Why can't I get my bus to idle (SOLVED)

[VW70BUS]

Ok.. I know this question has been asked and I have read a lot of those threads. I think now I am writing this as more of looking for guidance.

Ok my problem is my bus will start but but will never run long enough for me to walk back and do anything. Before I could feather the pump and kinda get to go. But it was a downhill battle.

What I have replaced.
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Coil
Distributor cap and rotor
Points and condenser.
Adjusted valves.
The cut off valve with g55
Carb has been cleaned and rebuild kit on it.
New battery
And some misc gaskets.

Static timed

Fuel pump is working

Carb has been adjusted to original spec.

As of today to get started I have to spray a little starting fluid it runs for about 10 seconds then dead.

My set up is 1600sp 205t distributor with a 30 pict 3 I can't get it to run long enough to check vacuum leak but when I have had a helper I came put my hand over carb and it seems to want to start but still dies.

Generator light is on.

Another thing I was thinking is ignition switch? It doesn't spring back when let go but I have put it back and left it on with no success this was gonna be my next crack at it.

But at this point I feel like I am playing a guessing game with money.

Any guidance or help would be appreciated.

Thanks for your time.

[Wasted youth]

Try to bypass the keyed ignition circuit (hotwire it), and if it does stay running, then you know that circuit has some open circuit issues.

Label, then disconnect all the primary wires from the coil except for the condenser. Run a test wire to the positive terminal of the coil from the positive battery terminal, then crank the starter from underneath the bus. Obviously, chalk the wheels, ensure it is out of gear FIRST!

I like to use a remote pushbutton type start switch for this scenario. Any FLAPS should have that, they are very useful and a lot safer.

Hope that helps.

[busdaddy]

Sounds to me like it starts pretty good but won't stay running.

Turn both screws on the side of the carb out (CCW) 1 turn and advance the timing ~5 degrees, once you can keep it running you can do the fine adjustment.
You may want to do something about that ignition switch too.
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[1967250s]

Things to check
IS fuelpump actually pumping when you crank? Fuel getting to pump? clogged lines? output of pump good? Is there fuel in carb? Can you see into carb w/mirror and see fuel going in? Fuel on spark plugs?
Is there spark to plugs? you know what to do there, I hope?
Is it turning over easily or is starter having hard time cranking? Easily= advance the timing, hard= retard timing

[Millennium Falcon]

I would definitely refrain from any further use of the "starter fluid". That stuff is very hard on small old air cooled engines when it explodes in the cylinders.
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"Don't worry, she'll hold together . . . You hear me, baby? Hold together!" -Han to the Falcon

1972 White Campmobile
1700 cc Type IV
Dual Solex 34 PDSIT2/3

[1975 Kombi]

Is the battery fully charged and in good condition?
Are the grounds clean and tight?
Do you have any pics of the motor in case someone can spot something?
Have you verified TDC with #1 valves closed with the cap and double checked the correct plug wiring?
Have you checked the condition of the plugs?
Have you done a compression check?
Did you set the float level on the carb?
Was it running well before, what is the history?

If you don't have a remote starter just the wire from the +Bat to the +coil and turn over the motor will work and eliminate the ignition. Can you confirm 12v at the coil after the engine dies. Don't touch the ignition switch after it dies and see if you still have 12v at the coil. Pull the fuel line off and have someone turn the motor over and check fuel flow.
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Brett

“He’s decieving you boy! Reach into his pocket and take what he’s got.” Mr. Crabbs.

75 Westy auto
03 Jetta TDI
71 SB
74 Westy
2011 Touareg TDI
2001 NB TDI
Licensed pilot (single engine land VFR)
--
Rust In Pieces: 72 Bug, 73 Bug, 81 Rabbit LS D 2D, 83 Rabbit D 2D, 84 Jetta TD GL, 85 Jetta D, 68 Z28 RS 302, 91 Passat 16v

[VW70BUS]

Ok I just got home from work and timed it at 5 degrees started much quicker but didn't effect the length of running time.

Will pick up a remote switch tomorrow.

Battery is brand new and charged.

May take carb off again and double clean.

This was a ran when parked motor lol in 1993.

Fuel pump is working but maybe I should take off and clean the screen

So today it started. Sounds like it's gonna run then drastically went to a lower rpm and stayed for about 3 seconds and died.

Thanks again for the info so far.

[Desertbusman]

It ran when parked 20 years ago? Stuff happens.


Sounds like a carb problem. 2 things you can do to check it.
-Immediatly after it quits look down the barrel with a light, pull on the throttle and look for spray from the accelerator pump.
-Immediatly after it quits pour about a tablespoon of gas down the barrel and see it it will start and run for a few seconds.



When it quits it is either not getting spark or not getting gas. Gas would be the normal cause for what you describe.

