Picklex 20?

[Lil Lulu]

I have just had a conversation with a Case nut at a tractor show. He uses this product after years of using others with less than satisfactory results. Anyone have experience with it?
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'65 Beetle "Lil' Lulu"- Ruby Red
1600 stock from '71 bus

'72 Deluxe - Niagara Blue w/pastelwiess Camper Special 2L dual 40 Webers 002

'74 Hightop Weekender "Dixie" 1800 34 Del singles

[busdaddy]

From the chest beating on their website it sounds like the best thing since beer, almost too good to be true. I wonder what it's like to get paint to stick to later? Good for bridge parts or oil rigs, maybe not so much for autobody?, don't know.......

http://picklex20.com/technical-picklex20/
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[whatdoesthisbuttondo?]

Expensive, but I prefer it over POR Metal Ready and rust-mort, which are similar products that serve a similar puprose. Main reasons I like Picklex are that you don't have to rinse it off with water so you don't add more moisture to your work area, procedure takes less steps, and I use way less of it. It also removes any light oil left on the work area.

Its helpful to work it in with a green scrub pad once its sprayed on.

I've read on other forums that epoxy primer is fine over Picklex as long as primer doesn't have any added etching properties. Self etch primer is not compatible.

I spray with picklex right after sandblasting anything, I did two bumpers two months ago, one looks fine, the other has a few new rust blemishes, so they needed a respray to convert, probably started in deeper pits.

Picklex good for parts clean up too, here is piece I soaked with picklex and used green scrub pad on, still looks like fresh metal 6 months later.

All the phosphoric acid products will dissolve rust if you leave them for a period of time (and the metal eventually as I found out), this is Picklex.

Just for the heck of it, here's Por Metal Ready on left, Rust-Mort on right, 2-3 applications. I think the Rust Mort does a better jobf.

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Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

[Lil Lulu]

Thanks- whatdoesthisbuttondo. I have used Ospho in the past and then directly coated with MasterSeries, prime, singlestage w/hardener on my 72. 3 years now in the Maritime PNW with no recurrence. Ray has suggested Jasco prep and prime on the flash rust after using muriatic acid. My 74 has enough rust under the nonexisting /soontobenew battery box that it warrants using the muriatic acid. The paint on the outside of the butt is good. Don't want to disturb it.

So do you have good luck with the product over non-rusted steel too or do you induce flash rust on it? I'm interested in using it. Can/should it be sanded?

Oh- and whatdoesthisbuttondo- Please tell me you don't combine Martin playing and parts cleaning activities.
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'65 Beetle "Lil' Lulu"- Ruby Red
1600 stock from '71 bus

'72 Deluxe - Niagara Blue w/pastelwiess Camper Special 2L dual 40 Webers 002

'74 Hightop Weekender "Dixie" 1800 34 Del singles

[SGKent]

Phosphoric Acid CAS NO. 7664-38-2 <10% by volume
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[Rumdum]

I used it on all bare metal during restoration and before all body work. Ive read on this product for over 10 years on a body shop website that uses it exclusively and they are located up north (salty roads). I know a good bit about it and procedures etc. but the best resource of someone using it often is http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php
It's a great forum for all your body work and restoration needs. Like here, there's many experienced people willing to help. Even has helpful assholes too.
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1975 Westfalia Campmobile
CB Performance Dual IDF Weber 40
- jetted and optimized by Aircooled.net

[raygreenwood]

It uses roughly the same mechanism as Jasco prep and prime but with less phosphoric acid. The coating it leaves behind after rust conversion is called an ortho ester. Its basically a thin polymer coating that precipitates in the presence of a mild acid.

It will keep rust away just like Jasco for a long time if its used properly. It must be totally and evenly coated and allowed to dry that way without disturbing it.

I will have to try it. Jasco I have found is much better than ospho because its solution strength is higher and it eats rust better. But it also can leave a LOT of the polymer coating on it in a rough manner if you dont coat evenly with little foam or bubble.

I have found its best to treat once....foam up and dissolve the rust....rinse and coat again before its dry to get it even. Ray

[Rumdum]

The best thing about Picklex is you can spray it on from a simple spray bottle, work it in with a scuff pad then wipe off the excess with paper towels in 2 or 3 minutes. Then keep it dry till youre ready for acid-free epoxy (which most epoxies are acid free). When i welded in a new nose skin, i sanded it down to bare metal and put picklex on and it stayed free of rust for several years except where i touched it with sweaty fingers. Once youre ready to paint, just scuff with the same type scuff pads and shoot it. As mentioned previously, if it should get moisture on it and rust anywhere, you can just reapply picklex in its current state without any prep worp or sanding etc. Its really simple.
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1975 Westfalia Campmobile
CB Performance Dual IDF Weber 40
- jetted and optimized by Aircooled.net

[raygreenwood]

[whatdoesthisbuttondo?]

Interesting info in this thread, I need to try dissolving rust with higher strength stuff some time...

Lil' Lulu- Haha, Martin and Picklex definitely not compatible! I try and keep the hobbies separate
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Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).