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Bostig RG1 install group....anyone? Also RG2 etc!
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alnvilma
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Almost forgot that I fixed a leak like yours:
It was coming from that plastic thermostat housing seal.
I replaced the whole unit rather than just the O ring. Thought perhaps it warped but inspection just showed the seal to be a little smushed in...
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buildyourown
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 10:21 am    Post subject: Re: coolant leak Reply with quote

sailboat100 wrote:
My engine has sprung a leak. Coolant is dripping off the bottom of the crank puuley. I havent had a chance fully investigate. I wondered if anyone has had a similar problem.
Thanks Brian


Interestingly, mine has done the same. I supect water pump.
I put a new pump on the engine when I prepped it for install. The first one I bought was a chinese POS, and I wasn't any more impressed with the 2nd.
I put it on anyways and remembered it leaked a little at startup.
I'll be buying Ford OEM this time.
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buildyourown
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since this has become the defacto thread for people updating their older Bostig installs, has anybody done the newer 4pt exhaust mount?
I'm having some issues, including an exhaust leak right behind the muffler. I have lean on it pretty hard to get it to clear the hoses and the muffler connection doesn't really line up right.
I'm considering rolling my own since $150 seems steep.
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buildyourown
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, has anybody done the newer cobra intake boot with an older throttle cable?
I'm not sure when or how they changed, but mine if from G16. I also have a spare that I think must have been from an earlier build. They sent me 2.
Not sure if it's any longer.

I don't really want to go to the trouble and cost of buying a new cable and installing it.
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mtwesty84
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2014 6:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am getting ready to do both of these. I have the 4 point and ordering the RG3 Cobra intake and getting a new Focus Airbox you must have the new Throttle cable and original throttle mount.


buildyourown wrote:
Alright, has anybody done the newer cobra intake boot with an older throttle cable?
I'm not sure when or how they changed, but mine if from G16. I also have a spare that I think must have been from an earlier build. They sent me 2.
Not sure if it's any longer.

I don't really want to go to the trouble and cost of buying a new cable and installing it.
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redeyeksc
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time to replace my 20$ wrecking yard alternator. Anyone have a brand recommendation for the replacement? Or is any alternator going to do the trick?
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84 Westfalia, now with Bostig Zetec 2.0L, Manual Transmission
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JudoJeff
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alex,
Here's what my notes say: "Alternator: 1999 Ford Cougar 160A+ Motorcraft 10346 or 10V346 NOT computer controlled!"

You can go with a lower amperage unit based on your needs, but I wouldn't go below 90A.

I bought mine off EBay, but don't recall the vendor.
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig.
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indytriple
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just replaced mine with this one for a '99 Ford Contour 2.0L (what Bostig recommends):

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=474695

Rock Auto part #92502

I'm sure there are several others out there that would work, but I went with what they suggested.
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countrybicycle
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 8:59 am    Post subject: Bostig will not start Reply with quote

I have just completed the installation of my RG3 kit. And it will not start! I trouble shot all the usual suspects. Fuel pump runs, I get spark at the plugs, the injectors click when tested with 12v lead from the black box power post and a ground to body. The curious thing is that there is no unburnt gas smell at the exhaust and the plugs are dry even after sustained attemps to start. It seems that none of the injectors are firing. I could understand one or all being slightly clogged but these seem to not be getting a signal to release gas at all. I have continuity at the injector wiring harness to the injectors. I am stumped what to trouble shoot next. I have sent a trouble ticket to Bostig but it's the weekend and they are probably doing weekend things. I need to have this on the road tomorrow - the intent was to finish the install over the holiday break since my van is school bus as well as a daily driver. Please help!
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kourt
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Confirm that your injectors are not clogged. This problem is extremely common.

I know you say you checked it, but check again...

I did it the following way:

Make your working environment quiet. Turn off the radio/fan/kids/etc.

Find a 12v power supply (a car battery would do just fine), attach some old 2-conductor wire (like old speaker wire) to the pos/neg leads of the power supply, and then touch those leads independently to the two contacts on each fuel injector.

You will have to get very comfortable and do this for about 10 minutes per injector. Yes, 10 minutes.

Do it until you hear the injector click (this is why you need a quiet work area)... then do it more until it clicks reliably... and then move on to the next injector.

Perhaps a clogged fuel filter? Fuel pump leads backwards? Crossed fuel pump leads are also common.

kourt
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westylife
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you using the coil pack that came on the engine or did you replace it? Take it off and look at the bottom. If there are any cracks, the coil pack may be bad. Mine looked brand new but was shot.

Did you flash the ECU? Mine wouldn't start until I programmed the ECU. Once I did that, it fired right up.

WL
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JudoJeff
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you carefully followed Bostig's instructions, and it won't start, it may be a bad ECU. kourt's idea of reversed fuel pump leads are what I'd check first.

Keep in mind Bostig has to see your first run log, and approve a longer run around the block. Then you load in the final tune for your engine. Rushing this might ruin all of your work. ie. I had a problem with overheating.
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig.
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countrybicycle
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will try the 12v to the injectors again. I was getting reliable clicks the first time. I did this from each injector but I only click each maybe 10 times.

The am almost certain the leads at the pump are correct because I can hear the gas gurgling back into the tank from the return line but I'll reverse what I have to rule that out.

The coil, wires, plugs and most sensors are new.

I accidentally tried to start before I flashed the ecu then realized I was supposed to do that first. I successfully loaded v400 that Jim sent but still no start.
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LeftCoastKiteboarding
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the fuel pump wired backwards on my conversion. Check that for sure. Cost me an hour of swearing.
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countrybicycle
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have my black fuel pump wire to the pole marked negative and the red on the positive pole but I reversed them for spits because I have nothing else at this point. Still no go. It's got to be something simple like that though because the motor will run with fuel shot into a vac port
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LeftCoastKiteboarding
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check your fuel lines. I also had the lines to the fuel rail reversed. Cost me another hour of swearing. If those lines are reversed, no go.

Could also pull the fuel send line and CAREFULLY/SAFELY turn the key on for a brief second and confirm that fuel is actually coming out of the line. If it is, you know the problem is in the injector rail.

You'll get it!!
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countrybicycle
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuel lines are correct and I do get flow through the rail. I have fuel from the pump going into the nipple closest to the front of the van and fuel returning to tank at the regulator.

Keep me coming folks! Collective mind stuff. Thanks in advance for all your help.
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kourt
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I noticed that the injector rail wiring harness plastic manifold could easily pop off the injectors and cause partial or full failures. In one case mine lifted off the #4 cylinder side of the engine, leaving me running on three cylinders.

I would be looking at kinks in the hard plastic fuel lines. Fuel pressure regulator failure? Did you take everything off the FI rail and inject some carb cleaner in there--really making sure it is clear? To do it right you would have to remove the injectors entirely to flow the carb cleaner out of the injector mounts.

kourt
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countrybicycle
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The wire rail is fully seated. I'm going to pull the whole assembly and lay it on a try on top of the motor and crank it to see what, if anything, comes out
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LeftCoastKiteboarding
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you have eliminated a little t of stuff. Since you have spark and fuel in the rail, it seems likely to be either the injectors themselves or the computer. Perhaps put a test light in one of the injector circuits and make sure their is actually current going to the injector.
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