Little Advice please

[CoastalAirCooledVW]

[Wildthings]

[Danwvw]

Yes the above reply is right! Sometimes it's transaxle oil leaking but it has a different smell than motor oil so you can tell. Not a bad Idea to replace the transaxle input shaft seal every 10 years or 100,000 miles anyway! There is no big seal around your entire engine and transaxle bell housing where they meet.
Oil usually just starts leaking out the flywheel Main seal then it gets everywhere inside the big bell housing from there then drips out the center on the bottom where the trans meets the engine. The thing is when the main seal is leaking it is often a sign of another problem with your VW Type 1 Engine. If the engine has a lot of miles on it, The number 1 main bearing starts to become loose in the engine case and this causes the crankshaft to be able to plunge forward and backward and when this starts and the end-play exceeds about 10 or 20 thousandths it should be 4 thousandths of an inch this causes the seal to leak after a while. You can add end play shims when you change the main seal but if they won't take out the play the only solution is to rebuild the engine with all new bearings and seals and the case getting an align-bore at the machine shop! Note setting up the end-Play on the Type 1 VW engine with a loose thrust number 1 main bearing is a real trick as too many shims stops the engine from turning over. The thing may turn a little but it's your number 1 Main bearing moving until it hits a dow pin in the case and too few shims adds to the end play. It should be rebuit but I have done this and gotten another oil leak free 12K miles out of a worn engine. Use the better quality Orange Main Seals!
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[dennismafo]

Ok i was looking at those collapsible push rod tubes gonna pick a few up with seals knock that out.

The engine removal is the part that makes me nervous lol I'm sure it is easy it looks easy anyway.
but you do have to pull it all the way out? or can this be done just by tugging it to the back of the motor compartment?

I am looking around for the tin i need to close this bad boy in and also some type of support bar any suggestions here? I can tell you the engine is matched with a 5 rib tranny it seems to drive and shift very nice even my mechanic said so his concern was the oil leaks and breaks. i had not even really given that engine tin any thought. I bought this van for my driver and to use for my food vending cart business. I was hoping to do any major work end of summer after i get a few good months in and have a stack saved to blow on it.

May be a call to my uncle who rebuilds mussel cars is in order to over see this little job. He will help me but he wont tell me whats wrong with it lol

Yup just talked to him he said get the parts i want to replace and he will walk me through my first engine pull. He said get a list and parts I wanted to check and replace. I will attempt this next weekend this weekend i will replace front break system and push rod tubes/seals

so if you were gonna do this got a check list I can use?

[Danwvw]

It's going to be a bit of a challenge being it's your first time. Your going to need to be with someone that has done it before to get through this. Your going to need a level work space on which to do it. My drive way is gravel so I just put down plywood and the floor jack rolls ok on it with the engine. On a bus the engine just comes out the back of the bus. There is a rear tin that you remove either way that completely opens up the back space behind the engine. You don't have to work on the engine under the bus.

Just for the fun of it check the end play and let us know how bad it is! With your engine cold or warm not real hot and off, in neutral and e-brakes on, grab the rear crankshaft pulley and push and pull on it forcefully by hand and see if you can move it in and out, see if there is a bit of a clunk when doing this! If there is not hardly any play then it is likely you can get away with just the main seal replacement.
http://www.mofoco.com/category/VW_Flywheels/c131
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Stock-Gland-Nut-Flywheel-Bolt-Flywheel-Nut-p/111-105-305e.htm
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/VW-Flywheels-VW-Clutch-Pressure-Plate-s/105.htm

Perhaps someone that has done a type 1 engine in a type 4 engine bay can tell us how to do the rear mount! I have not tried this!
These work great for loosen and torque the flywheel gland nut.
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Flywheel-and-Brake-Drum-Torque-Tool-Kit-36mm-p/torque-tool.htm
You will also need a torque wrench to torque your clutch pressure plate and a light one like this will work with the above Flywheel Torque tool kit.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro-clicker-torqu...ockType=G4
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[Wildthings]

