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1974 VW Beetle - Project Thread *Picture Heavy*
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JeRmAn
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Good to see the engine is out.

Make sure your cooling fan is correct 33, 34 or best 35 mm width (inside measurement). Thinner earlier fan will not cool properly.

You are missing the foam rubber seal over the cooler to force the cooling air through the cooler.

#1 & 2 head tin is missing a big chuck of metal.

You are going to need all of this engine tin except for pieces #8, and # 29.


Thanks a ton for all the information, and the engine tin diagram. It's crazy, but as I was taking the engine out and apart, I was wondering to myself exactly how much engine tin I was missing. It's going to take some time to get this done, but I hope to have it all set back into the beetle to run by year's end. There's a possibility to have it done before then, either way I'm enjoying the journey. I should have taken before and after pics of the engine bay. It was disgustingly dirty, and now looks spotless. I will be painting it all black before the engine goes back in.

Any suggestions on where to get a good replacement pulley? Mine seems to be bent and past it's prime.
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1974 V VW Logo lkswagen Beetle - Project Restoration

'74 Project Thread
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dubhead74
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol that question has an endless amount of answers lol
What type of replacement pulley are you looking for.Factory...aftermarket...sand seal..with numbers or without numbers.....so on and so on Wink not to mention whats your budget lol If you get a used on make sure its not warped btw whats wrong with your?
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are welcome!

The Classifieds on this website are a great resource for parts. DH crankshaft pulley was biggest stock diameter since 1961, and most came with a 3/8" tall "D" stamped into the rear face of the pulley. Used a smaller pulley and fan RPM will be lower and cause cooling problems.

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Good time to strip the engine down to a long block. Then you can retorque all the engine case fasteners in same sequence as you would when building it and then same for heads. Simply amazing how loose they can get especially when running without all the tin, seals, and thermostat in place.

Cleaning out all the casting flash out of head and cylinder fins helps also.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 2:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
DH crankshaft pulley was biggest stock diameter since 1961, and most came with a 3/8" tall "D" stamped into the rear face of the pulley.

Does the DH stand for anything?
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 6:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DH = Dog House
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Makes sense, thx.
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JeRmAn
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dubhead74 wrote:
If you get a used on make sure its not warped btw whats wrong with your?


Thanks for the info bud, mine is warped and needs replacement. I'm not really sure whether to go with an aftermarket Pulley or one good used OEM. Either way I will decide soon.

Question Question: Do you know what size the nut on the front of the pulley is? I don't have the right size wrench and I need to go pick one up.

Eric&Barb wrote:
The Classifieds on this website are a great resource for parts. DH crankshaft pulley was biggest stock diameter since 1961, and most came with a 3/8" tall "D" stamped into the rear face of the pulley. Used a smaller pulley and fan RPM will be lower and cause cooling problems.

Good time to strip the engine down to a long block. Then you can retorque all the engine case fasteners in same sequence as you would when building it and then same for heads. Simply amazing how loose they can get especially when running without all the tin, seals, and thermostat in place.

Cleaning out all the casting flash out of head and cylinder fins helps also.


Great information, thanks so much because I didn't know about the stock pulley's. Also thanks for the info about the cooling fan size in a previous post. Very helpful! I'd love to take the engine down to the block, however I'm not sure I'm confident enough in my abilities to do so. I usually don't give myself enough credit, and I'm sure with the aid of a good repair manual I could manage it. I'm currently cleaning and degreasing the engine.
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1974 V VW Logo lkswagen Beetle - Project Restoration

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JeRmAn
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok guys, got yet enother question. I was rolling under the beetle today taking a look around at various things, and noticed a large build up of grease on the top of the transmission case, and the frame, directly underneath the starter. The starter had tons of grease build up as well. I sprayed some degreaser on it and took a closer look. I noticed this little rubber tube coming from the starter, and it seems to be an open tube. I took a picture of it below...

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Could this somehow be the cause of the grease/gunk build up? Can anyone tell me what this little thing is? What it's purpose is? etc?
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docdanracy
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DesertBob wrote:
Nice to see another 74 here even if it is a Standard. Here is a picture of my 74 Motor. I did switch the manifold with one that did not have the EGR valve but everything else is stock.

Correct fuel pump will be angled to clear the alternator. The one for Generators will not.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Did the non-California cars not have the vacuum retard circuit for the dizzy?

My motor...notice dizzy retard and advance vacuum lines..
This is with my rebuilt 34pict3 installed in place of the standard 34pict4

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dubhead74
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 10:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow thats something I have not seen before on a starter.I hope someone will explain what it is there for.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never seen that tube on the starter.

Grease gunk probably is from gear oil seeping out of the transaxle seals. If you do not know when the gear oil was last changed (or even if there is enough in it) , it is time to change it. Make sure the fill plug is removable, before taking out the one or two drain plugs, depending on which model of transaxle case you have in there. Do a tea leaf reading of the dregs of the gear oil for any metal chunks.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JeRmAn wrote:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Could this somehow be the cause of the grease/gunk build up? Can anyone tell me what this little thing is? What it's purpose is? etc?


I have seen this rubber "tube" on hundreds of starters. The purpose is to relieve any moisture from the starter that may get in there. No it is not likely the source of your grease build up.
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JeRmAn
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 9:08 am    Post subject: Update Reply with quote

Thanks for all the help with the Starter questions.

