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bosruten Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2011 Posts: 563
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Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 6:23 pm Post subject: |
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| jackbombay wrote: |
| For those that haven't mounted their panels yet I recommend mounting them on the passenger side of the vehicle for 2 reasons, 1, to offset westy lean, the weight of the kitchen on the passenger side of the van, and 2, so you can still load a canoe on roof racks and not shade your panel, with the panel in the middle anything large on the roof rack will cover a goof piece of the panel, but with the panel pushed all the way the the passenger side you'll still get sun to most/all of your panel... |
My panel weights under 2lb's. I plan to build a roof rack that sits ahead of the solar panel so I keep some weight in the middle of the van. _________________ '87 Syncro Weekender |
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jackbombay Samba Member

Joined: October 19, 2007 Posts: 2725 Location: Portland Oregon
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Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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| bosruten wrote: |
| I plan to build a roof rack that sits ahead of the solar panel so I keep some weight in the middle of the van. |
Keeping the most weight as far back as possible really makes a big difference when it comes to popping the top, I'd install the panel in the middle and the rack at the back, you can stand on the rear bumper to get at it, or on one of the rear tires. _________________
Gas struts to pop your top easily!
Pop Top strut kits now available for late Bay window Westies
Samba ad here.
DIY artificial rain gutters (ARGs) |
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bosruten Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2011 Posts: 563
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Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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I could always order stronger poptop shocks except, I can't remember where on earth I bought them!  _________________ '87 Syncro Weekender |
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jackbombay Samba Member

Joined: October 19, 2007 Posts: 2725 Location: Portland Oregon
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Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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| bosruten wrote: |
I could always order stronger poptop shocks except, I can't remember where on earth I bought them!  |
Yea, but that is a bit of a trade off because when weight is mounted further forward there is a greater difference in the force needed to pop the top between loaded and unloaded.
Example, you can add 40 pounds right over the roof hinge and it won't make a huge difference on the effort you need to exert to pop the top, and you could remove it and not notice the difference a whole lot. If that same 40 pounds was mounted up front and the top was popped and lowered and then the 40 pound weight was removed the difference would be huge.
I think I've explained that accurately.
And I think I might know a guy....  _________________
Gas struts to pop your top easily!
Pop Top strut kits now available for late Bay window Westies
Samba ad here.
DIY artificial rain gutters (ARGs) |
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ryecatcher Samba Member

Joined: January 02, 2014 Posts: 81 Location: Tampa, Florida
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Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 4:21 pm Post subject: |
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I received my Thin Solar Panels from Renogy
These are way thinner and lighter than I thought they would be. The black part in the side-view picture is the wire, which is almost thicker than the panel itself. I was told by Renogy that most people are mounting this with velcro, so my plan is to get some industrial-strength velcro and mount it on the roof, right in the middle of the pop-top (no skylight to worry about).
Next step: wire them up and mount them. Endless cold beer, here I come!
[/img] _________________ 1982 Westfalia Camper, Air Cooled
"Wendeline" |
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yycwesty Samba Member
Joined: August 20, 2012 Posts: 403 Location: Calgary
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 9:26 am Post subject: |
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Ryecatcher
What is the watts and where did you purchase the panel..Was it a kit
Cheers
Al |
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Steelhead Samba Member

Joined: February 25, 2007 Posts: 1791 Location: Kentfield, CA
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 11:22 am Post subject: |
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any thoughts on these Evergreen panels? Seems like an excellent value (watts per dollar) and a fairly thin profile case... though I wasn't seeing efficiency rating.
http://www.solarblvd.com/Solar-Panels-&-System..._info.html
_________________ '77 Bay Window / '89 Caratsburg (aka. the Stormtrooper) |
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moremorevan Samba Member
Joined: April 10, 2012 Posts: 92 Location: Portland
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bosruten Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2011 Posts: 563
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 1:15 pm Post subject: |
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I found prices varied wildly, but little else. SAW Technology is located in Ontario, I'm in Canada so....
I still don't have my panel energized but will report back when I do. _________________ '87 Syncro Weekender |
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DeadSetMonkey Samba Member