[1967250s]

First , I really think you need to find a Bentley or old Chiltons or Haynes VW manual or " The idiots guide to keeping your VW alive"( yes, its a real book). Look in your local library for vw books, too. I understand you're young and poor. Check the used book stores and then there is always ebay. You need to learn how to do mechanical work and learn what NOT to do. You can learn it on a Bus, but following the instructions is the best way to not screw it up.
Second, you might not need to remove the engine. I'd look at the oil cooler for a leak first ( which is more common and nobody else has mentioned??), before trying to pull the flywheel, which might be a bit much if you are just beginning.You should have a hatch, correct? You should be able to pull off the fan housing easily to change the oil cooler seals.
If you can, stay away from the collapsable pushrod tubes as they tend to leak and are a last resort.
You absolutely need the complete tin to keep the engine cool, or you will burn up the engine. Since your Bus originally had a Type 4 motor, you need a specially made set of tins. Can you post up some pics of your Bus and a couple good shots of the engine? That would give us all a better idea what advice to give you. ON the back of the engine is a code below the generator stand, get it and tell us. Also tell us where you are, there might be someone close that could help.

[Danwvw]

Thanks WildThings for catching my previous statement!
I can remove it, Never took out an type 4 before! Assumed they came out the same as my 1971. But with the Torque Master tool here->
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=452442 it's a breeze to loosen the flywheel, it has something like a 9 to 1 ratio for torque so something like 27 ft lbs will Torque the flywheel!
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[dennismafo]

I have the Haynes VW manual problem is the guy that sold it to me said it would cove this engine it does not so boo. Second I'm not young and poor I have 3 kids and a wife so I cant blow 3 grand on my bus lol. Like i said here in July I'm going to get it to a real VW mechanic and get some thing better put in right. My side business starts next month and i do well with it so the wife cant stop me

My uncle has any tool I would need and the know how to rip into it but he does not work with VW's
And you say that the engine compartment rear bottom does not come off this thing?? humm should be ok he has a lift ill just lift the van up off it

I tinker i can fix most things once i know whats wrong gonna check that oil cooler idea first thing in the morning. after we cleaned the engine the first spot we saw oil was dead center bottom of the engine/tranny connection running straight down. then it poped up around the sides and tubes. it leaked after we idled it for 5 min.

Thanks for the advice ill grab the non expandable ones if they work better the rod tubes i can handle.

If i do pull apart the engine what would you all recommend i replace since i have it off might as well fix some stuff.

1967250s i will get all this info tomorrow off the bus and see if i can get a few pics up. I live in Pennsylvania between york and Harrisburg.
I bought this bus cause i love them I had 4 when i was in high school and to help draw customers to my business. I hope this don't turn into a nightmare lol

[1967250s]

Apologies. Do you know Strasburgh's in York on Rt 30 they restore old VW's? I go by to visit friends in Reading. Sounds like you know what you're about.

[Desertbusman]

Couple comments-

-Search for Busdaddys topic on installation of an upright engine in a later Bay. I havn't followed it but I'm sure it would cover everything involved and with good info. If it's done right it's a great thing. Mess up here and there and it's not good. Yours has messups that need straightening out.

-Beware of a "generic" mechanic working on your bus that is not VW savy or experienced. It's a totally different type of creature and applying a lot of the normal wrenching methods will be harmful. Major functioning differences between water cooled and aircooled.

-Junk brand or style spring loaded pushrod tubes or not doing a good job of installing them are apt to be leakers. Doing it right and they are a wonderful thing to have available for your engines ills. I use tripple O ring tubes on both of my engines and they are fantastic.
Starting from scratch when doing an engine rebuild you would prefer the stock non spring loaded type. But in your case you are not starting a rebuild from scratch and to pull the heads to put in stock tubes would be a big mistake. you will disturb the head to cylinder seating and wish you hadn't touched them.

