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Bus will warm up, but after tbat doesn't idle?? Please help!
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ClimbingNV
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 10:04 pm    Post subject: Bus will warm up, but after tbat doesn't idle?? Please help! Reply with quote

So my 79 FI bus does this thing where it starts and will idle on its own until the fuel injectors get hot then it will slowly die unless you give it some gas. What could cause it and how can I fix it? This is my first bus and I'm trying to make it run alone so I rally so private your help, thanks!
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A vacuum leak will do that, what seals and hoses have you changed?
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 7:10 am    Post subject: Re: Bus will warm up, but after tbat doesn't idle?? Please h Reply with quote

ClimbingNV wrote:
So my 79 FI bus does this thing where it starts and will idle on its own until the fuel injectors get hot then it will slowly die unless you give it some gas. What could cause it and how can I fix it? This is my first bus and I'm trying to make it run alone so I rally so private your help, thanks!


Why are your fuel injectors getting hot? Do you mean once the engine warms up...

And when you give it some gas... does it run nicely, or sort of rough?

Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

Here are some great troubleshooting manuals:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/fuelinjection.php
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Thrasher22
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Usually vaccum leaks as mentioned. It runs initially because your cold start valve is giving extra fuel to the cylinders until the engine warms up, once it cuts out the engine doesn't have enough fuel.

Check (or better yet replace) all the hoses in the ratwell diagram, and take a look at the S boot, throttle body, CSV, EGR, and injector seals until you find the problem.
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would start with a tune up and valve adjustment. This one thing will fix my bus attitude has to stop unless you have some very expensive equipment to tell you what that one weakest link is. Hoses go bad, ignitions need adjustment, valves need adjustment, injector seals go bad and leak, plugs and plug wires go bad, vacuum leaks occur, PCV and EGR valves go bad, fuel filters plug etc etc. Use the maintenance section in Bentley and your owner's manual first.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it still runs rough when you rev it up then check the resistance of the TSII sensor.

It could also be that if the engine once did have a substantial vacuum leak and the throttle body and AFM were adjusted to account for it, they now need to properly reset.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so you have replaced all those things in your list below. Did the bus ever run right while you have owned it?

*You indicated you were trying to figure out how the Samba website works. The Samba works well - sometimes we argue amongst ourselves like a bunch of siblings but we all stick together and welcome newcomers. You won't find better people or friends than here - and, you also won't find any mechanics who are better with VW buses than the folks here.

Quote:
Okay so all the work I've done to it includes new fuel pump, new gas tank, new motor mounts, all new vacuum lines, new plugs, new wires, and a bunch of smaller things as well. I have not tried dis connecting the plug wires yet that's a really good idea! I still am trying to figure out how the sambas website works* so thanks for the tips! After I do the plugs I'll tell you what happens.

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ClimbingNV
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I think this is where I need to post the rest of my bus questions? Anyway I un plugged the spark plug wires and all the cylinders work. So why won't it idle yet? I don't understand. Is it an air ful mixture or something?
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ClimbingNV wrote:
So I think this is where I need to post the rest of my bus questions? Anyway I un plugged the spark plug wires and all the cylinders work. So why won't it idle yet? I don't understand. Is it an air ful mixture or something?


could be. Spray a little water, windex, or berryman's carb cleaner around these spots and see if the idle changes. If you use carb cleaner just use one small poof, don't get it too wet because you don't want a fire.

base of each fuel injector to check for injector gasket leaks

light mist around S-boot to see if it is cracked

Near the right side of plenum to see if the elbow to the aar is leaking

near where the brake line tee is on the left side of the plenum to see if that tee is leaking

Others will add more I am sure.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
Did the bus ever run right while you have owned it?
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1967250s
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 1:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the brake vacuum hoses, too.
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ClimbingNV
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I've replaced all the vacuum hoses so I doubt that's a problem. And the bus didn't run when I got it and I've been working on it to make it run.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ALso have a look at the little 90º boot that is behind the aux air regualtor. YOU will need a magnet on a stick to see itbut those like to split.

