Front heater core cut off valve. Is there such a thing?

[devesvws]

i just got a new one where did you get yours and who makes it??
_________________
THE FEW THE PROUD THE ORIGINAL VW WATERBOXER -> looking for a original 91 vanagon owners manual with 1991 on the cover http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmuiG2tUsP4&feature=share https://picasaweb.google.com/101290228103300323836/BostonBobFlywheelVideo#5543000332201103922

[Darren2dream]

Got it local, can't recall who made it but, I wouldn't go that route again
_________________
84' Wolfsburg Westy GL 1.9 Manual

[Bercilak]

I guess you could do that OK; you might consider just linking both sides together, and draining the coolant from the upper part. Then it'd be circulating, but the valve would be out of the picture.

FWIW, I had to replace a bent wire for the heater slider today. 30 minutes to do everything else; 2.5 hours to try and get the clip over the sheath an onto the heater valve. The Gods had mercy on me and finally caused the clip to break, allowing me to jury-rig a fix ~ used two zip ties to get the wire sheath to stay appears, to be working, but:

This is absolutely the stupidest bit of engineering I've encountered on an otherwise well thought out vehicle.

The valve should be (as Terry's is), inside the cabin immediately underneath, or adjacent to the heater itself.

If VW was worried about spillage/spray from a failed valve inside the cabin, they ought to have: A. Used a better part (one made of brass or something), or B. put it in a place more reasonably accessible.

FWIW, next payday, I'm ordering TK's valve and putting it aside for when the stupid wire slider fails again

Thanks for the fix, TK ~ I don't feel like making one myself at ACE...

B.

Best,

B.

[photogdave]

That stupid valve is the fatal flaw of the whole van!
It took a couple of us a couple of hours to replace mine as well. Same problem - that $#@!ing clip!!!
New piece of crap Meyle was leaking a couple of days later and I broke the stupid thing trying to re-clamp it.
I've got a brass shutoff valve jammed n the hose for now but it's going to the shop tomorrow for a proper fix. I can't spend that much time on my back in my driveway - the physiotherapy would be more expensive than the garage bill!
_________________
89 Syncro GL Westfalia 2.1 WBX/WBXaustSS

My Westy Movies:
photogdave On Vimeo
photogdave On YouTube

Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[Terry Kay]

My original findings on "Da clip" doomsday removig & replacing was--the job made my finger's & hand look like chopped liver.

You have to be a contorsionist to get to it, and it has some wicked sharp edges that will bite--especially when your trying to get the damn cable to stay put in the right place, while your trying to snap the clip down tight.

It is is a piss poor design, could have for sure been situated in a better place--anywhere besides where it is.
Talk about being buried & tough to get to.

The severe lacerations, the adjectives I was using this one particular day, while doing what should have a basic simple job compelled me to come up with a better idea---

Hench the birth of the internally mounted Parker valve.

I want to suggest this one idea again.

While if situated properly inside of the van, it is pretty easy to get to.
Simple.
But thinking beyond & out of the box, it would be a even better set up if an accessory valve is mounted under the van, back prior to the rear heater T's on the heater feed hose.

It'll give you more bang for the buck, and completly shut all of the heat down for the summer.
The plastic rear heater core valve is no prize either.

It's a beautiful thing, and maybe, yea--you'll get the back side of your white T-shirt dirty flipping the lever under the Van, but I've heard from a bunch of folks who decided to make this move and it works well.

Something else to consider.
_________________
T.K.

[Wildthings]

I think a good solution would be to pick up a generic heater valve from your local FLAPS and then install it inside the van and adapt the original cable to work with it. Shouldn't take all that much effort to figure out. Even a generic valve installed in the original location shouldn't be all that hard to figure out.

[Bercilak]

Wildthings,

I agree, that would probably work, but today was the next-to-last time I will be screwing around with that valve.

I don't like that I have to drop the spare to get to it, and then it's tight up in there next to the radiator fan; it could just have easily been above the fold, so to speak, on the right side of the heater assembly, or below it, behind the fan.

Since I live in SoCal, I have the luxury, if you will, to use TK's solution with a minimum of hassle. I'll turn the heat off in, well now (that was the point of today's exercise) and back on in November.

I might at some point try to figure out how to fab up a real valve that can be adjusted with the slider, but I'm not too sanguine about my chances; that slider assembly is no prize either. If I do, though, you can rest assured that the valve will be accessible from somewhere OTHER than the bottom of the car!

Thanks for your insight and advice, here and re: the exhaust manifolds; I really appreciate how much you guys help me understand and fix my van.

Best,

B.

[Darren2dream]

Thanks all for chiming in here and honestly, helping me calm my frustrations down a bit. I guess I'm not alone battling this weak valve... A new part just shouldn't leak after 2 months.

