Installing Heater Tube

[Zylinderkopf]

I was replacing all my soft fuel lines and decided to take off the heater tube to get to the one by the transmission. The tube was old and brittle and came apart in my hand. Luckily I was able to order a new one from Wolfsburg West. They had different sizes and I bought the one that should be correct for my model year, but it's a bit longer and a tight fit! Finally got it in there... sort of. Maybe I should put clamps around the ends? Heat is working great now (not that I needed it today in Texas)

[KTPhil]

Yes, you should put a hose clamp around the tube and those prongs on the fittings. That will keep them aligned correctly.

[wayne1230cars]

When I installed this style of heater tube I found it very difficult. I then tried a heat gun on it and it easily slid on each end. It made for a huge difference in installation ease. You might try that and see if you can pull the non heater box end on a little further. I agree that a hose clamp would be a good idea.
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1960 beetle
1970 beetle convertible

[61SNRF]

When new even the originals are a tight fit and can be a struggle to get off and on correctly.

On a related note, the sleeve that is pictured loose in one end of your original should also be transferred to the new one to help insure a tight fit.

At this point in order to make them easier to remove is to take the car out for a good road test with the heater on before you do the work. Warm plastic is much more pliable than cold.
At that time you can install the sleeve, the clamps and also straighten the hose as you clamp it down. Try to get it straight and aligned with the body duct best as practical for optimum air flow.

Finding clamps may be an ordeal as run-of-the-mill worm clamps will be too wide. You want to use a thin clamp similar in style to the engines fresh air hose clamps. The clamp should be about as wide as the tangs will allow without crushing the ends flat.
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-Bruce

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

[Zylinderkopf]

Thanks everyone....will track down some clamps and install that sleeve from the original. I will also finally break down and buy a heat gun...seems there are a thousand uses for them (although I'm not sure I will use one this close to a fuel line).

[Todd66]

If it is too long I believe the one end unscrews and you can cut to length. It may not be much of an issue in Texas, but if your replacement one is like mine, it has a coiled wire inside instead of the mesh screen the original has. These are to keep the insulation from collapsing in. The coiled wire does not work and you will lose airflow. Transfer the wire mesh from the original. Just unscrew the end and swap.

[Zylinderkopf]

Todd66: thanks for the tip. Good thing I kept the mesh

[suebug]

I have a late '67. I am missing one heater hose. My original one still on the car is VW 113 255 357B (the 60 mm end). I am wondering what the difference is if the letter after the numbers is different, like an "A" or a "C" instead? Any help appreciated. (Possibly B is left side and C is right side????)
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'67 Beetle
'67 Squareback
'66 Sundial
'60 Single cab
'70 Bitchen 3-speed Schwinn

[suebug]

Is there anywhere in the Beetle forums where the parts with numbers are listed? Over on the bus forums I've had that resource. Everett????
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'67 Beetle
'67 Squareback
'66 Sundial
'60 Single cab
'70 Bitchen 3-speed Schwinn

[EverettB]

You would have to search to see if anyone has posted the part #s for those hoses.

I have not seen a resource for an online Beetle parts look up, apart from just using Google.

A/B/C are typically different versions. For instance B may be the earlier 50mm size. (I am not saying this is the case but this could be a reason for a B -> C change)
Different sides have odd/even parts #s, if something has a left and right part.
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