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veedub1969Cali Samba Member
Joined: March 27, 2011 Posts: 3 Location: Pasadena, CA
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Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 10:36 am Post subject: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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To make a long story short I purchased Donna aka "The Champ" in 2004. In 2013 my wife joined the US Navy Medical Service Corps as a Psychologist. Consequently, we had to pull up stakes and move around the US and the world. Unfortunately we could not take Donna so she was put in storage - first at my friends house, then my brothers, and finally at my in-laws. Seven years later our life had finally stabilized enough and we were able to bring Donna home.
Seven years in storage is not easy on any vehicle especially one that is 51 years old. One of her tires was totally rotten and needed to be replaced so we could get her on the trailer. The passenger side carb was clogged and the other barely worked. The engine oil was black as tar. The transmission was leaking like a screen door on a submarine. And the brakes did not work at all.
I ended up replacing the master cylinder and both brake fluid reservoirs as well as the line between them. That was a much bigger project than I was expecting. Then Covid hit and the repairs ground to a halt.
Fast forward a few months and got to work on the brakes again. That is when I discovered that passenger rear wheel cylinder was leaking oil. It was time to get those castle nuts off.
I picked up two iron bars for concrete foundation work as well as a titanium 1/2 drill bit at the local hardware store. The 1/2" bit was just a smidge to small for the lug nut so I had to file out the hole to get it to fit.
Bolted the bars onto the drum brake and proceeded to snap a pipe wrench in half jumping up and down on it...
My good friend and next door neighbor is a wrenching nut and helped me with pretty much every step of this project. He also happens to be the maintenance officer for an Amphibious Assault Vehicle Battalion. So, he brought home a torque multiplier that they use to repairs tanks. Put 200lbs of torque in and it outputs 1200lbs of torque!
Turns out those iron bars were not nearly strong enough and the castle nuts were STILL not loose.
Back to the drawing board....
Turns out a tow strap attached to the tow hitch on my vehicle provided enough tension to keep the wheel from spinning and finally got the castle nuts off!
During this whole ordeal my wife was on me saying once I got the brakes fixed it would be time to sell Donna. I had mixed emotions about it... Turns out my friend the maintenance officer's wife has a thriving photography business. She desperately wanted to do a photo shoot with our bus as a prop.
During the shoot my wife leaned over and whispered in my ear: "I have been thinking... I want to keep Donna." So, that settled that - we are keeping her... and now the brakes are working.
Big shout out to my friend who stayed up way too late more nights than I can count helping me get the brakes fixed. It was a fun project... Next up is to replace the wheels and tires and replace the transmission. |
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Abscate  Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014 Posts: 24016 Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 10:41 am Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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Iβm glad this worked out for you but it is horrible practice. The way to break bound fasteners is not more torque, but my instead, you break the binding Up.
Penetrating oil, applied over days
Vibration - 100 taps with a hammer
Heat
Propane
Mapp
Oxy
Let candle wax seep back in while cooling _________________ πΊπΈ πΊπΈ πΊπΈ πΊπΈ πΊπΈ πΊπΈ πΊπΈ π π π |
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SGKent  Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 42731 Location: at the beach
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Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 10:42 am Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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they can be a b^tch to get off. I broke a 1" breaker bar off bouncing on one of mine. Did the math later and I was putting about 1800 - 2000 lbs on it as I recall when I bounced. I was hanging onto the gutter rail with gloves on when it broke so that helped save me from a fall.
Came to the conclusion that this tool is probably the easiest solution. One can apply a steady pressure and then shock the nut with a sharp blow. There are two different sizes of this tool for the different years.
_________________ "Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin |
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veedub1969Cali Samba Member
Joined: March 27, 2011 Posts: 3 Location: Pasadena, CA
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Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 11:09 am Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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Abscate wrote: |
Iβm glad this worked out for you but it is horrible practice. The way to break bound fasteners is not more torque, but my instead, you break the binding Up.
Penetrating oil, applied over days
Vibration - 100 taps with a hammer
Let candle wax seep back in while cooling |
Should have mentioned that I had been applying PB Blaster for several weeks as well as lots of whacks with a hammer day in and day out too...
I was a little sketched to apply heat with a propane torch because of the amount of leaking brake fluid residue and other fluids... Maybe if she was parked outside and not in my garage I would have tried it, but I did not want to burn my house down...
Not sure what
are... Can you elaborate? I posted this as resource for anyone who may find themselves in the same boat.
