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1835 Single port build!
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Matthew
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's the valve job like? A three angle would help flow.
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JRKman
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

3 angle Smile
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Matthew
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's gonna be sweet. I don't care what any of the Single Port haters say.
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Quokka42
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haters gonna hate.
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JRKman
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm pretty stoked.

So it's looking like its cheaper for me to just buy a set of 8 1.25 rocker arms. What's the benefit of only running them on the intakes? If I have 8 shouldn't I just run them all?

-Josh
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modok
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't recall how much lift a c-25 has anyhow, but if it is less than .450 with the 1.25 then shoot, run em all.
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JRKman
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

.365" with 1.1:1 and .415" with 1.25:1

What is the purpose of running them on intakes only anyways?

-Josh
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modok
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, you can have different reasons... but, usually in most engines, the intake valve is bigger so it has more lift.

Specific to the VWs, some heads have too much exhaust flow in comparison to intake, so you can dial it back a little with the rockers. And while running extra lift won't usually hurt power much, more lift wears out the guides faster, and you know the exhausts usually wear twice as fast as the intakes.......so there is that too.
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JRKman
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alrighty so you'd just run 1.25's all around with .415" of lift?
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ralf
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

engle w100 lift @ valve is 0.420" (most of the time 0.418")
engle w110 lift @ valve is 0.430" (most of the time 0.424")

and thats been run/used on alot of stock sized valve heads
from small 1776cc to slightly big 1900-2000cc range bus motors

generally working well, the valvejob and portwork would dictate that

so, with your cam
and SP , seeing you have a decent 3 angle valve job etc
0.415" would prolly be something your heads can take advantage of

the cam is smaller in duration vs the 2 mention cams above
prolly helps in giving you a smooth idle
+ you compensate on more lift, with the lesser duration (valve curtain area)

so as modok says, i think running both would be ok.. if not great! Smile
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Quokka42
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, the exhaust valve is lighter and stainless valves don't lose their heads as easily as the stock ones any way. The different rocker idea comes from Harleys, where the valves are canted toward each other so you have to avoid them hitting.
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JRKman
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome sounds like il be running 1.25's all around then.
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catbox
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JRKman wrote:
Looks like I'm gonna have to wait a few weeks for my case to be ready. What can I do while I wait for the case. Can someone teach me how to use Emory cloth so I can polish the journals and assemble the rods to the crank?

-Josh


If you used Steve's Machine Shop, I think he does the polishing while it is there. At least he did on mine.

I would call and check on it before doing anything to them.

Cool
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh that'd be nice. I pick everything up on Monday so we'll see if its done already.

-Josh
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got my stuff from balancing today. I had a very good experience through mikes precision machine so if you need balancing I do recommend him. I asked about polishing the crank and he gave me a worn out belt to use for polishing which I thought was pretty cool. I also resurfaced the flywheel while I had it there. Total came out to be $157.
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bvilletom
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been following this single port motor build for some time now. I have built several single port engines in the past 4 years, some for Bonneville racing & the rest for a VW baja Ariz desert exploring & prospecting car. For the desert car low end torque & smooth reliable operation are most important. The last desert motor was just a 1600 (69x85.5) with a real 8.5 compression ratio. And .040” deck stock cam with Hoover mods, with fully ported single port heads with no step, with a real Solex 30 PICT 1 blueprinted off road carb and EMPI exhaust. Also I used the heaviest 200mm flywheel I could find, it smoothes out the low rpm for rock crawling on tough trails.

I think the single port heads are greatly underrated for performance and can be made to perform very well. I have a Super Flow bench and have been modifying heads for many years. Most singleports can be made to flow equal to or better than stock dual ports, it’s about port shape, valve shape, and attention to detail. I will try to print out some result sheets with this post of last winter’s single port heads. More later on my current 1835 single port build.

Enclosed is a picture.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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tobiism
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bvilletom wrote:
I have been following this single port motor build for some time now. I have built several single port engines in the past 4 years, some for Bonneville racing & the rest for a VW baja Ariz desert exploring & prospecting car. For the desert car low end torque & smooth reliable operation are most important. The last desert motor was just a 1600 (69x85.5) with a real 8.5 compression ratio. And .040” deck stock cam with Hoover mods, with fully ported single port heads with no step, with a real Solex 30 PICT 1 blueprinted off road carb and EMPI exhaust. Also I used the heaviest 200mm flywheel I could find, it smoothes out the low rpm for rock crawling on tough trails.

I think the single port heads are greatly underrated for performance and can be made to perform very well. I have a Super Flow bench and have been modifying heads for many years. Most singleports can be made to flow equal to or better than stock dual ports, it’s about port shape, valve shape, and attention to detail. I will try to print out some result sheets with this post of last winter’s single port heads. More later on my current 1835 single port build.

Enclosed is a picture.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Sounds really cool, I would love to see more!
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I feel like installing the rods to the crank while I wait for my case. Anyone care to give me a step by step on the connecting rod install? Is it as simple as putting the bearings in, lubing and installing on crank? What measurements should I be taking?

-Josh
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 1:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plastigauge the bearings. If it is a bit loose when torqued up, gently sand the mating edges of the bearing shells on a piece of sandpaper on a sheet of glass, clean well and try again until they are within spec. Then re-oil and assemble.
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modok
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plastigauge and faith in the rods is about all you can do without a dial bore gauge.
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