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iamdonquixote Samba Member

Joined: January 28, 2003 Posts: 2074 Location: M*ssholia
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:04 am Post subject: flywheel came loose, crank dowel holes out of round - advise |
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Now is your time to point and laugh, I "jacked up" my flywheel/crank connection bad.
I replaced my crankshaft seal ( front main seal ) and must not have torqued the gland nut correctly ( please don't ask me how I torqued it ). On first drive bad noises, oil leaking. Pulled engine and found the flywheel quite loose.
The engine did have kind of a crappy gland nut in my defense, but oh well, live and learn. Transmission housing a little gouged but not too awful.
The dowel holes on the flywheel are egged, flywheel is probably junk. The crank, three are egged out, and one looks ok.
Should I
Drill the crank for 8 dowels with the block assembled and fit a new flywheel?
Remove crank and drill for 8 dowels and fit new flywheel?
Remove and replace crank? |
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[email protected] Samba Member

Joined: August 03, 2002 Posts: 12785 Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:05 am Post subject: Re: flywheel came loose, crank dowel holes out of round - ad |
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Replace the crank. Lesson learned (the hard way). _________________ It's just advice, do whatever you want with it!
Please do NOT send me Private Messages through the Samba PM System (I will not see them). Send me an e-mail to john at aircooled dot net
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iamdonquixote Samba Member

Joined: January 28, 2003 Posts: 2074 Location: M*ssholia
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:25 am Post subject: Re: flywheel came loose, crank dowel holes out of round - ad |
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thanks,  |
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jason Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2002 Posts: 3462 Location: Garage
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 11:11 am Post subject: |
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I'd make sure the surfaces are flat and put them back the way they were. Then drill them. Check for runout and go from there. Put a good nut and torque it well. I had a motor before with egged holes and the machine shop drilled it for bigger dowels. Depends how bad. |
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77charger Samba Member
Joined: November 12, 2005 Posts: 1492
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 5:53 pm Post subject: |
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I had a f/w come loose due to my part stuck throttle in 3rd gear push in clutch let car slow and it reved so i let it back out fast and coasted down the dune.Lets say it instantly started knocking.
I towed it back to camp got home tore motor down luckily it was fixable by drilling for the larger dowels i think 11/32 and had it wedgemated by my machinist.He told me that was the only way to fix it and had i ran it a lil more it would have been junk. _________________ Click to view image
Bugpack 4 seater rail
2275 built by me
Auto linea alm case,82 dpr crank wedgemated by DK machine
cb 5.4 h beams,12 pound DPR f/w,Slr xv294cam,cb straight cuts,hpmx 44s,40x35 heads ported by brothers machine |
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modok Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2009 Posts: 27568 Location: Colorado Springs
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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It is fixable, however, I would replace the crank. Stock cranks are common, and not terribly expensive.
Then you can figure out how to fix the old one later, after it's cleaned, outside the engine.
It may be possible to fix cranks in the engine, but DUDE, please, please don't make me do it!!!! Mounting a complete engine onto the mill sucks, and it leaks oil everywhere. LOL
Even so, it is faster than making special tools to repair the crank in it's habitat, of course, if we got three in a row I'd make special tools!!! But rarely get two of the same thing ever. |
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morymob Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2007 Posts: 4683 Location: east-tn
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Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 7:41 am Post subject: |
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Repairing a few beaters per cust ok 4 this problem i redrilled 4 more , 1st one dr/reamed to size to hold alignment 4 others. I used an old gland nut/ mod washer to hold crank tight enuf to do others. Punch marking fw topully timing notch allows removal of flywheel & get it back on aligning holes,they were not evenly spaced like original but at this point its not a problem., allows another good run until crank isworn past fixing, my2cts, as usual no warranty offered at this time. |
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iamdonquixote Samba Member

Joined: January 28, 2003 Posts: 2074 Location: M*ssholia
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Posted: Wed Jun 17, 2015 8:47 am Post subject: |
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thanks for the input,
I'm not going to hoopty-rig it.
Not going to put it on a drill press
I think the Freudian interpretation is that I wanted that 74mm crank anyhow so thats what I'm going to do. |
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Boolean Samba Member

Joined: January 19, 2012 Posts: 1712 Location: Stockholm
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spencerfvee Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2004 Posts: 3068
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Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 10:15 am Post subject: |
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why pull a motor apart . what do you have to lose but your time .I have fixed a lot of cranks by redrilling the holes and some of the motors I have redrilled . are still running after 5 years .like others have said to you redrill new holes or redrill for bigger doll pins. if you go with the bigger doll pins get the longer ones just my two cents take it or leave it spencerfvee
iamdonquixote wrote: |
thanks for the input,
I'm not going to hoopty-rig it.
Not going to put it on a drill press
I think the Freudian interpretation is that I wanted that 74mm crank anyhow so thats what I'm going to do. |
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Cusser Samba Member

Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 32854 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 12:07 pm Post subject: |
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spencerfvee wrote: |
why pull a motor apart . what do you have to lose but your time .I have fixed a lot of cranks by redrilling the holes and some of the motors I have redrilled . are still running after 5 years .like others have said to you redrill new holes or redrill for bigger doll pins. if you go with the bigger doll pins get the longer ones just my two cents take it or leave it |
If mine, I'd drill or have a machine shop drill for me. _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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mikedjames Samba Member

Joined: July 02, 2012 Posts: 3265 Location: Hamble, Hampshire, UK
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Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 1:05 pm Post subject: |
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When I did this I had the crank and flywheel drilled for 8 dowels.
It lasted 20000 miles until the vibration caused by massive backfiring and misfiring shook it loose at 65mph
This was when a rocker arm spring broke and No2 exhaust stopped opening, and the inlet manifold boot blew out on No3 and No4.
A bus will drive just on 2 cylinders or was that 1 and two halves.
I bought another rusty lump described as a Camper Engine on eBay for $70 and got a nice AS21 case which did not need machining, and a nice crank and 215mm flywheel. And a lot of fun whacking rusted up cylinders off it. _________________ Ancient vehicles and vessels
1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.
1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
1973 wooden Pacer sailing dinghy |
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anthracitedub Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2007 Posts: 3241 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 5:54 pm Post subject: |
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I tore one up when I was a kid. Stock 1600. Just indexed the fly wheel and redrilled.... Ran good, eventually rebuilt the engine... But drove it for a few years like that.
Make sure you torque the the Gnut on that new crank!!! |
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Dr OnHolliday Samba Member
Joined: May 11, 2012 Posts: 1215 Location: was Escondido now San Berdoo
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Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2015 9:28 pm Post subject: |
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You can buy the 8-bolt drill jig for less than $30. You also need 2 appropriate sized drill bits plus an 8mm reamer to allow you to redrill your own. _________________ 1965 Type 1 sunroof Baja / about 70k miles on self-rebuilt '74 1600 and counting / SP heads and aftermarket valve keepers / non-doghouse shroud with external cooler and filter / 1.5 qt extended sump / Weber 32/36 DFAV progressive carb / 009 dist with Pertronix / 1.25 ratio rockers and ball adjusters / 1.5" stainless steel J-pipes and carbon steel baja exhaust |
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atlime Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2014 Posts: 57 Location: UK
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 4:42 am Post subject: Re: flywheel came loose, crank dowel holes out of round - advise |
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Sorry to open and old thread ..
I also have a crank and flywheel that I've removed due to a loose gland nut (prev. Owner)
I'm now wondering ifor it's possible to weld up the holes and re drill using a good flywheel as a template.
Anyone tried this?
Another option I'm wondering about is threading the holes and using bolts?
Neither are probably good ideas but it seems a waste when these it's could make a cheap stocker. |
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vwracerdave Samba Member

Joined: November 11, 2004 Posts: 15598 Location: Deep in the 405
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 4:49 am Post subject: Re: flywheel came loose, crank dowel holes out of round - advise |
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Yes it is possible to repair a damaged crank, but it is not cost effective. For a machinist to weld and machine everything true it would cost more then a new crank. _________________ 2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK |
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atlime Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2014 Posts: 57 Location: UK
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 6:31 am Post subject: Re: flywheel came loose, crank dowel holes out of round - advise |
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Surely it can't cost much. I can weld it myself but not sure on the drilling fresh holes but am willing to try.
Nothing to lose really |
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Brian_e  Samba Member

Joined: July 28, 2009 Posts: 3900 Location: Rapid City, South Dakota
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 8:58 am Post subject: Re: flywheel came loose, crank dowel holes out of round - advise |
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I thought every VW person had a few extra stock cranks laying in the corner?
You pay the shipping, and I will send you TWO usable cranks!! Then you will have a backup.
Welding the holes shut will create all kinds of other expensive issues. Drill the 4 egged out to 11/32, and add 4 more stock size with a SPG drill jig. Easy, and you wont screw up the journal or flywheel mating surface attempting to weld it.
I did one on an assembled type 3 engine on the bench last year. It worked out great. I drilled the 8 dowel pattern in the flywheel first on the drill press, and then bolted the flywheel to the engine. Then drill and ream the new 4 holes in the crank using the flywheel as a guide, and install the 4 pins. Then go back and enlarge the 4 egged holes to 11/32 in the flywheel and crank at the same time. Go slow, and use good tools and you will be fine.
Brian |
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mark tucker Samba Member

Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23950 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 9:01 am Post subject: Re: flywheel came loose, crank dowel holes out of round - advise |
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with no real good pics hard to tell. but if it were a oe crank I would opt for the 84mm 4340 crank you have always wanted and thus left this one loose for the wife....... |
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Dale M. Samba Member

Joined: April 12, 2006 Posts: 20770 Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 9:10 am Post subject: Re: flywheel came loose, crank dowel holes out of round - advise |
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You know the other day when you needed a door stop....
Dale _________________ “Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns"
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ... |
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