2.0 liter engine final wiring

[Rob_Johnston]

Hello everyone,

This is my first time posting anything on here because I have found almost everything I need to know from other people's forums. I have spent the last 2 years rebuilding the engine for my 1976 camper van. It is a 2.0 liter engine and now with hydraulic lifters. What I am writing this forum for is some help with the final wiring. I have heard that incorrect wiring of the ignition coil can cause it to explode. Here are some photos of what I'm working with

This wire had a white fuse inside of the black part, it comes from the left side on the firewall and I believe it connects to the ignition coil but I am not entirely sure.

The only thing I lost in the build was the double relay so there is a new one.

There are two wires that split out from the harness of the fuel injectors, not sure where these plug into, my guess is the intake body.

So right now I have the green wire from the distributor cap attached to the oil pressure sensor which I think is wrong, does this wire connect to the ignition coil?

Here is the wiring for the heat booster fan, not quite sure what the frayed wires are for but I believe they will not effect starting, again correct me if I am wrong.

This I know plugs into the voltage regulator but there are two wires coming from the same harness and I am not sure where they go.

I believe this grounds somewhere?

These both come from the alternator and eventually too the voltage regulator, I left one outside of the engine bay because I think it needs to be bolted on somewhere?

This guy I think grounds somewhere, it is coming directly out of the harness for the ECU.

This mess comes from the circuit testing unit.

These come from the same harness as what I believe is the wiring for the heat booster fan. Not sure if they should wire into the ignition coil but if I remember correctly this is how it looked when I bought it.

Feel free to absolutely tear me apart in your comments, I'm hear to learn I can take it lol.

If you need more pictures or videos I will upload them.

Thanks for looking have a great day!

[Wildthings]

The black wire from your ignition switch goes to the #15 side of the coil and not the #1 side. The black wire with the fuse in it also attaches to the #15 side, this triggers your FI and powers the blackup lights. The green wire on the distributor goes to the #1 side on the coil.

There should be a blue wire near the regulator that connects with the extra blue wire coming off of the regulator plug.

The blue/black wire running with your black ignition wire goes to the oil pressure switch. Not sure about the tan blue wire in that harness, maybe dealer plug?

The cable with the discolored white sheathing hanging underneath goes from the alternator to the big lug on the starter solenoid, it should run above the engine tin.

I would just tape off all the wires for the heater fan so they can't short to anything.

Those two unused white wires probably go to some FI accessory you do not have.

The extra black wires near the regulator are probably for the obsolete dealer test plug, the one should be disconnected under the back cover of the alternator so it doesn't have power on it. Tie it back on itself with a wire tie and tape it well.

[JaimeH]

Where are you in New Hampshire? I might be able to help you out.
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1978 Transporter 2.0 FI, BA6
Special Thanks to Razor's Customs, Boscawen, NH

[Abscate]

You are taking a big chance wiring by colour. Most of these cars have had multiple wiring hacks and so all colour references are questionable.

The blower fan and reverse lights are the two things which tap off the terminal 15 side of the coil. The distributor green wire goes on the other. It won’t blow up if you wire it backwards; eliminate that source of information from your feed.
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[Jetfxr69]

Lots of concerns about what youve put together there. If youve got a 76’ GD motor ( is fan shroud correct for that motor?), then your motor was a mechanical lifter style. I read that you went with hydraulic lifters. Did the motor get opened and was the cam changed to run those hydraulics?

You cant mix one style lifter with the other style cam.

Hard to see the motor number in the second pic, but it looks like a 4-digit code. That would make it an early model GD which would have had electrically controlled, vacuum operated egr valve over by #3 & 4 cyl’s. Your harness will have a single booted connector ( like the injectors) for that. If its that style motor you will also have a single wire to connect to the throttle switch down under the throttle body.

The large wire your holding that came off the alt harness is the power lead off the starter.

The blue wire with connector on the alt harness is the feed for the alt dash light. It connects to the blue wire coming through the firewall. The black wire with connector off that same harness is ganged together with the B+ power lead from alt to starter. It is 12v right off the alt and can be used if needed for running voltage. Mine is not hooked up.

Im in the north country and have both early and later model GD model FI motors. PM if your interested in some further help.
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You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer. Zappa

‘77 westy Seamus
‘76 tintop Crusher
‘77 westy The Judge
‘72 tintop bastard westy Hudson

[Wasted youth]

This was my 1977 California emissions bus. Scroll down three photos for some wiring harness details. The rest of the thread might not apply. I hope this helps.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8133639#8133639

[Hoppy Camper]

yeah man, where in NH are you at? This wiring can easily be done when you have a correctly wired example next to you
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1979 Mexico Beige Westy auto
The Wilds of New Hampshire!
www.hoppycampernh.com
https://youtube.com/@hoppycamper

[Rob_Johnston]

Thank you all for your responses

I have rewired as you instructed @wildthings, the only thing that did not make sense is the "blue/black wire running with your black ignition wire goes to the oil pressure switch" is a male connection while so is the oil pressure switch.

For everyone asking where I am located I am in Durham New Hampshire, if anyone would be willing to come take a look just give me a day and I will make time.

@jetfxr69 I completely rebuilt the engine for hydraulic lifters, I had the camshaft reground so do not worry, I worked with a professional air cooled builder down in Massachusetts that explained everything and told me where I needed to go to get these specialty jobs done.

@Gregg in the 603 It looks like your in Dover which is only a few minutes from Durham, If you would be willing to give me a hand whenever you are available I would be extremely thankful.

Thanks again I am beyond stoked!

[cmonSTART]

That may be possible!
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'78 Bus 2.0FI
de K1IGS

[germansupplyscott]

[Wildthings]

[Jetfxr69]

Good to hear that youve got your cam and lifters in order. Looks like a you spent some time dressing it up too. Good luck and report back once running. Sorry, Your a couple hours southeast of me, and no disrespect, but I try NOT to “ go below the notches”.

Nice to hear and see another NH bus getting back on the road. I read that you just began posting after lurking for a while. Stay in the loop. Slowly building up a robust Northeast community.

If you ever find yourself cruising or camping up north, hit me up. Im always up for a visit or tinkering.

Wildthings will have more sound advice than myself, so follow his leads first.
_________________
You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer. Zappa

‘77 westy Seamus
‘76 tintop Crusher
‘77 westy The Judge
‘72 tintop bastard westy Hudson