Since my last post I've been working hard on multiple projects. I have taken out the fuel tank and have degreased, sanded, primed, and painted the fuel tank and exhaust. I am also working on doing the same to the heater exchange tubes currently. The finished product looks amazing, and I'm excited seeing the process. I will post pictures up in the next few days. I'm also trying to get the mess of electrical wiring in the trunk re-routed and organized. So I have taken out all the knobs, air flow equipment, tubes, and glove box. I'm going to get an electrical schematic to see what's wrong, needs to be fixed, and clean it up. I can already see that it seems like I am missing some relay's, and that there are a few broken or missing connections. So it's going to be interesting trying to figure this all out. I'm also degreasing the engine, and taking it down to the basics. I'm going to clean it up and paint it as well. I'm also sanding and prepping the engine bay of the car, I'm going to paint it black. It's going great, and working on this little guy is addicting. Like I said, I will post up some pictures of my progress soon.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey everyone! Just wanted to get some photo proof on here of what I have been working on. We all know a good progress thread is worthless without pictures!

First the bumpers, they were tattered and rusted everywhere. I treated them with some commercial degreaser / Scotch Brite Pads (stainless steel safe), and then finished them off with coats of chrome polish and buffing. Turned out awesome!

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Next the Stand, Intake Manifold, and Intake Tubes. These guys were almost caked over in grease and rust. It took days of degreasing and sanding to get them ready to paint. They took great to the paint, I did 3 coats of primer, and 4-5 top coats. This is also the same color I will be painting the engine block.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The Exhaust had a lot of surface rust, and just looked nasty and caked over with grease. Same method here, lots of cleaning and sanding. Painting method same, turned out nice.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm real proud of these heat exchangers. They looked just plain disgusting when they came off the engine. Tons of caked on grease, surface rust, spots. Same method here as before, they turned out smooth as glass.

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The gas tank was quite a job. Lots of surface rust on it, glue, and did I mention grease??? Laughing

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Hope you guys liked seeing some of my progress, it's been a labor of love so far and I've really enjoyed it! Very Happy
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mnussbau
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great job!
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JeRmAn
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mnussbau wrote:
Great job!


Thanks Mike! I was beginning to wonder if I was gonna get any feedback. Wink

This bug was so dirty and greasy when I got it, inside, outside, every side. It's been amazing to uncover it all and see what a solid little bug I have here. Maybe someday mine will be somewhere near the condition of your 74's. Thanks again!
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 2:34 pm    Post subject: Vacation Work Reply with quote

So this week I have been on a "staycation" vacation from work. I've had the house to myself all week, so naturally I've been hard at work on the beetle. It's simply amazing how dirty this little car was underneath. From the front to back axle, cv joints and all was incredibly greasy, dirty, and nasty. So I've been under the car all week cleaning it all out. It also had some aftermarket undercoat spray all in the wheel wells/fenders, and it was done terribly. To top it off it was extremely dirty and filled with spider webs and wasp nest. I had to scrap it off with a puddy knife, and then cleaned it all down. This took a lot of elbow grease and a few hours of work! While under there I found the source to a lot of my grease issues around the transmission....a completely loose CV joint.

Question Question Question Does anyone know what size star bit works in the bolts that surround the CV Joint? My bolts were all loose and there was massive leakage as you would imagine.

Second question. Is this transmission fluid leaking from here? And whatever it is, how would I check or refill the level?

I also took off the poorly mispainted/primed glove box door, as well as the depth trim around the speedometer. Sanded, primed, and painted both black. Should be a massive improvement on the dash.

Recently ordered parts include an original '74 vac distributor in good clean working order. Also a pair of black rear interior panels off a 73 super beetle in great shape.

This beetle is coming along somewhat slower because I am rebuilding it, replacing a lot of pieces, while doing a light rebuild on the engine. My budget is exactly what the budget would be for any hard working married man that is starting a family. Laughing

Thanks for any answers! I'll get more photo's up when I get a new digital camera.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take your time and do it right. you won't be sorry. Rome wasn't built in a day.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2012 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CVs are held on with a 12 point star (triple-square) tool, 8mm.
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/12-Point-CV-Joint-Allen-Socket-3-8-Drive-7057-p/7057.htm

CVs should only have CV grease under there. I guess the side plates could be leaking though. Transmission fluid is checked with a 17mm hex, on the left side. Fluid should be even with the bottom edge of the hole.
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/17mm-Trans-Axle-Drain-Plug-and-IRS-Diagonal-Tool-p/7029.htm

Always loosen the fill plug #39 before removing the drain plug (bottom center) #37.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2012 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mnussbau wrote:
CVs are held on with a 12 point star (triple-square) tool, 8mm.....


Mike, thanks for the amazing help. It's so nice having people like you who will share such useful and helpful information on here. Thanks for going to the trouble to include the links! Now that I saw the diagram I know exactly where everything is located and it should be pretty straight forward now. Lord knows I've spent enough time down there this week.

Dwayne1m wrote:
Rome wasn't built in a day.


Funny you say that, I just said that same thing to myself today. I've made a lot of progress however. I've painted the speaker grills on the dash, the speedometer surround, and the glove box all with semi gloss black paint. An extremely nice upgraded look to the already black/white interior.
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