more radio/antenna related questions

[type1vwjapan]

Thanks! Sorry for my mistake. I saw on the flat4 page that they sell a fuse holder like my old one that says its do a radio and it's rated for 8a. I wasn't sure if 8a would be enough as I have that tank of an amp.

Then what's with the 15 number? I thought it was a 12v/6v rating meaning.

Also, this white fuse looks more similar to the red, 16a ones. Note how thin the metal conductor is in the middle like the red, 16a ones.

Are these old fuses color coded? Meaning all white ones will be 8a, etc.?

[type1vwjapan]

I'm an idiot and overthinking too much here. I just found a bunch of 8a fuses that look like the one I have. Guess how thin the conductor is in the middle doesn't really matter...???

[60ragtop]

yes 8 amp is white 16 amp is red. The difference of the metal appearance is just different makers of fuse
_________________
Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986

[type1vwjapan]

well, didn't get the antenna mounted like I was hoping last night, as I was addressing other issues and thinking all of this out more carefully, especially how I plan to wire this all up with fuses and a switch. But, I do plan to get it mounted this week sometime.

On another note, got my LHD original early 60's glovebox in the mail last night. My car previously had a custom built glovebox that was made to mount a CD player and an ETC (an electronic device that allows you to go right through the toll gates and pay electronically when you get on the interstate here) to fit pretty damn well in my RHD car considering it's not exactly made for my car.

I hate modifications like that and want a stock look as much as possible so all of that had to go. Car looks much better now I'd say, especially the glove box and front trunk area. So happy to not have a cluster of CD player, ETC, and cigarette lighter wires.

I only have a very tiny little gap in the bottom, right corner. No complaints here, as I was wanting an original glovebox that had that old car smell. It definitely has that, but am so surprised at how solid it still is. Absolutely no rot or damage anywhere on this thing!

Also, I placed my order for the radio fuse with Flat4 this morning. Will be coming in the mail tomorrow evening. At least I know now that my radio is rated for 8A. Still not sure why the repair manula says it only draws 2.71a though???

Now if I can only figure out what my FM RediRad is rated for so that I can put these both on a switch and fuse. I emailed the customer service department at RediRad asking about that and am waiting on a response.

But, I got to thinking that it probably isn't necessary to put the radio on a switch, since I always turn my radio off anyways. I am pretty OCD about my car, as you may have noticed. Or I caught the "bug" or whatever you may call it.

Now I'm thinking to just put the RediRad on the switch that I can turn off, so it doesn't potentially drain my battery.

However, I received a very informative reply from the owner of RediRad that ONLY the AM RediRad models are prone to draining your battery if wired hot, whereas the FM models don't. Evidentally the AM models consumer a lot more juice than the FM models.

He said exactly that wiring an FM model hot has no more drain on the battery than a hot summer day, and that if the car is driven often it shouldn't be an issue. I still want to be able to switch it off though since my car is my daily.

He also said that any of the AM/FM models made after 2014 aren't vulnerable to voltage spikes at start up.

[type1vwjapan]

just got a reply from RediRad and they said a 1a fuse is correct for my FM model. Just thought I'd throw that out there for anyone else who wants to put it on an extra fuse and add a on/off switch.

[type1vwjapan]

i also meant to ask about keeping moisture out of where I drill my holes for the antenna.

The only grease I have on hand is chassis grease and wheel bearing grease. Should a dab of one of those be fine? I really don't want to have to buy a tube of something I'm only going to use a tiny amount of, especially after I've bought all of this other stuff.

[60ragtop]

usually the antenna has rubber seals so nothing extra is needed to seal them.
You just need to drive it and enjoy it and quit reading so much
_________________
Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986

[Eric&Barb]

butyl rubber is best sealant for bolt together areas like that if you want to use one.
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

[type1vwjapan]

thanks again! got my antenna mounted finally last night. Looks good and it actually stays put and doesn't flop all over the place. I really appreciate all of the pointers you all gave me and for your patience.

The holes I made were 13mm and were just right for the antenna. It has a nice fit and seals to the body well. I put some of that wheel bearing grease where it mounts on both sides after I painted the area that I drilled out. The grease I used is top notch and says it can be used for tons of different stuff including repelling water. So that's good enough for me.

Went smoothly overall with the exception that the drill I was using was a complete POS. The switch to change it to drill clockwise and couunter-clockwise was loose and you had to hold it in place for it to drill the directon you wanted, lol!

Drilled my smaller holes and then changed the bit to 13mm for the final hole and I couldn't figure out why the bit was struggling to go through the metal. Then I realized it was drilling in CCW!!! So my bottom hole drilled out fine but was a little ugly around the edges and burred up. Had to pull, sand, and file down the burrs before I painted the area.

But no worries, the antenna rubber mounts cover the ugly little spot on the bottom hole, so it looks great overall!

I should have noted that drill was a complete POS more before I started drilling away into the side of my car I guess...

And here come the questions...

Can you overtighten the antenna? I have mine nice and tight but it bows very slightly in the middle. It's not bowed like a bow and arrow or anything, but just a tad bit. Wasn't sure if I should back the nuts off a little bit. Again, pics will all come later once I get it all done.

