


great, I can do that? just pull off the hose, and cap it there? there are two hoses going in, should I do that to both? or just cap off at carb? thanks!

edit: if I just pull off hose at carb, I don't think I should have to cap it at the hose, but just on carb? or cap both off and drive? Question
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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so pulled hose off carb, stuck a perfect stick in hose, and tightened clamp, threw it to the side of compartment. And I found perfect rubber stopper and put it on carb post/hole. Brakes are hard, but work, and there is no Revving! good thinking. just like before I had it rebuilt, but without revving. Hopefully this is OKAY!?

If I left the hose unplugged (no stick) would that be okay? still curious how vacuum works on this, would it being open hurt anything? Thanks!!
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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I left the hose unplugged (no stick) would that be okay? still curious how vacuum works on this, would it being open hurt anything? Thanks!!

You can leave the hose open. When you pulled the booster did you replace all the vacuum hose? There are two pieces, one in front by the booster and one in back that you plugged. Replacement hose is widely available. Use Gates 27231 power brake booter hose. It's 15/32 inside diameter.

What about the check valve? Do you have one? Is it pointed the right way?
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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:

You can leave the hose open. When you pulled the booster did you replace all the vacuum hose? There are two pieces, one in front by the booster and one in back that you plugged. Replacement hose is widely available. Use Gates 27231 power brake booter hose. It's 15/32 inside diameter.

What about the check valve? Do you have one? Is it pointed the right way?


Good to know I can have hose open, I'd like to check and see how that works out in a minute. (edit: worked out good, less "hard")

I replaced all hoses that needed it. they are all pretty new except small one, still in good shape. Thanks for heads up on where to get more hose.

I can't seem to find any check valve, unless inside booster. I have read about them, but have no evidence that there is one on my 71 bus.
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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't seem to find any check valve, unless inside booster. I have read about them, but have no evidence that there is one on my 71 bus.

This is bad. You need a check valve. Also, you spoke about a small hose being in good shape. Which is that? These hoses can fail internally and look good on the outside.
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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2011 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The check valve is in the line between the firewall and the manifold (should be anyways).
I'm not so sure you can blame the master for the failure unless it's obviously leaking fluid, same with pushrod length and vacuum plumbing. If the end of the master is dry the only reason for a failure this soon is a bad rebuild (it happens to the best of shops sometimes).
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WELL, i CAN REPLACE THE HOSES THAT HAVEN'T BEEN, JUST FOR PRECAUTION. i SEE NO CHECK VALVE INSIDE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.


Is it okay to drive without power, as I have it now? I don't want to mess anything up doing it this way either. Thanks
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harveybacon wrote:
WELL, i CAN REPLACE THE HOSES THAT HAVEN'T BEEN, JUST FOR PRECAUTION. i SEE NO CHECK VALVE INSIDE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.


Is it okay to drive without power, as I have it now? I don't want to mess anything up doing it this way either. Thanks


Yes, the brake don't work well but you can get by. People do it all the time.
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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2011 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harveybacon wrote:
Is it okay to drive without power, as I have it now? I don't want to mess anything up doing it this way either.


Sure. Unless you get into that situation that you need every bit of brake available. Then you might mess up the front end of your bus and the back end of some other vehicle.
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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2011 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since this thread is about rebuilt brake boosters... quick question.

I had mine rebuilt a few years ago by that guy in texas...I have not driven the bus much in those few years. Been garaged. However, even since last year, brakes are not quite right....

My question is this: When I depress the brake pedal, even just 1/2", the servo seems to suck air from the front vent on the push rod. I just pulled off the hose and was blowing into it. I pulled the brake pedal down and the servo immediately leaks air. Even if suck, pull vacuum, it still pull air.
IS THIS RIGHT? the engine revs then stalls out, sometimes it doesn't stall..But there is a vac leak.

So is this booster shot again, after only a few years and less then 5k miles?

I am replacing the MC right now so I will check for leaks. Check valve is in place and no gasoline in vacuum lines. (another cause if servo failure.)

SUcks, as I am driving to VA from NJ in morning to finally get in some much needed camping..

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