Type 4 Oil Dipstick Tube Leak

[vavwfan1]

I've been chasing oil leaks around on my 74, Type 4. Fixed some pushrod tubes, now I have a leak coming from between the engine case and the dipstick tube. It oozes out with increase in RPM. Suspect its worse when driving, because a short 4 mile test run made quite a mess!

I'm new to the Type 4 engines, and noticed there isn't a bellows installed. Also note that the flange on the tube itself, is raised up about an inch. Should it be down on the case???

I topped the oil off, and it may be overserviced?? I plan to drain and put in 3.5+ qts and change filter. I'll then calibrate the dipstick. But I want to get the dipstick installed correctly if it is not.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

[SGKent]

totally depends where it is coming out. There is a boot on between the dipstick tube and oil filler. That can leak. The tin can wear thru the dipstick tube. And blowby can push oil out around the dipstick. The first thing you have to do is clean the area and pay close attention to where the oil first appears. Some folks use a fluorescene dye in their oil that glows under black light to make it easy to find the leak.
_________________
Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand).

George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"

1971 deluxe (sold)
1977 deluxe

[rastomas]

One of the WORST designs in VW history, if you ask me. Don't get me started with "properly sealed" or "maintained" will prevent the leak.
Those leaks get all over the belt and pulley and everything else (as leaks do).
When you take the engine out, do the mod and block off the filler tube and dipstick, and move them up to the breather box, like a Porsche.
It makes for removing the engine easier, too.
I know this doesn't answer your question, but that mod is one of the best you can do to a type 4.
_________________
"It's not 'You are what you eat', it's 'You are what you don't SHIT". Wavy Gravy.


'74 Westy

[SGKent]

I've never had any leakage there.
_________________
Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand).

George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"

1971 deluxe (sold)
1977 deluxe

[vavwfan1]

Thanks guys; Just curious if you know what the oil capacity is on a 2000 engine?

I put 3.5 qts in, and the level is really low, compared to the dipstick marks.

I'm gonna search around for the proper capacity.


regarding the dipstick tube leak, I cleaned it and buttered-up an o-ring with high temp RTV and pushed it into the void between the case and tube; hopefully, it'll take care of it??

[SGKent]

Better check

Boot (61)
dipstick tube for tin cutting into it. Part of shroud
seal inside dipstick where it sits on tube
gasket where oil filler tube mounts to case (30)
Oil filler tube if tin has cut into it (25)
Upper half for cracks (29 and 31)
Excessive blowby and/or plugged breather

_________________
Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand).

George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"

1971 deluxe (sold)
1977 deluxe

[vavwfan1]

Yep; I'm going to pull the alternator out tomorrow and check the area, right after checking breather. The engine looks like it has a single, two-barrel carb on it, which I don't think is standard. Gotta figure out where breather circuit is.

THAT SAID; curious if I pull the oil filler cap off, tie-wrap a rubber glove on it, and if it blows up,,,,,,,, would that be an indication of a breather problem??(asking for a friend - lol)

I asked this question in another thread (because I'm a bone head), about front seal (at clutch; or is that rear??). But the question was, "Can the front and rear seals be replaced without splitting the case?

[SGKent]

[vavwfan1]

I'm pretty sure the pistons and cylinders/pistons are relatively new. Can the compression rings be installed backwards, causing the problem??

[Wildthings]

[vavwfan1]

Thanks; So I recon the Alternator, Muffler and Cooling shroud has to be accessed to get to the dip stick "boot"?? (remember, I'm new to these engines)

That said, I'm going to check for breather blockage.

Of course this bus is bastardized, with a 2-Barrel Carburetor.

I see two breather hoses. One on the LH side of engine, running from cooling air plenum -to- a nipple of the aft, firewall shroud. I dunno what that does??

The other is n a breather box on top of engine, aft of carburetor, running into the air-cleaner housing.

I assume the one on top of engine is the main breather and with engine running, I should have positive crankcase ventilation. I removed the breather-box cover, and there was oil there, but not soaked?? Not sure if the nipple on the air cleaner housing is also a PVC valve, but will check that too.

Thanks again for your help.

[/img]

[aeromech]

How well do your brakes work? I'm guessing not good.
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[SGKent]

you need to make sure both ends of that hose are working right - it is far too clean for a breather hose. Also you need a flame trap. The fumes must be able to leave the block freely into that hose, and then go into the carb. If that side passage where the hose is attached isn't working right then the venting means nothing. There is usually a lever on a carb like that which opens off idle, and sometimes those get broken or disconnected. Unless that hose was replaced 48 hours ago it is way too clean to be venting blowby.
_________________
Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand).