Joined: April 15, 2010 Posts: 532 Location: Denver, CO
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 2:15 pm Post subject: |
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| bosruten wrote: |
I found prices varied wildly, but little else. SAW Technology is located in Ontario, I'm in Canada so....
I still don't have my panel energized but will report back when I do. |
FWIW, can not import a panel from Canada to US without a hefty (~200%) tariff attached. _________________ ----------------------------------------------------
'90 Syncro Westy 2.5Subi Turbo, BFGs 215/75/15 Rheins |
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bosruten Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2011 Posts: 563
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 2:24 pm Post subject: |
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| DeadSetMonkey wrote: |
| bosruten wrote: |
I found prices varied wildly, but little else. SAW Technology is located in Ontario, I'm in Canada so....
I still don't have my panel energized but will report back when I do. |
FWIW, can not import a panel from Canada to US without a hefty (~200%) tariff attached. |
Okay...anyway, buy from http://www.renogy-store.com/100watts-bendable-panel-p/rng-100db.htm for $100.00 cheaper than I paid. They are located in CA. _________________ '87 Syncro Weekender |
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kybishop Samba Member

Joined: July 29, 2013 Posts: 58 Location: Where the wind is blowing, the mountains calling, and the adventure waiting
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 2:57 pm Post subject: |
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Those Renogy panels look awesome!
@ryecatcher any thoughts on how many one could squeeze on the roof without covering the hatch or trailing off the edges of the roof (at least not by more than a couple inches)? |
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ryecatcher Samba Member

Joined: January 02, 2014 Posts: 81 Location: Tampa, Florida
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 3:36 pm Post subject: |
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I did indeed buy them from Renogy, directly. My total order was $260; I got the panel, the charge controller, and some extra cabling. Free shipping.
I don't have my van back yet (she's getting worked on – more on that when I get her back), but as soon as I have her, I'll get on top and see about placement, etc. When I measured it out, it seemed like you could easily put two up there, maybe even four (not sure why you would want to, though; more batteries would be better). They are 100 watt panels, with about 20% efficiency. FWIW, it was making power at sunset inside my house, though I didn't measure output.
I can't wait to try it out – going for an extended ramble next week  _________________ 1982 Westfalia Camper, Air Cooled
"Wendeline" |
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ryecatcher Samba Member

