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TDI Syncro--Finding TDC for Timing Belt Change
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markd89
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew A. Libby wrote:
One VERY accurate method I have used to confirm the TDC mark is to remove one glow plug and insert a clear hose into the glow plug hole. The clear hose should be 3-4' long and should fit the glow plug hole tightly so that it does not leak air around the hose (you could add grease around the hose to seal it and be sure it doesn't leak). Rotate the engine close to TDC and then insert the other end of the hose into a clear glass jar that has a little water in it. Watch very closely while a helper rotates the engine to TDC. Air bubbles will come out of the hose and the exact point where the bubbles stop and instead, the water starts to go into the hose is TDC. Take care not to suck water into the engine (duh). I have found this method to be easier and far more accurate than using a dial indicator on the piston crown.


Very clever!

Question on the Kennedy timing mark: Have you verified the accuracy of that mark using the air tube (or dial indicator) method?

The reason I ask is that when I spoke with Kennedy they could not assure me of the accuracy of this mark. They told me that when the founder developed the plate/flywheel for use on a Rabbit, it was accurate against the engines of that era but that there had been no checks since. They CNC the parts based off the same design but basically told me not to rely on it.

Mark
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have an ALH in a Vanagon with the automatic and flex plate and when installing it I confirmed that the mark is accurate but I don't recall specifically what method I used to confirm it.
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Gizmoman
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr Libby gave me the same info (as he mentioned on page 1) - works flawlessly.
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82 Vanagon Westy - AAZ 1.9 TD, HE200 Holset, WAIC, 27.75 dia tires, Electric power steering, 5-speed AAP w/.078 5th
Oversize spare carrier - stock location (no longer for sale).
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HBB
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew A. Libby wrote:
HBB wrote:
jackbombay wrote:
There may/should be a hole in the adapter plate, when the engine is at TDC there will be a punch mark that will be in the center of the hole.


Thanks, any pictures you can steer me to? This is the first TDI I've wrenched on, and the first Syncro transaxle as well, so it's entirely possible I've overlooked the hole thinking it was something else.


I didn't see where you said how the engine was mounted. If it's using a kennedy adapter plate, there's a TDC hole at the black. The blue plug in this pic shows the hole.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I believe I have the same adaptor plate, but there's no hole in that location.
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markd89
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kennedy has two very similar plates. One has hole, one does not. There are other differences (which I don't remember) but for "our" applications (ALH or 1Z/AHU), both work.

They initially gave me the plate without the hole and then I had them swap it for the plate with the hole. That was when I was given the caveats that they had no way to tell me if that hole would give an accurate mark.

Mark
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Gizmoman
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 4:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The clear hose in the injector hole works perfectly.
I believe I found a brass barb fitting with similar threads and ran a metric tap over the NPT portion.

I put a bit of fluid in (I think I used light oil) and let it droop a bit. Moving the crank even a tiny amount made the oil move like it was attached to the piston - it was amazing. I don't recall anything about bubbles. Keep in mind, your not cranking it over - your're already very close to TDC, jut not perfect. This trick will get you there.
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Oversize spare carrier - stock location (no longer for sale).
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markd89
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll be using the injector hole too when it comes time for me to do this as I have some seized glow plugs.

Did you find that you were able to rotate the engine OK with just removing the #1 injector or is it necessary to remove all of them. I'm guessing if #1 is the only one going to compression that maybe that should be all that's needed? Is it recommended to replace the copper injector seals or can they be re-used?

Thanks,
Mark
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Gizmoman
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My apologies - thats what happens when I post pre-morning coffee Embarassed
I meant to say glow plug hole. Besides, the injector hole would take quite a fitting!

As for re-using the sealing washers, I wouldn't - they're cheap and when they don't seal it can really create havoc. Some guys heat them up with a propane torch to soften them and reuse them - I think they are a couple of bucks apiece and perform a very important task. Even if they leak a teeny weeny amount, the carbon can coke up your injector threads - next thing you know, broken injector boss - trashed head.

Again, my apologies on the injector VS the GP hole snafu - it's the #1 GP port.
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Oversize spare carrier - stock location (no longer for sale).
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HBB
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was curious about Libby's "TDC Bong," so since I had just had the #1 GP out, I pulled it to triple check the harmonic balancer mark. I used some tubing and a cone-shaped adaptor from my MityVac run into a mason jar; I figure most folks wrenching on these engines likely have something similar on hand, so I thought I would pass it along.

With a long tubing run, you can suck a water column up and get an excellent visual of what's happening with the piston without worrying about sucking water into the cylinder.

Thanks for the tip, Libby, that's a neat trick that I hadn't heard of anywhere else.
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