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ClimbingNV Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2014 Posts: 41 Location: Reno
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Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 10:04 pm Post subject: Bus will warm up, but after tbat doesn't idle?? Please help! |
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| So my 79 FI bus does this thing where it starts and will idle on its own until the fuel injectors get hot then it will slowly die unless you give it some gas. What could cause it and how can I fix it? This is my first bus and I'm trying to make it run alone so I rally so private your help, thanks! |
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busdaddy Samba Member

Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 53216 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 10:36 pm Post subject: |
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A vacuum leak will do that, what seals and hoses have you changed? _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Wasted youth Samba Member

Joined: July 06, 2012 Posts: 5175 Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
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Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 7:10 am Post subject: Re: Bus will warm up, but after tbat doesn't idle?? Please h |
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| ClimbingNV wrote: |
| So my 79 FI bus does this thing where it starts and will idle on its own until the fuel injectors get hot then it will slowly die unless you give it some gas. What could cause it and how can I fix it? This is my first bus and I'm trying to make it run alone so I rally so private your help, thanks! |
Why are your fuel injectors getting hot? Do you mean once the engine warms up...
And when you give it some gas... does it run nicely, or sort of rough?
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
Here are some great troubleshooting manuals:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/fuelinjection.php |
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Thrasher22 Samba Member

Joined: October 05, 2010 Posts: 858 Location: Calgary, Canada
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Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 8:27 am Post subject: |
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Usually vaccum leaks as mentioned. It runs initially because your cold start valve is giving extra fuel to the cylinders until the engine warms up, once it cuts out the engine doesn't have enough fuel.
Check (or better yet replace) all the hoses in the ratwell diagram, and take a look at the S boot, throttle body, CSV, EGR, and injector seals until you find the problem. _________________ 1975 Westfalia - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516701 |
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SGKent  Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 42957 Location: at the beach in Northern Wokistan
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Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 8:41 am Post subject: |
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I would start with a tune up and valve adjustment. This one thing will fix my bus attitude has to stop unless you have some very expensive equipment to tell you what that one weakest link is. Hoses go bad, ignitions need adjustment, valves need adjustment, injector seals go bad and leak, plugs and plug wires go bad, vacuum leaks occur, PCV and EGR valves go bad, fuel filters plug etc etc. Use the maintenance section in Bentley and your owner's manual first. _________________
Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand).
George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."
Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"  |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52738
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Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 10:15 am Post subject: |
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If it still runs rough when you rev it up then check the resistance of the TSII sensor.
It could also be that if the engine once did have a substantial vacuum leak and the throttle body and AFM were adjusted to account for it, they now need to properly reset. |
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SGKent  Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 42957 Location: at the beach in Northern Wokistan
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Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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so you have replaced all those things in your list below. Did the bus ever run right while you have owned it?
*You indicated you were trying to figure out how the Samba website works. The Samba works well - sometimes we argue amongst ourselves like a bunch of siblings but we all stick together and welcome newcomers. You won't find better people or friends than here - and, you also won't find any mechanics who are better with VW buses than the folks here.
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| Okay so all the work I've done to it includes new fuel pump, new gas tank, new motor mounts, all new vacuum lines, new plugs, new wires, and a bunch of smaller things as well. I have not tried dis connecting the plug wires yet that's a really good idea! I still am trying to figure out how the sambas website works* so thanks for the tips! After I do the plugs I'll tell you what happens. |
_________________
Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand).
George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."
Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"  |
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ClimbingNV Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2014 Posts: 41 Location: Reno
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Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 2:52 pm Post subject: |
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| So I think this is where I need to post the rest of my bus questions? Anyway I un plugged the spark plug wires and all the cylinders work. So why won't it idle yet? I don't understand. Is it an air ful mixture or something? |
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SGKent  Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 42957 Location: at the beach in Northern Wokistan
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Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 6:26 pm Post subject: |
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| ClimbingNV wrote: |
| So I think this is where I need to post the rest of my bus questions? Anyway I un plugged the spark plug wires and all the cylinders work. So why won't it idle yet? I don't understand. Is it an air ful mixture or something? |
could be. Spray a little water, windex, or berryman's carb cleaner around these spots and see if the idle changes. If you use carb cleaner just use one small poof, don't get it too wet because you don't want a fire.
base of each fuel injector to check for injector gasket leaks
light mist around S-boot to see if it is cracked
Near the right side of plenum to see if the elbow to the aar is leaking
near where the brake line tee is on the left side of the plenum to see if that tee is leaking
Others will add more I am sure. _________________
Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand).
George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."
Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"  |
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Tcash Samba Member

Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12843 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 6:57 pm Post subject: |
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| SGKent wrote: |
| Did the bus ever run right while you have owned it? |
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1967250s Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2007 Posts: 2137
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Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 1:47 am Post subject: |
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Check the brake vacuum hoses, too. _________________ '72 Elm Green Deluxe |
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ClimbingNV Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2014 Posts: 41 Location: Reno
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Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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| Well I've replaced all the vacuum hoses so I doubt that's a problem. And the bus didn't run when I got it and I've been working on it to make it run. |
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Randy in Maine Samba Member

Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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busdaddy Samba Member

Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 53216 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 1:12 pm Post subject: |
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All the hoses?, even the larger oddly shaped ones between things like the AAR and Decel valves?, how about the flexible lines between the under body tube and up front where the body tube connects to the brake booster? (for now you can cap the connection at the plenum to rule out that system but the brakes will require more effort to stop).
If that doesn't help find yourself a trigger sprayer and put some gasoline in it, then as the bus idles spray a shot into the rectangular hole in the aircleaner that's visible when the filter is removed, does the idle improve or get worse?
You'll also want to make sure the timing is set properly, here's my one size fits all description of how to do it correctly:
| busdaddy wrote: |
My standardized timing answer: (keep in mind this assumes you have a degree wheel or dial advance timing light and know where TDC really is, if you have a type 1 engine and don't understand the marks on your pulley read this: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=251672&highlight=stock+pulley+marks ).
If you only have one hose attached to your distributor pull it off, you don't need to cap it (no need on single hose systems), if you have 2 pull them both off but plug the one that was on the nipple facing the distributor (retard). Now connect the timing light to the battery and the #1 plug wire according to the timing light instructions (and set it to zero if it's the type with adjustments). Now start the engine and shoot the timing light at the scale and pulley (hold the light in your right hand), see the mark on the pulley?, good. Now using your left hand slowly open the throttle on the side of the carb or throttle body (move it the same way the cable pulls it) and watch the timing mark VS: the scale, the mark on the pulley should start to move to the left, open the throttle a little more and continue until the mark no longer moves to the left any more (yes it's loud, isn't it?), give it a bit more throttle just to confirm the mark is staying put at wherever it stopped (hopefully 28 degrees) and then release the throttle. If it stopped at 28 move on to carb or FI adjustment, if it went past or didn't make it all the way loosen the distributor clamp a little and turn the distributor a few degrees one way or the other (you pick, if it's worse go the other way), repeat until you find the happy spot and don't forget to tighten the clamp when you are done (make sure the distributor is pushed down all the way into the case too). Avoid loose fitting clothing and long hair near spinning fans and belts too, no need for a trip to emergency. Now put the hose back on, pack up the timing light and move on to carb or FI adjustment. |
_________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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MaritimeBay Samba Member

Joined: September 16, 2013 Posts: 120 Location: Fredericton NB
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Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 1:50 pm Post subject: |
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Hold up, has anything been done with the distributor since you got the bus? If not, your bus may be out of whack because of an ignition tuning problem rather than a vacuum leak. When was the timing checked last? _________________ 1977 2.0L FI Westfalia.
They call my home the land of snow.
Last edited by MaritimeBay on Thu Jan 15, 2015 3:47 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52738
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Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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| How hot are your intake runners after it has run a while? |
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ClimbingNV Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2014 Posts: 41 Location: Reno
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Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 3:36 pm Post subject: Got it running! |
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So I finally got the bus to idle on its own. It's been going strong for about 10 minutes on its own! There was a little nipple on the air intake manifold (I think, I posted a picture of it.) turns out I needed to plug that and that's all! The nipple shouldnt be there because the part is from an earlier FI bus. So thanks for your help I honestly could not have done it without you. Now I need to figure out why its smoking so much?  |
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timvw7476 Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2013 Posts: 2524 Location: seattle
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Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 6:59 pm Post subject: Bus will warm up, but after tbat doesn't idle?? Please help! |
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| She's smoking because she's stressed-out & middle-aged. |
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ClimbingNV Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2014 Posts: 41 Location: Reno
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Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 12:35 pm Post subject: I need help with my alternator! Or my voltage regulator? |
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| So my battery keeps dying on me and I saw that there are no wires connecting my alternator and my battery. So I got some 10g wire and some ring terminals to connect them but where should I put the ring terminal on the alternator to make sure the power gets transfered? And what's this about a voltage regulator? Please help ASAP thanks! |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52738
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Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 3:10 pm Post subject: |
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| You can buy the complete alternator harness with the correct terminals, plugs, and grommets. They don't cost much and will have every wire you need. Search the classified ads here on Samba. The regulator lives on the lower right side of the firewall to the front of the engine compartment. |
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