Joined: January 02, 2014 Posts: 81 Location: Tampa, Florida
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Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 11:07 am Post subject: Thin Solar Panel Install, complete |
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(Warning, long, with details and pics)
I finally got around to installing the Renogy Thin Solar Panel (100W) on the van, and wiring it up into the system. The whole process took a little under three hours, and that included cleaning out the van and re-wiring the house battery stuff.
Overall I'm very pleased with how it looks. My goal was stealthy (as much as can be, anyway), no holes drilled in the van, and decent power to charge the house battery / run a fridge and fan. I think it accomplished these goals.
Here's a step by step, to add to the collective knowledge here:
First, I decided where to install it:
Towards the back worked better, as I'm going to run the cabling through the back hatch. I didn't want to drill a hole in the fiberglass, so I just ran the wires out the back to the inside of the hatch, but outside of the seal:
Note I did not attach the panel yet (I saved this for the end).
There is a opening into the body where the defrost wire enters. A black rubber grommet protects the wires, but the metal was very smooth there without the rubber, at least on my van. I popped out the rubber and ran the wires from the solar panel through. Because of the size of the plugs, you'll have to disassemble them. Just unscrew the base, then pop the whole thing off. Now you can feed the wires into the defrost wire hole through the body, to a little hole in the upper left hand part of the cabinet, where the ground wire for the defrost exits:
Now, reassemble the connectors to the solar panel wires, taking care to keep the positive wire to the positive plug, and negative with negative. When you're done you'll have the connectors nice and readily accessible in that little compartment:
I cut some room in the grommet to make it bigger and shoved it back in there so nothing frays. Next, I ran the wires that came with the panel, which have their own respective connectors. I just pushed them through the back of the wardrobe, underneath the wardrobe to where the water tank is, caught them and fished them through the little hole where the water lines run, and they ended up in the right cabinet:
I decided to install the charge controller here, and run heavy-duty wire (don't know gauge, but it's what Renogy sells for longer runs), to the battery. I ran it out the battery case, through a little existing cut-out to the back of the "cupboard" cabinet under the sink:
Routed through the back:
and behind where the fridge would be (mine is out, which made life easy) and into the cabinet underneath the charge controller, up though the water-line cut-out, and to the charge controller. Here it is all installed and wired together:
Then it was just a matter of wiring it all. Do this all with the solar panel unplugged. From charge controller directly to the battery, from battery to the Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block, then the fuse block goes to whatever you want to power. I have a 2 12v 2 usb distribution box, and 12v lighting. I can always add more to this, too. Minimalist, but it does what I need:
Connected up the solar panel, and everything works, first time! The battery is getting charge, and can run the fan and fridge.
Now, back to the outside, to mount the panel. On Renogy's advice, I used industrial strength velcro. I haven't taken it out on the highway yet, so I'll update if it blows off! The panel is so low-profile that I can't imagine it catching wind.
From the top:
From the back:
A side view:
Looks good. The only thing I don't like are the two wires sticking out the back, but it was either that or drill holes. I'll keep you all updated as to its durability. For now, I just feel better knowing the battery is getting charged at all times. _________________ 1982 Westfalia Camper, Air Cooled
"Wendeline" |
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TommyBoyGomes Samba Member
Joined: May 28, 2005 Posts: 1535 Location: L.A./Dublin, Irl
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Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 1:48 pm Post subject: |
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Cool, how many amps are you putting into the battery (or into the charge controller) with this setup? _________________ 1969 Squareback, 1776cc
1990 Vanagon Multivan |
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bosruten Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2011 Posts: 563
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Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 7:05 pm Post subject: |
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Nice install Ryecatcher.
Here is mine. I chickened out and used nuts and bolts along with the velcro. Since I drilled holes for the panel, I figured drilling for the wires was inline. I used two Trojans under the seat, they are a tight fit! I've tried to make use of the space under the weekender seat by mounting the inverter/charger, charge controller, breaker, panel, auto charging relay and Propex. It still leaves room for my tool box and and other knick knacks. So far I'm happy.
_________________ '87 Syncro Weekender
Last edited by bosruten on Sat Apr 19, 2014 6:52 am; edited 1 time in total |
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morymob Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2007 Posts: 4683 Location: east-tn
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 5:16 am Post subject: |
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| AS already asked, what is max amperage/12V setup of panel From factory specs?? Are they mono type cells?? I juust pulled up SAW site, both flex & nonflex R mono cells. Specs for non flex is 5.55 max amps, 17% eff, flex ones, same 100 W is 5.62 A & 22% eff, ?? Sure don't see $150 more(mine same specs/nonflex) 4 just this small amt. |
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ryecatcher Samba Member

Joined: January 02, 2014 Posts: 81 Location: Tampa, Florida
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 6:35 am Post subject: |
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I don't have an amp meter, so I'm not sure how many amps the battery is getting. The website lists 5.62 max Amps for the 100W flex panel.
One of the problems I had with the house battery is that it would never get charged enough on short trips around town. Plus, the Go Westy kit seems really limiting as far as the charge it allows. I know I ran the battery down too much at least once when I napped with the fan on. Woke up and voltage was real low. I'm hoping I didn't kill the battery, and that it'll be able to hold a charge. _________________ 1982 Westfalia Camper, Air Cooled
"Wendeline" |
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yycwesty Samba Member
Joined: August 20, 2012 Posts: 403 Location: Calgary
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 7:16 am Post subject: |
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I contacted renogy yesterday and asked them to put a package together for me including a mppt charger/100watt thin solar panel and cable..Once I get a price back I'll post that for anyone who's interested.
One thing they asked was how much cabling would I need in the package. I said 25ft..Would that be accurate if I ran the cable off the rear of the van to a wall mounted charger and then into the two trojan 6volts under the passenger side of the rear bench (not near my van so unable to measure that length)
Cheers
Al |
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advantageaction Samba Member

Joined: May 30, 2012 Posts: 64 Location: Delta, BC
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Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 12:01 am Post subject: |
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Maybe message Curt Long from Maple Valley. He just sourced a number of 125W flexible panels out of China. Made with USA cells. He has them taped to his roof as a temporary demo of the system but plans on having an aluminum base and stainless brackets made for mounting. Pretty cool setup.
I just got back from 42 days on the road and our 190W mono panel performed brilliantly. Lots more weight though.
Cheers!
Barry |
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