How to change EMPI f/r disc brake pads

[catahoula lou]

Before doing the following work, I searched for but could not readily find a thread addressing this topic.

I finally got my 59 ragtop on the road after sitting for ~3 years following a complete change from drum to disc brakes (been busy with other priorities). After about 60 miles, one of the brakes developed a very loud/intermittent deep thrumming sound (not a squeal). Determined that it was the left-rear brake. I have a video, but can't get it from my phone to computer to upload to this site.

I visited Blodgett's (San Bernardino CA) and Stacey suggested that one of the pads was vibrating and that I needed to re-install both with CRC Disc Brake Quiet, a goop that eventually cures between the back of the pad and the front of the piston, acting as a local anti-vibration layer.

Bought the CRC, removed the caliper/pads, installed layer of CRC at the contact points, let cure for recommended 10 minutes, and tried to re-install caliper/pads. However, the piston had moved inward, preventing the re-installation.

Re-visited Blodgett's, and Stacey and Fred showed me how to rotate the piston backward to allow re-installation of caliper/pads. Also, advised removing E-brake spring before doing this work, as it will keep pushing piston outward a bit. You cannot push rear pistons back into place with tools like the front pistons, as they need to be rotated.

Once I knew what I was doing, the left-rear brake when so fast that I did the remaining 3 brakes as a proactive measure to prevent another brake from making the same sound (or squeal) down the road.

So, here's my summary on doing the brakes, after removing the wheels:

REAR BRAKES

1. Disconnect E-brake cable after loosening nut at E-brake handle, save circlip
2. Remove top spring with pliers/channel locks - do not need to remove the bolt, spring will simply slip off
3. Disconnect brake line
4. Loosen 13mm-head pad carrier bolts, but don't remove yet
5. Remove 17mm-head caliper bolts, along with entire caliper, taking note of where the centering spacers are located (very important)
6. Remove carrier/pads from caliper
7. Add CRC to contact points on back of pads and set aside for 10-minute cure
8. Rotate piston clockwise backward into place using either a disc brake piston tool, or a pair of needle-nose pliers. Be careful not to damage rubber seal and make sure the recessed cross is aligned vertically/horizontally relative to the caliper so that the nub on the back of the pad fits into one of the recesses
9. After CRC has cured (will still be a little goopy), install pads/carrier into caliper, and tighten bolts into place, straightening up the pads
10. Install caliper into place (should just slip into place), and install bolts/spacers as before
11. Torque caliper/carrier bolts into place. Bill at EMPI recommended using a bit of threadlocker on the bolts as a safeguard (I used the blue Permatex Medium Strength gel), and to torque the caliper/carrier bolts to ~45-/25-foot-pounds.
12. Re-install brake line, top spring, E-brake cable
13. Adjust E-brake nuts
14. Bleed brakes

FRONT BRAKES

Essentially the same, except you can simply push the piston back into place without rotating.

Hope this helps and does not duplicate a prior post that I could not find.

Best,
Thom
_________________
1 great wife
2 Catahoula Leopard Dogs (Mahogany Star and Spartan) - RIP Lucy, Braveheart, & Dusty!
1 1959 mango green Ragtop Bug (the "Mango")
1 1958 pantina red Lowlight Ghia (the "Chili Pepper")

Still looking for:
(1) My Dad's 1955 356 (he raced it amateur-class at Riverside and other courses during 1950s),
(2) My parent's black 1955 hardtop bug (CA license plate FWC 201 or FWG 201), and
(3) My parent's agave green 1957 ragtop bug (CA license plate LFK 734).

[TDCTDI]

What, no video?

You should do one before this guy realizes the need .

[catahoula lou]

Like I said above, can't get from phone to computer to upload to this site.
_________________
1 great wife
2 Catahoula Leopard Dogs (Mahogany Star and Spartan) - RIP Lucy, Braveheart, & Dusty!
1 1959 mango green Ragtop Bug (the "Mango")
1 1958 pantina red Lowlight Ghia (the "Chili Pepper")

Still looking for:
(1) My Dad's 1955 356 (he raced it amateur-class at Riverside and other courses during 1950s),
(2) My parent's black 1955 hardtop bug (CA license plate FWC 201 or FWG 201), and
(3) My parent's agave green 1957 ragtop bug (CA license plate LFK 734).

[TDCTDI]

[vwoldbug]

Once you get thru this there are shims for the backside of the brake pads if they don't have them already . You should also get brake paste to lube any where metal touches metal between pads and calipers front and rear . If you have trouble finding the paste or grease the Honda dealers have it