Last edited by veedub1969Cali on Fri Aug 28, 2020 11:12 am; edited 1 time in total |
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veedub1969Cali Samba Member
Joined: March 27, 2011 Posts: 3 Location: Pasadena, CA
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Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 11:12 am Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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SGKent wrote: |
Came to the conclusion that this tool is probably the easiest solution. One can apply a steady pressure and then shock the nut with a sharp blow. There are two different sizes of this tool for the different years.
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Where do you get that tool, and what is it called?
Amen to your footer message bro  |
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alman72 Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2014 Posts: 2576 Location: MICHIGAN
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Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 12:25 pm Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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mapp and oxy are gas for a torch |
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jtauxe  Samba Member

Joined: September 30, 2004 Posts: 5976 Location: Los Alamos, New Mexico, USA
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Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 12:29 pm Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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mapp = mapp gas
oxy = oxyacetylene (not oxycontin) _________________ John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD
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telford dorr Samba Member

Joined: March 11, 2009 Posts: 3625 Location: San Diego (Encinitas)
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Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 1:56 pm Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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Aeromech has a battery-powered 3/4" (?) impact wrench which (when used with a shot of spray lube) takes those nuts off right now - no delay! _________________ '71 panel, now with FI
'Experience' is the ability to recognize a mistake when you're making it again - Franklin P. Jones
In theory, theory works in practice; in practice, it doesn't - William T. Harbaugh
When you're dead, you don't know you're dead. The pain is only felt by others.
Same thing happens when you're stupid. - Philippe Geluck
More VW electrical at http://telforddorr.com/ (available 9am to 9pm PST)
Last edited by telford dorr on Fri Aug 28, 2020 3:41 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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TomWesty Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2007 Posts: 3529 Location: Wyoming,USA
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Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 3:38 pm Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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telford dorr wrote: |
Aeromech has a battery-powered impact wrench which (when used with a shot of spray lube) takes those nuts off right now - no delay! |
I wish my battery powered 1/2β impact would free my lower shock bolt! The nut came right off but the bolt wonβt budge. Been blasting it with liquid wrench, so will try again. Also, some whacks with BFH will be applied.  _________________ If you haven't bled on them, you haven't worked on them.
Visit: www.tomcoryell.com and check out my music! |
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telford dorr Samba Member

Joined: March 11, 2009 Posts: 3625 Location: San Diego (Encinitas)
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Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 3:44 pm Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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HEAT is the answer. Hit it with a torch to warm it up good. It'll then come out. (Don't overheat - don't want any metallurgical changes.) _________________ '71 panel, now with FI
'Experience' is the ability to recognize a mistake when you're making it again - Franklin P. Jones
In theory, theory works in practice; in practice, it doesn't - William T. Harbaugh
When you're dead, you don't know you're dead. The pain is only felt by others.
Same thing happens when you're stupid. - Philippe Geluck
More VW electrical at http://telforddorr.com/ (available 9am to 9pm PST) |
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Abscate  Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014 Posts: 24016 Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 5:33 pm Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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You are chemically breaking up the rust when you heat, not just expanding stuff.
If you needed 2000 ft lbs of torque to remove it, you may as well throw that fastener out anyway,so no need to worry about overheating.
I would Dremel that off for a new one. Iβm doing hardened steel front end bolts in 30 seconds with the reinforced wheels _________________ πΊπΈ πΊπΈ πΊπΈ πΊπΈ πΊπΈ πΊπΈ πΊπΈ π π π |
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TomWesty Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2007 Posts: 3529 Location: Wyoming,USA
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Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 8:43 pm Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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Abscate wrote: |
You are chemically breaking up the rust when you heat, not just expanding stuff.
If you needed 2000 ft lbs of torque to remove it, you may as well throw that fastener out anyway,so no need to worry about overheating.
I would Dremel that off for a new one. Iβm doing hardened steel front end bolts in 30 seconds with the reinforced wheels |
The bolt wonβt be used again. _________________ If you haven't bled on them, you haven't worked on them.
Visit: www.tomcoryell.com and check out my music! |
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timvw7476 Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2013 Posts: 2494 Location: seattle
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Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 9:09 pm Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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veedub1969Cali wrote: |
SGKent wrote: |
Came to the conclusion that this tool is probably the easiest solution. One can apply a steady pressure and then shock the nut with a sharp blow. There are two different sizes of this tool for the different years.
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Where do you get that tool, and what is it called?
Amen to your footer message bro  |
EMPI catalog should have it.
Beautiful tool for a brutal job.