I'm absolutely going to put in the TK style valve under the dash to control the heat going forward but, it does kinda break my heart to no longer be able to control the heat from the in dash heat control leaver... I live in the CA Bay Area and we have days in summer that need heat and days in winter that need A/C. Removing the dash cover and adjusting a valve mid trip will not instill a massive amount of trust from any passengers.

If the standard valve was in a more easily accessible place, I focus on fixing it proper. For now, I dont have the time or patience.
_________________
84' Wolfsburg Westy GL 1.9 Manual

[Wildthings]

If you install a generic valve inside the cab, for now you could just easy reach up and move the lever on the valve itself, while eventually you could rig up a way to hook up the dash lever. Not saying that TK's valve is bad, but I think there are better options for people who need to turn their heat on and off frequently. Maybe TK could come up with a kit that would have everything needed to install a better than OEM cable operated valve.

[Darren2dream]

Tonight was awesome!
I pulled the leaky front heater valve, put in a straight brass hose connecter there, then put in a new brass ball valve under the dash.. I placed the valve just right so I can still turn it on/off without removing the lower dash part or interfering with the glove box. Really happy about that. All in, took about 1.5 hrs most of that was preparation & clean up.

I used two hose clamps while making each switch and didn't bleed the system after. Didn't even lose a drop of coolant somehow... ok, maybe just one drop.

Now we can take off camping this weekend with 1) no coolant leak 2) heat at our beckon call and 3) if we dont need heat, no Hotfoot!

So happy!!
_________________
84' Wolfsburg Westy GL 1.9 Manual

[Vasa]

I purchased Terry Kay's shut-off valve-- it works perfectly.

[MacFhearguis]

Bringing this back to life for a few.

Is it safe to entirely delete the stock VW control valve? I've got a new one in that leaks right out the gate, and worse than the old one!

I'd like to replace the heater line from the plastic barb all the way to the cab, and install a TK-style ball valve.

Will this effect the function of the cooling system as a whole, or am I just substituting one valve for the other and worrying too much that I might affect the cooling system?

Thanks all.

G

[Darren2dream]

MacF, yes it's safe.. You are just swapping one (poorly made plastic one that leaks) for another one in a slightly different location. I found that if you put it in just the right spot, you'll still be able to adjust the heat while driving...

I do miss just using the original dash control though. Seems a bit janky to control the heat by reaching down by the passengers left shin.
_________________
84' Wolfsburg Westy GL 1.9 Manual

[MacFhearguis]

Thanks for the confirmation.

I agree it is a bit bodgy, but I'd rather a non-leaking van than the prospect of a new control valve bad out of the box again.

[joseph928]

Following this, put in valve this weekend. On a 1987 syncro, we put in a new heater control valve and a shut off valve . But after all the talk about how hard it is to get to, we took out the radiator set on a stool and took out the stock valve, to easy. Then used a Libbie bong and all done!
_________________
1987 syncro westy tin top sun roof , GW2.3, rear locker, decoupler, Gary Lee tire rack & winch mount, lift, south african grill, big brakes , rhein alloy ,15 BFG AT, Fiamma 10 foot awning ,140 watt rear 85 watt front solar , mppt, truckfridge, automatic fire extinguishing system, tencent oil cooler, And a RMW SS exhaust! - 1971 bug convertible 1776 engine- 2010 Subaru turbo - 1993 Toyota 4x4 truck - 1999 Harley 95 CI, big bore, Andrews cams . Also 80-84- vans. Stock 65 sunroof bug.

[singler3360]

Has anyone successfully rigged up a dash mounted control switch for Terry's ball valve? Like an earlier poster mentioned, our seasons can change daily or by elevation change. It's awkward and cumbersome to reach behind the front vent cover while driving.

Any pics on how it attaches to the lever at the valve?

I'd rather not replace Terry's valve and just want something that looks nice on the dash that works. Can be cable driven or otherwise.

Thanks.

[Terry Kay]

I don't think that the lever on the valve wil support a cable pulling and pushing on it.
How difficult can it be to lean over a hair and flip it on or off with your thumb & index finger?

I'll have to come up with an electric motor model for the physically impared--
_________________
T.K.

[singler3360]

[Terry Kay]

I don't think you neccessarily mounted it in the wrong place, I just have never been asked if it can get closer to the driver so it can be that accessable.

For me--who mounted it back under the van for a seasonal off--it wasn't even an option.
Here In the Midwest, it's either seasonally Hot or Cold, so fine tuning it wasn't a consideration.
If your going up & down mountain passes I can see where this might be an issue.
And also for me and for the most of the folks in the "flats" in the summer, the main reason I came up with that 100% positive shut off valve was so the AC system in the Van didn't have anything competing with it-- Cold Air only.
_________________
T.K.

[Crankey]

I'm going to install this ford valve. I don't like dead ending the coolant flow to the heater core.

it flows like this