Little Advice please

[dennismafo]

ok thanks for the tip I will look around for those tubes I know i need 1 for sure. gonna make the call to the closest VW guy i know he restores them so I am sure he would be the man to look at this thing or may have the parts i need.

[dennismafo]

ok upon further inspection of this oil leak, the transmission dead center by the front of the engine there is a hole in it?? its small and does not look natural. could it be leaking here??
can i seal this hole with a JB weld type of product? or is that hole suposed to be there?
and is that oil dirty tranny fluid?
also it appears that oil is coming from the top down popped the hatch out to look around the fan shroud oil in the back of the fan and around the bottom of the shroud.

[1967250s]

There is supposed to be a breather hole on the trans on the top at the back, just forward of the clutch housing. Do not block off! It allows the case to breath and likely not the cause, unless the trans was massively overfilled. Not really possible, as the trans fill hole is on the side about 2/3 up the side. If it was trans oil, you could smell the difference. It is a very heavy and pungent, smells like grease. If your main flywheel seal is leaking, it will only come out the bottom of the engine/trans mating edges where there is a small oil seep hole. If it is the oil cooler under the fan house, it will get blown all over the inside of the engine by the fan and be hard to locate. Since you have the offset oil cooler on the engine, it will have 4 oil seals. More likely it is leaking there on the case. Does the clutch slip when you are driving? Then it would be the main flywheel seal. If not, do the oil cooler seals first. I bet $$ to donuts it fixes your problem.

[dennismafo]

no the clutch is fine. I'm trying to get the fan shroud off.

Since its a 75 i have a top hatch, i took the little compartment off the left side and there is something that looks like a radiator fins... on the bottom each side is 2 little tubes that come out and have a clip on the ends. in this area bottom left i can see oil runs also the right looks to be very moist under that housing.

To get this shroud off....Take the bolts around the fan/generator off? pull throttle cable out and remove or is there more i can get at all the nuts having this hatch, with a little calmness lol

here is a couple pics of what i am talking about
this is the side i see runs down the tin toward the front side of the engine

[1967250s]

Battery disconnect first. Little radiator thing is your oil cooler! Remove wires to generator, loosen/remove clamp to generator. Two screws on side of fan house need removing. Looks like your original flaps are till there, disconnect from thermostat cable or rod, keep those flaps, they help warm up engine and extend engine life. Might have to loosen or remove oil cooler cover and wires to coil. It should then pull staight up with the generator. Actually, I am not sure,( some else help?? ) you might be able to replace the seals without removing doghouse. The oil cooler is bolted to a right angle mount which is bolted to engine block. You might be able to just unbolt the cooler and slide it off, then remove the mount if you can get your hands in there. 10 mm nuts if I remember right?
It might be a good idea to get it all off anyway, to clean the engine, cylinder fins and heads, if it is already all oily as it tends to build up and block air flow.

[Danwvw]

Did you take the engine out? Well if so yes remove that fan shroud clean everything up and install all new seals on that off-Set oil cooler! Make sure the oil cooler it's self is not leaking! remove the tin over your cylinders too and clean out all of the grim if any so your engine will cool better while your at it! The Main seal will leak between the Flywheel and the engine and not get on the clutch. Did you ever determine if your engine has any end-play? When your done make sure to put the cover back on the oil-cooler where you took the photos above.
Here is my engine out with fan shroud removed. Taken last August, Cleaned it up etc. Did not have any oil leaks around the oil cooler so I did not change the seals on my oil cooler: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1035790.jpg
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[dennismafo]

No I did not remove the engine i was working on getting the shroud off for a bit today. since i have that top hatch i should be able to get it out. I do not have any noticeable end play using the test an actual aircooled buggy mechanic told me to do. He is also working on finding me the tin/bar. He also suspects the oil cooler not the main seal as my leak.

I asked him about that jumpy clutch he said to check the front trans mount and blammo its shot it has a sheared off bolt i have to tap out and fix the whole thing.

Anyone got a picture of what it is to look like when its done? (Like it installed) its the mount that looks like a prong like (U) with rubber on each one i cant find a good pic of one installed.

wow nice picture there that oil cooler to remove it, is it the bolts on the bottom i see there? i assume its needs to come off to check and replace the seals

[Danwvw]

Well the front mount bolt probably broke because the rear mount was not there, Not sure about what your bus uses to mount the transaxle could not find much did find this:

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https://www.mo...mounts.cfm
Here are some more mounts: http://www.evwparts.com/volkswagen/ACEngineMount.html
It would be great if your oil leak is just the oil cooler and you can get that fan shroud off without pulling the engine. Got to be the hard way to do it though! The first time I ever changed a generator on my 66 bug I did not know anything about them and did it with the engine in the car. It's those little tin screws that get you! When you get that fan shroud off I hope you post a photo or two for us! Good to know your end-play is ok. Yes perhaps the main seal is not the problem. that oil spot did not look to be dead center it was a little to the left, a good indicator too, that it may be oil coming down the left side of the motor rather than between the flywheel and engine where it leaks when the main seal is bad.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[dennismafo]

yeah it would be nice i really don't want to pull the engine out. i think i figured out what bolts to take out if i free up the generator and tin i should be able to lift the whole thing out or tip it up out of the way.

I will try to snap a few pictures of the tranny i didn't see any mounts but i think i am looking for the wrong thing.

If i get it safe to run it goes to the VW mechanic for a going over And a deposit on a new engine

thanks for all the help i really appreciate it

The mount looks like this its held up by a big looking washer and 1 bolt it should have 2 and i don't think its supposed to be held held by a washer but may be. The prongs face the front of the bus its connected to the back to swivel up/down

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/pix/4689104.jpg

[1967250s]

VW engines are a lot tougher than you think. If the compression is good, and there aren't any bad indications like high temp or low oil pressure, they can be made to last a lot longer than one would think. If you can get the oil leak and missing tin fixed, it might be good for another 50 or 100K. Have the basics checked, compression, timing, oil pressure , general condition( like the trans and engine mounts and oil leaks, brakes, etc.), you may very well have a good Bus. Yes, plan on getting the engine fixed, but a new engine may not be necessary, unless you want to do that. Of course, there is the option of getting a bigger, more powerful, engine. Knowledge is the key. With it you can do anything. Learn all you can, and be patient.

[Danwvw]

It would be nice if the type 1 could be eventually replaced with the fully evolved 2.0 Liter type 4 engine, since this bus originally came with a type 4 engine.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[dennismafo]

OK oil cooler seals here today after getting the wrong ones sent to me. you guys were not kidding that thing was a bear to get off i am all cut up lol.

Anyway the bottom seals look new but the top not so much they are black in color and stiff and feel dry. all up inside the mount was fresh oil and sludge. the mount to block area was covered in oil to. this has to be my leak well i hope anyway.

it's all cleaned up and ready to go back in place

when i put this thing back on how much torque should i apply to the nuts? if its to tight it will leak still right?? or do i want that bad boy nice and tight

anything else i should look at before reinstalling it? it appears to be in good shape

[dennismafo]

well after replacing the seals it still leaks top down /sigh well i tracked down the proper engine for this beast i can only guess it has a cracked block

gonna pick it up and start fresh