-Get the good book for you and your uncle to use. The Bentley manual. Use it for this engine and then for your later stock replacement. You need it anyway for brakes, steering and everything else.
Did someone say don't let a wrench touch your bus unless it follows VW's requirements and standards and not the plain old generic Ford or Chevy wrong standards?
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[dennismafo]

yeah its been a long time i used to stop in there a lot and try to talk them into sellin me a old split lol they never would. I do believe they are no longer with us. there was another grofts in hanover pa i heard they closed to.I used to go to grofts he worked on my old 74 with the big solid sunroof (wish i still had that it was my baby.)

only guy i know is about 2 hours from me in waynesboro pa or there is a shop on RT 22 towards allentown wolfs vw i believe

Desertbusman i will look for that post thanks. and that book

as far as the engine tin goes... i know i need it but untill i pick up the final build could i piece in a home made fill? like grab what i can stock and patch the rest? think this would work till i figure out what i want to go with?

[dennismafo]

AH360350 is the numbers on the block under the generator

Looks like a 48hp 1600 right?
How much use could i get out of this engine in a bus?

Trying to figure out the engine bar if i need an adapter plate and what bar.

thanks for that info to busbuddy's post helped a lot.

also thanks for the oil cooler info I read---
"Rob and Daves aircooled Volkswagon pages"
page about it, its spot on for where my oil is left side tubes and under front of engine and misting up top. May be i will get lucky here lol

upon reading it he talked about the transmission and engine not sitting together. As i am not sure about this really. there is a 5 rib tranny there, if he did not connect them right the engine tranny would not fit up to each other is this assumption correct? it drives fine so i assume the engine tranny are a match??

[dennismafo]

Here is a few pics may be they will help and a couple of the body
The oil seems to be collecting all over the bottom and the underside by that blue tube on the left. I have the heat exchangers and the tubes//fittings on order.

Ok i tried to get in around here to see if you can recommend the bar/adapter if needed. This area was a mess with oil the right side had some to but not to the degree this side did.

That thing on top is a home made rack not sure if its gonna stay on it rattles around but looks neat don't think I can put anything on it though

[Wildthings]

Your crankcase breather isn't hooked up to either your air cleaner as it should be or dumping underneath as is second best. As is it is spraying a fine oily mist all over the inside of your engine compartment.

The blue tube is an expandable pushrod tube. If it is leaking at the ends you can try gently rotating it to see if that will get the seals to set.

[dennismafo]

Ok breather line ill check that out.
see any other possible problems?

That blue one did not seem to be leaking. if any of them are its the middle ones on both sides but this could be oil running to them may be from that oil cooler like suggested.

I got a number for a guy to talk to about some tin tomorrow fingers crossed

[Danwvw]

I too would be tempted to put on new replaceable push rod tubes because the bottom engine tin is missing on your engine and it would be easy to do but the push rod tubes that work well like these below are $8 each, and is that where the oil is coming from? I just went through all of this on my bus in August, I pulled my heads and installed these that let me run 1.25 ratio rockers: http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1565
Good Quality Removable Push Rod Tubes.
http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/adets.qcfpr/v/vspfiles/photos/1558-2.jpg
Your engine:

Here is an interesting article if you have not seen it.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.vw-...CD0Q9QEwBQ
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[dennismafo]

the oil was all over after a good cleaning and ran it idle for 5 min oil appeared front center and down the sides a bit from the engine tranny connection. where exactly it was coming out I could not see. but most of the oil was on the lower left side around those tubes. I cant say for sure if they are leaking as the oil there was on the top side more...

[Desertbusman]

[Danwvw]

I would say this is all good advice. I had a couple of those brass looking but really aluminum push rod tubes on mine before and am not sure about them they seemed to seal ok as you can really tighten them but they would not clear my push rods as I was running the 1.25 ratio rockers. Here is a link to what mine looks like 6 months later after Open heart push rod tube surgery, and end-play adjusted. Wish I had changed the Main Seal!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6549821&highlight=#6549821
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!