George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"

1971 deluxe (sold)
1977 deluxe

[vavwfan1]

[Aeromech wrote:How well do your brakes work? I'm guessing not good. ]

You are correct.. Haven't gotten that far yet. Still chasing oil leaks[/quote]

[vavwfan1]

SG Kent; Yer right, the hose was fairly dry, but the 10 miles I drove yesterday, I didn't have air cleaner installed, which I assume, is my first mistake.

Aeromech wrote, about the brake (booster), not working. He is equally correct, so I have to chase that circuit.....

I took the square breather can off the top of the engine. Nothing is inside; nor is there anything in the engine cavity. I will look into what should be there. Assuming the (after market-type) air filter I have, but not installed when I ran it, may "perhaps" be why the engine isn't breathing?? But would it explain leaks at the dipstick tube and forward, flywheel bearing??

[SGKent]

if the carb end of the vent opens when the throttle is opened it works. On the engine side that can has to allow the fumes to pass thru. You should be able to blow freely thru the hose in both directions - into and thru the carb, and into and thru the breather box. The throttle on the carb may need to be opened to blow freely towards the carb.
_________________
Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand).

George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"

1971 deluxe (sold)
1977 deluxe

[vavwfan1]

Thanks SG. I have that fitting that goes through the filter housing.

Not shown (not installed) is the K&G clip-on, air-filter.

The breather tube goes into the bottom of the air filter housing, and just sits there. I'm not sure if it has enough "draw" to "pull" the crankcase vent into the carburetor??

I haven't run it with the air filter on, but PO did, and still had leaks.

I'm also working on a temporary, modification to get better draw, by extending the tube, up over the air intake, just above the choke & throttle valves.

The bus is clearly, not stock.

Best I can think of right now. Been talking with folks that said bad breather system causes oil leaks on newly overhauled engines, so yeah, I'm going to get a positive draw on this, one way or another....

If it works, I'll let u know......

FYI: There is no valve or anything that opens with throttle. Its just a straight hose that goes from the breather box to the air-cleaner base. No check valves or anything in between.....

[SGKent]

make sure that the elbow is not plugged. That is the point. They have a tendency to plug up over time with all sorts of a greasy mess. If the plumbing is open the blowby will get out and that is not your problem.

FWIW a dealership handed me a job once on a Fiat 132 that a guy insisted he needed a valve job regardless that compression was good. I said probably not, what is his real issue? He kept insisting on wanting a valve job, so I pulled the head, took it to a machine shop I also worked at, and did a top A1 job on it like it was a racing head, on my own time. He could not have gotten better from anyone in the world. The next morning after he picked it up it was back and he was complaining that the cam seals leaked. So I pulled it apart again, replaced them again. He was quite sincere in that it didn't leak there before although I had mentioned before the valve job that the engine was covered in oil, and that the cause should be found. When I had tried to discuss that oil all over the engine before the valve job, he blew it off and said leave it alone. I documented that. Then the next morning it was back again with him whining that it still leaked oil. What? I had a firm angry discussion with him that we had discussed oil leaks, and he was adamant that wasn't something he wanted to have us work on to fix. So far he was about $650 - $750 into work on the car. He finally admitted that all along he thought the head was behind the oil leak and that is why he insisted on a valve job, new cam seals etc.. Once he capitulated that he didn't have a clue what was causing it but he wanted that fixed, it took me 3 minutes to locate the culprit which was a plugged breather hose and flame trap. Ten minutes later it was fixed. Frankly I probably would not have even charged him for that if he had brought the car in complaining about the leaks. The moral is very simple. Don't start self diagnosing oil leaks without checking to be sure the breather isn't plugged. Had he not been so much of a dick about not wanting to pay to investigate the oil leaking from the engine he could have saved himself about $750 in 1980 money.
_________________
Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand).

George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"

1971 deluxe (sold)
1977 deluxe

[vavwfan1]

Great point; Thanks!! The breather is clear from the box, up into the filter base, where the hose connection attaches to.

Ive got the mod done over the choke/throttle valves,,,,, "just to see if it help??" It may do nothing, but right now, I'm still in troubleshooting phase.


wish me luck - lol... And thanks again for the help.

[SGKent]