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Confirm the year for this VW bug....
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hopkin Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 6:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GArBa wrote:
that pan pressings and the fact they are painted in body color below the underseal are typical of the mexi bodies, I wonder how much 1968 bug is actually there besides the vin stamping.


The Pueblo factory mounts are also visible:
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I think only the tunnel is used, as you know there are fittings at the front for the fuel pump and the pans would have been replaced for the seats (or at least the seat rails).

I posted this from Hot VW's earlier with some info on how the transplants were done.
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GArBa
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hopkin wrote:
...factory mounts are also visible:


yup but those are on the body not on the pan Wink

hopkin wrote:
I think only the tunnel is used, as you know there are fittings at the front for the fuel pump and the pans would have been replaced for the seats (or at least the seat rails).


That was also my understanding of the method, but nonetheless I'd like to take a look at the VIN area and below the floor mats were the pans join the tunnel. The illegal practice of just cutting and swapping a vehicle's VIN to change its identity is and has been unfortunately common in many parts of the world, and IIRC besides beetlemex there were also other importers conducting their activity in a more "shady" way. I do sincerely hope this is not the case for this car.
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sheilajom
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok guys, so I have one key for this. How and where do I get another one?
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hopkin Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's the code on the key, ie is it an 'AN' code?

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Last edited by hopkin on Mon Jan 12, 2015 3:42 pm; edited 1 time in total
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sheilajom
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes! And I need the fob for the alarm also.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine looks just like that
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hopkin Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sheilajom wrote:
Yes! And I need the fob for the alarm also.


Send a PM to Antonio Trejo (Parts VW), he has replacement keys. You may have to get a new switch and key for the alarm. I think the 'VB' keys will work in place of the 'AN's. I have a couple 'VB' blanks, but I haven't had them cut yet. (I found a key blank at a key shop that worked good enough for a spare).

Here's a couple photos of what you need:

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sheilajom
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What about this?
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That may have to be programmed. I bypassed the alarm in my car using these instructions from www.1600i.de:

Deactivating and removing of the immobiliser

Please keep in mind: I have no 1600i with such equipment, so i can only say what i'm thinking about, but not what i yet have done.

Very often the immobiliser didn't function like it should. That was the reason for a few German importers to generell remove it.

Sometimes it happens after the change of the batterie, sometimes without any reason.

How to check and bridge the alarmmodul under fronthood .
Normaly you should hear the fuel pump working for about 1 second after you turned on the ignition (not start the car).
The alarmmodul could cut the line to the fuel-pump. It's easy to bridge this. Remove the alarmmodul and make a line from 22 (small pin) to 23 (wide pin).

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I later modified the big relay (the one that's the size of an 8-track) to permanately jump the two pins.
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sheilajom
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks!
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 2:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hopkin wrote:
I think the 'VB' keys will work in place of the 'AN's.


correct. the more common 'AH' and 'HV' profiles will work too (tried personally).

edit: note that while 'AH' and 'HV' profiles will work in 'AN' locks the opposite isn't true, due to 'AN' (or 'VB') having a taller ridge ('HV' has a lower ridge and 'AH' no ridge at all)
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'14 type AA Seat Mii (sadly dead after 270.000 km)
'22 type C1 T-Cross
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'82 Benelli Magnum 3v
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sheilajom
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look what I found in the car...
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep it as is, it looks great. Pick up some paint as well from Antonio. You don't want the rust to spread. There is a good chance the mileage is original so keep up the maintenance, drive it as is and have fun with it. 7k would have been a decent price, you stole it.

-jeffrey
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jhicken wrote:
Keep it as is, it looks great. Pick up some paint as well from Antonio. You don't want the rust to spread. There is a good chance the mileage is original so keep up the maintenance, drive it as is and have fun with it. 7k would have been a decent price, you stole it.

-jeffrey


I fully agree with Jeffrey. Further, I've never been excited about these cars until your thread came along- the more I see, the more I like the car, the fantastic deal you got, and how much I've learned. I would simply detail it and enjoy. But I truly would disable or bypass that super scary immobilizer system as soon as possible!
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EverettB wrote:

I wonder what the nut looks like.



'62 L390 151, '62 L469 117, '63 L380 113, '64 L87 311, '65 L512 265, '65 L31 SO-42, '66 L360 251, '68 L30k 141, '71 L12 113, '74 ORG 181

FU#5
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 2:27 am    Post subject: Re: AC freon Reply with quote

sheilajom wrote:
Is the Freon the same as any current car or is the Freon a different type? In other words: Can I take it to any AC center and get it serviced?

If I 'convert' it to more resemble an actual 68 would it hurt the value? I am considering putting chrome bumpers, trim, fender turn signals, tail lights, etc. Or am I better off to keep it a "99" Mexibeetle?


Do not do anything to alter the look of this car. It is a late Mexi beetle, with all its comforts. If you want a 68, sell this one for 7000 and buy a 68. Then learn to live without the AC; alarm, better seats, etc.

You got a nice car for 4000, keep it maintained and fix only blemishes, to keep it original. There won't be any more of these around, so you may even get your money back if you decide to sell it. But stay away from making it look like anything else. It is so nice you should be proud of it as it is.

Happy Driving!
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sheilajom:

I agreement with the others, I would get to know Antonio and try to keep the car as original to the '99 Mexican as possible. The document package is great, I have the Mexican Owner's manual and Service Manual, not the others. (I have a similar German set with a UK VW Atlas).

Keep the document package as well, that's the first time I've seen a set like that.

I found coins in my Mexican Beetle, a German DM in the glovebox and under the backseat, some British and French (francs). Also a 'GB' magnet for when the car was used on the continent.

allsidius says that there are not that many, he is correct compared to the German/Mexican Beetles (ie the pre-ACD engines) from 1992 -2004 only ~500,000 were built, 36,446 '99s were built. Many of the 500,000 ended up as taxis, and are long gone.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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what is this?
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the hook for?
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Different tire, but original rim for spare.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Are the triangles original or not?
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