And you get to keep your original nutZ!! ++. |
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Youcanguruyoucan Samba Member
Joined: August 22, 2020 Posts: 1 Location: Oregon
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Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 10:45 pm Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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Since we're all here and this looks like this is a fresh subject, does anyone know where I can find the pivot pins that hold the parking break lever to the break shoe inside the drum? All I'm able to find is the pin that holds the rod on the emergency break lever under the cab. By the way I also removed a castellated nut today myself. No place in town had a 46mm socket so I used a pipe wrench and a long piece of heavy walled steel tubing I had at my shop (sorry no pictures). I got the nut off and bent the pipe wrench to boot. I'll be replacing the nut and maybe buying a new pipe wrench. Also that little wrench thingy someone was looking for is available at JBugs. They call it an "Axle Nut Removal Tool".
Last edited by Youcanguruyoucan on Sat Aug 29, 2020 11:06 am; edited 2 times in total |
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SGKent  Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 42731 Location: at the beach
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Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 10:46 pm Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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Abscate wrote: |
You are chemically breaking up the rust when you heat, not just expanding stuff.
If you needed 2000 ft lbs of torque to remove it, you may as well throw that fastener out anyway,so no need to worry about overheating.
I would Dremel that off for a new one. Iβm doing hardened steel front end bolts in 30 seconds with the reinforced wheels |
It didn't come off with that torque - the 1" forged breaker bar snapped. The dremel cut it off, and I replaced the axle too just to be safe. _________________ "Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin |
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crukab Samba Chef

Joined: December 13, 2002 Posts: 6131 Location: Vermont
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Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 6:12 am Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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That ^^^^^^^^^^^ is some crazy assed shit right there !!
I never would have thought of that move, glad it worked out.
My wife bought me a Oxy/Acc. torch set up when I graduated Culinary school in '85, and I grew up cutting w/ a torch on old cars ect. w/ my Dad, so heat was the 3rd go-to after wd-40 type spray, and power.
And VERY COOL that your buds wife sunk the VW hook into your wife, kind of saved your project ! _________________ Tom
My Pops:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604100&highlight=
I know you will always be with me, rest in peace with no more pain. 8/13/14.....
In the yard right now:
'51 Dodge 5 window truck
'65 Bug
'66 Singlecab
'82 Rabbit Truck Diesel from CALI
'86 Doublecab W/T
'91 Vanagon carat/wolfsbrg.Tiico
'88 Dodge Ram pickup
'11 Jetta Wagon |
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Manfred58sc Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2009 Posts: 3466
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Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 6:51 am Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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Interesting solution. Glad your wife let you keep your possessions. If you are wondering where your balls are , they are in her purse next to the appointment book.... _________________ Fat chick owner/operator |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52441
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Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 6:59 am Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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Now buy Vanagon castellated nuts for your rear axles and use the Vanagon torque specs verses the Bay spec. The Vanagon nuts have extra castellations which allow for a higher minimum torque to the nut, but often much less torque by the time you get the castellations aligned with the hole in the axle. |
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alaskadan Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2013 Posts: 1941 Location: anchor pt. alaska
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Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 8:40 am Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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SGKent wrote: |
they can be a b^tch to get off. I broke a 1" breaker bar off bouncing on one of mine. Did the math later and I was putting about 1800 - 2000 lbs on it as I recall when I bounced. I was hanging onto the gutter rail with gloves on when it broke so that helped save me from a fall.
Came to the conclusion that this tool is probably the easiest solution. One can apply a steady pressure and then shock the nut with a sharp blow. There are two different sizes of this tool for the different years.
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Some call those " slug wrenches ". I acquired one from a guy whose van I helped restore who died . Mine has about a 12" long handle cast into it . It works pretty well. On the vanagon forum there was discussion about them being bad on bearings. They never usually see such sharp metal to metal blows. I dunno. |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52441
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Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 9:44 am Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts |
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alaskadan wrote: |
SGKent wrote: |
they can be a b^tch to get off. I broke a 1" breaker bar off bouncing on one of mine. Did the math later and I was putting about 1800 - 2000 lbs on it as I recall when I bounced. I was hanging onto the gutter rail with gloves on when it broke so that helped save me from a fall.
Came to the conclusion that this tool is probably the easiest solution. One can apply a steady pressure and then shock the nut with a sharp blow. There are two different sizes of this tool for the different years.
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Some call those " slug wrenches ". I acquired one from a guy whose van I helped restore who died . Mine has about a 12" long handle cast into it . It works pretty well. On the vanagon forum there was discussion about them being bad on bearings. They never usually see such sharp metal to metal blows. I dunno. |
If the vehicle weight is sitting on the tire, then the force of the blow does not go through the bearings, neither would it go through the bearings if the drum was sitting on a wooden block.
Yes a offset slug wrench or striking wrench is a good way to go.
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