No need to buy a remote starter switch unless you want to. A 3 foot length of wire with a crimped connector on the end will do just as good. Climb underneath and pull the red/black wire off the spade terminal on the starter solenoid and plug your new wire on to the spade. Run the wire thru a hole in the body. Where the battery cable goes thru or the wiring harness hole. Touch the bare end of the wire to the battery positive terminal and bingo.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[Wildthings]

After 20 years every diaphragm and seal in the carb is probably shot as are most of the hoses. Kit your carb and replace all the vacuum lines and any boots in the intake air system. If you haven't done it yet replace your fuel lines with either 30r9 or 30r14 fuel hose. Any diaphragms in the system, such as the vacuum advance and air preheat flapper dashpod are also going to be suspect.

You could try adding a bottle of Carb/FI to your tank, it might fix your issues for now, but many will likely resurface. When this was parked they were just building 1994 models. How many of those '94 are still on the road? You have a lot of work to do to make this rig safe and dependable. Have you thought about the brakes yet? Being able to stop is way more important then having a running engine.

[VW70BUS]

Took the carb off and in process of checking every passage way possible. I bought a rebuild kit and installed last week double checking my work.

Yes I agree brakes are very important and will be gone through before driving has started.

Just really want to get it running. PO was original owner wants me to send him the video of it running when I do.

Thanks for all the help.

[Wasted youth]

Don't forget to post the results of what you find as you move along, doing so will help you receive more on-line help.

[Lionhart94010]

If you have read many carb threads, then have you tried loosening the idle jet to see it that helped? (i.e. enriches the idle mixture) also is the choke working properly and staying fully on by the time you walk back to the engine compartment? A cold ACVW needs a very rich mixture until the heads warm up…
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VW technical information sights
thesamba - www.ratwell.com - www.shoptalkforums.com/ - www.vw-resource.com - http://www.type2.com/
http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/ - www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm

[VW70BUS]

Lionheart yes to all of the above.

Cleaned it out and put some gas in the bowl it was full when I took it out. Tested it out of the engine. Gas is spraying nice down carb and did find some suspect debris in it so. Will test tomorrow afternoon and report back.

Confirmed fuel pump was working as well.

[Desertbusman]

So does it keep running if you give it some throttle? In other words is it only a dying while at idle problem or does it die at a higher rpm also?
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[1975 Kombi]

That carb may need to soak in some carb cleaner for a day or two depending on the quality of cleaner. Then spray carb cleaner in all the opening and passageways. Was the float bowl set correctly. Also check the exhaust for a mouse hut or obstruction.
_________________
Brett

“He’s decieving you boy! Reach into his pocket and take what he’s got.” Mr. Crabbs.

75 Westy auto
03 Jetta TDI
71 SB
74 Westy
2011 Touareg TDI
2001 NB TDI
Licensed pilot (single engine land VFR)
--
Rust In Pieces: 72 Bug, 73 Bug, 81 Rabbit LS D 2D, 83 Rabbit D 2D, 84 Jetta TD GL, 85 Jetta D, 68 Z28 RS 302, 91 Passat 16v

[Peabody]

Half the time (or more), PO's memory can fail them when recalling that it "ran when parked" so keep that in mind.

Triple Check your carb work. (Because it's free labor! ) Does the idle solenoid click when you have the key in the on position and disconnect and reconnect the wire to it?

Triple Check vacuum lines.

First check and recheck that the timing is right. I can't count how many times I've skipped this step thinking I had "just done it" and it was off enough to kill the engine. Check each plug and make sure each is making a spark.

It sounds to me like a fuel issue. The most inexpensive thing to do is take the carb apart and clean it thoroughly in a lint/dirt/dust/etc. area. New fuel filter (preferably out of the engine bay) if you already haven't. Put it back on and try. If that doesn't work...

It looks like you have an original fuel pump with the screen. Take that sucker apart and clean it up really good. Give it another try...

Where are you located in TN? I'm in Cookeville and will be in Nashville a lot when next week's finals are over. I believe I have a H30/31 that would fit on there to see if the carb is the problem.

I'm not the most experienced mechanic but every suggestion I have given is from personal experience with the same issues you're having. Good Luck!
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'71 Transporter "June" (traded a nissan hardbody + some $) (daily)
'76 Westy "Sandy" (traded an ak-47) (on hold)
'77 Westy (parts)
'74 Westy (parts)

[VW70BUS]

So today after cleaning it ran long enough for me to get back there and keep it running. Was a better sign.

Desertbusman now it does stay running while throttling if I tried to hold down throttle it started to die needs me to constantly feather throttle to keep going.

When I tried to just let it idle did last about 25 seconds on its own. Tried to adjust carb one turn out but didn't make a difference.

Feels like to me it's squirting down fine but without that squirt won't stay going.

Peabody I am in northwest tennessee near memphis. Thanks for the help.

Kombi I think iam gonna soak it good in the cleaner again and see if it helps seems like every time I clean it it gets better.

Battery is starting to lose its charge sounding kinda sluggish towards the end of me working on it today.

[ivwshane]

Does the 30 pict 3 have a choke similar to the 34 pict 3 that has to be adjusted properly for cold starts?
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77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab

[Wildthings]

[VW70BUS]

Yeah I check the automatic choke and it is set properly.