Here is how you adjust that AAR....

http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=7834
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All the hoses?, even the larger oddly shaped ones between things like the AAR and Decel valves?, how about the flexible lines between the under body tube and up front where the body tube connects to the brake booster? (for now you can cap the connection at the plenum to rule out that system but the brakes will require more effort to stop).
If that doesn't help find yourself a trigger sprayer and put some gasoline in it, then as the bus idles spray a shot into the rectangular hole in the aircleaner that's visible when the filter is removed, does the idle improve or get worse?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


You'll also want to make sure the timing is set properly, here's my one size fits all description of how to do it correctly:

busdaddy wrote:
My standardized timing answer: (keep in mind this assumes you have a degree wheel or dial advance timing light and know where TDC really is, if you have a type 1 engine and don't understand the marks on your pulley read this: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=251672&highlight=stock+pulley+marks ).

If you only have one hose attached to your distributor pull it off, you don't need to cap it (no need on single hose systems), if you have 2 pull them both off but plug the one that was on the nipple facing the distributor (retard). Now connect the timing light to the battery and the #1 plug wire according to the timing light instructions (and set it to zero if it's the type with adjustments). Now start the engine and shoot the timing light at the scale and pulley (hold the light in your right hand), see the mark on the pulley?, good. Now using your left hand slowly open the throttle on the side of the carb or throttle body (move it the same way the cable pulls it) and watch the timing mark VS: the scale, the mark on the pulley should start to move to the left, open the throttle a little more and continue until the mark no longer moves to the left any more (yes it's loud, isn't it?), give it a bit more throttle just to confirm the mark is staying put at wherever it stopped (hopefully 28 degrees) and then release the throttle. If it stopped at 28 move on to carb or FI adjustment, if it went past or didn't make it all the way loosen the distributor clamp a little and turn the distributor a few degrees one way or the other (you pick, if it's worse go the other way), repeat until you find the happy spot and don't forget to tighten the clamp when you are done (make sure the distributor is pushed down all the way into the case too). Avoid loose fitting clothing and long hair near spinning fans and belts too, no need for a trip to emergency. Now put the hose back on, pack up the timing light and move on to carb or FI adjustment.

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MaritimeBay
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hold up, has anything been done with the distributor since you got the bus? If not, your bus may be out of whack because of an ignition tuning problem rather than a vacuum leak. When was the timing checked last?
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Last edited by MaritimeBay on Thu Jan 15, 2015 3:47 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How hot are your intake runners after it has run a while?
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ClimbingNV
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 3:36 pm    Post subject: Got it running! Reply with quote

So I finally got the bus to idle on its own. It's been going strong for about 10 minutes on its own! There was a little nipple on the air intake manifold (I think, I posted a picture of it.) turns out I needed to plug that and that's all! The nipple shouldnt be there because the part is from an earlier FI bus. So thanks for your help I honestly could not have done it without you. Now I need to figure out why its smoking so much? Smile
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timvw7476
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 6:59 pm    Post subject: Bus will warm up, but after tbat doesn't idle?? Please help! Reply with quote

She's smoking because she's stressed-out & middle-aged.
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ClimbingNV
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 12:35 pm    Post subject: I need help with my alternator! Or my voltage regulator? Reply with quote

So my battery keeps dying on me and I saw that there are no wires connecting my alternator and my battery. So I got some 10g wire and some ring terminals to connect them but where should I put the ring terminal on the alternator to make sure the power gets transfered? And what's this about a voltage regulator? Please help ASAP thanks!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can buy the complete alternator harness with the correct terminals, plugs, and grommets. They don't cost much and will have every wire you need. Search the classified ads here on Samba. The regulator lives on the lower right side of the firewall to the front of the engine compartment.
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