And here is my more important question if I can attempt to ask and explain myself simply. Excuse my ignorance here, but I just am worrying too much here I believe. Just want to make sure I don't start a fire or burn up a wire.

I'm going to wire my RediRad FM device to be hot all the time with the radio. It will be on the ruse that the radio is supposed to be on, or the one next to it that I believe my car has the dome light connected on it. Both of these fuses are red, which means they are 16a.

I have an available terminal at the fusebox to connect one wire too, but I really need two, one for the RediRad and one for the radio. The radio wire will be on a fuse for 8a, and the RediRad wire on a fuse for 1a.

I have some of these red wire connectors that they use over here that can fit three wires inside of them. Once you place your wires inside, you just crimp it down to hold them in place. They hold really well!

I plan to connect my my RediRad and radio wires inside of here, followed by one wire that leads to the fuse box on the battery (hot) terminal to power these two circuits. Please note that this RediRad wire will be going to a switch

This should be fine, right?

Again, the Radio won't be on a switch since I can turn it off with the knob, but the RediRad will.

[type1vwjapan]

Basically, what I mean is that the RediRad will only draw around 1a even if it gets it's power source from the same terminal as the radio, right? This makes since, but just wanted to make sure.

[Sharp64]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/182222982451?lpid=82&...noapp=true

http://m.ebay.com/itm/25-Non-Insulated-PIGGYBACK-Q...nav=SEARCH

You need something like these. It may not hurt anything but it will look much better with these.

[type1vwjapan]

Thanks! That's what I really want to get if my car parts store has those.

[type1vwjapan]

Got my wiring harness complete now for my new radio fuse and the switched circuit for the RediRad. Just have to go out to my car and hook it all up once the typhoon passes.

While I'm waiting I just wanted to clear up one more question that I asked previously.

Since the radio is grounded by the radio bracket, do I need to ground the amp as well? Will it help in any way?

My amp has brackets on both side that seem like it's supposed to bolt down. Will I experience any issues you think if I bolt it down in the front trunk area straight to the body?

Or would it be more wise to just get a velcro pad and hold it down on the carpet mat I have in the front trunk?

thanks again!

[Eric&Barb]

If the amp is stock to the radio, would just bolt it down. Have you found any literature on the radio?
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

[type1vwjapan]

the amp is stock to the radio. haven't found anything other than what I found on this site. I posted it in one of my earlier posts. Guess I definitely be bolting it down then, as it even has brackets to do so.

[Sharp64]

Not a clue if it needs to be grounded or not, but couldn't hurt. Id also much rather have it bolted down than sitting on some Velcro running around town.

[type1vwjapan]

Well, I managed to get everything hooked up and I still couldn't get any decent volume out of the radio. I let the amp warm up for a good 20-25 minutes too.

I made sure that my radio was grounded by the windshield wiper bracket, replaced that ancient fuse, mounted my antenna thoroughly, and then triple checked everything to make sure there were no loose connections, etc. Very clean work. Good crimps that are insulted, EVERYTHING. Heck, I even checked to make sure I had the cable from the radio the amp plugged in correctly to the pins. It only goes on one way so that checked out fine.

Then to top it all off, after I dropped my son off at his school I decided to fire up the radio again. Then I heard some popping sound coming from the back of the radio and immediately turned it off. No fuses blew, there was no smoke, nothing.

I did smell a little bit of heat I think, but I really don't know. The traffic is crazy here and you get whiffs of everything. I also don't have my glovebox installed and the amp sits right in front of the speaker. Now, this amp gets pretty warm so it might have just been that. The amp and radio wasn't abnormally hot to the touch, just warm as usual.

Freaked me the "you know what" out. So I pulled over as soon as I could and made sure nothing was melting or on fire. Nothing, which was a huge relief. I unplugged everthing for the time being until I can afford have someone look at this. Which could be a VERY LONG time.

Don't have any more money to throw into this whole radio deal at the moment. Guess it'll just be another ornament like my old radio. Damn...

Very dissapointed as I busted my ass off doing all my research and time into putting this radio in my car. To make sure I wasn't the one that hooked anything up wrong.

I'm not giving up, I just don't know where or what to do now.

Again, I made sure this Radio Phil on here had good feeback, and I saw nothing negative about him. He was also really good to do business with. The add claimed that it was a restored, working radio, and that it has been cleaned, tested, benchmarked, and the whole nine yards.

However, I have to suspect there is seriously something messed up with the radio now. This is all definitely not normal.

What could have caused those popping noises?

[Dangermouse]

Were any of the original electrolytic capacitors replaced when it was cleaned, tested and benchmarked? The word restored means different things to different people...
_________________
Do not follow me, for I may not lead. Do not lead me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me either; actually just bugger off and stand over there will you.

[type1vwjapan]

not too sure, but I would think so. I know there was in issue when he was converting it to 12 volts for me, and he had to order some unforseen additional parts to finish the conversion. Something about how this amp was 6 volts only and it couldn't be switched as easily as the blaunpunkt radios. I was told not to worry and that he'd made many of these conversions before.

He said the radio was converted successfully and that he tested it before shipping it out.

HMMMMM...

[type1vwjapan]

Yeah, I've heard that. The radio looks fine, but that won't do me any good. Hell, I had another radio in the car that already "looked" fine.