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How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts
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veedub1969Cali
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 10:36 am    Post subject: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

To make a long story short I purchased Donna aka "The Champ" in 2004. In 2013 my wife joined the US Navy Medical Service Corps as a Psychologist. Consequently, we had to pull up stakes and move around the US and the world. Unfortunately we could not take Donna so she was put in storage - first at my friends house, then my brothers, and finally at my in-laws. Seven years later our life had finally stabilized enough and we were able to bring Donna home.
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Seven years in storage is not easy on any vehicle especially one that is 51 years old. One of her tires was totally rotten and needed to be replaced so we could get her on the trailer. The passenger side carb was clogged and the other barely worked. The engine oil was black as tar. The transmission was leaking like a screen door on a submarine. And the brakes did not work at all.

I ended up replacing the master cylinder and both brake fluid reservoirs as well as the line between them. That was a much bigger project than I was expecting. Then Covid hit and the repairs ground to a halt.

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Fast forward a few months and got to work on the brakes again. That is when I discovered that passenger rear wheel cylinder was leaking oil. It was time to get those castle nuts off.

I picked up two iron bars for concrete foundation work as well as a titanium 1/2 drill bit at the local hardware store. The 1/2" bit was just a smidge to small for the lug nut so I had to file out the hole to get it to fit.

Bolted the bars onto the drum brake and proceeded to snap a pipe wrench in half jumping up and down on it...

My good friend and next door neighbor is a wrenching nut and helped me with pretty much every step of this project. He also happens to be the maintenance officer for an Amphibious Assault Vehicle Battalion. So, he brought home a torque multiplier that they use to repairs tanks. Put 200lbs of torque in and it outputs 1200lbs of torque!

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Turns out those iron bars were not nearly strong enough and the castle nuts were STILL not loose.

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Back to the drawing board....

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Turns out a tow strap attached to the tow hitch on my vehicle provided enough tension to keep the wheel from spinning and finally got the castle nuts off!

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During this whole ordeal my wife was on me saying once I got the brakes fixed it would be time to sell Donna. I had mixed emotions about it... Turns out my friend the maintenance officer's wife has a thriving photography business. She desperately wanted to do a photo shoot with our bus as a prop.

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During the shoot my wife leaned over and whispered in my ear: "I have been thinking... I want to keep Donna." So, that settled that - we are keeping her... and now the brakes are working.

Big shout out to my friend who stayed up way too late more nights than I can count helping me get the brakes fixed. It was a fun project... Next up is to replace the wheels and tires and replace the transmission.
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Abscate Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 10:41 am    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

I’m glad this worked out for you but it is horrible practice. The way to break bound fasteners is not more torque, but my instead, you break the binding Up.

Penetrating oil, applied over days
Vibration - 100 taps with a hammer
Heat
Propane
Mapp
Oxy

Let candle wax seep back in while cooling
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 10:42 am    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

they can be a b^tch to get off. I broke a 1" breaker bar off bouncing on one of mine. Did the math later and I was putting about 1800 - 2000 lbs on it as I recall when I bounced. I was hanging onto the gutter rail with gloves on when it broke so that helped save me from a fall.

Came to the conclusion that this tool is probably the easiest solution. One can apply a steady pressure and then shock the nut with a sharp blow. There are two different sizes of this tool for the different years.

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veedub1969Cali
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 11:09 am    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
I’m glad this worked out for you but it is horrible practice. The way to break bound fasteners is not more torque, but my instead, you break the binding Up.

Penetrating oil, applied over days
Vibration - 100 taps with a hammer

Let candle wax seep back in while cooling


Should have mentioned that I had been applying PB Blaster for several weeks as well as lots of whacks with a hammer day in and day out too...

I was a little sketched to apply heat with a propane torch because of the amount of leaking brake fluid residue and other fluids... Maybe if she was parked outside and not in my garage I would have tried it, but I did not want to burn my house down... Laughing Laughing

Not sure what
Abscate wrote:

Mapp
Oxy
are... Can you elaborate? I posted this as resource for anyone who may find themselves in the same boat.

Last edited by veedub1969Cali on Fri Aug 28, 2020 11:12 am; edited 1 time in total
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veedub1969Cali
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 11:12 am    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
Came to the conclusion that this tool is probably the easiest solution. One can apply a steady pressure and then shock the nut with a sharp blow. There are two different sizes of this tool for the different years.

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Where do you get that tool, and what is it called?

Amen to your footer message bro Cool
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alman72
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 12:25 pm    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

mapp and oxy are gas for a torch
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jtauxe Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 12:29 pm    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

mapp = mapp gas

oxy = oxyacetylene (not oxycontin)
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 1:56 pm    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

Aeromech has a battery-powered 3/4" (?) impact wrench which (when used with a shot of spray lube) takes those nuts off right now - no delay!
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TomWesty
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 3:38 pm    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

telford dorr wrote:
Aeromech has a battery-powered impact wrench which (when used with a shot of spray lube) takes those nuts off right now - no delay!
I wish my battery powered 1/2” impact would free my lower shock bolt! The nut came right off but the bolt won’t budge. Been blasting it with liquid wrench, so will try again. Also, some whacks with BFH will be applied. Wink
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telford dorr
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 3:44 pm    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

HEAT is the answer. Hit it with a torch to warm it up good. It'll then come out. (Don't overheat - don't want any metallurgical changes.)
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'Experience' is the ability to recognize a mistake when you're making it again - Franklin P. Jones
In theory, theory works in practice; in practice, it doesn't - William T. Harbaugh
When you're dead, you don't know you're dead. The pain is only felt by others.
Same thing happens when you're stupid. - Philippe Geluck
More VW electrical at http://telforddorr.com/ (available 9am to 9pm PST)
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 5:33 pm    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

You are chemically breaking up the rust when you heat, not just expanding stuff.

If you needed 2000 ft lbs of torque to remove it, you may as well throw that fastener out anyway,so no need to worry about overheating.

I would Dremel that off for a new one. I’m doing hardened steel front end bolts in 30 seconds with the reinforced wheels
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TomWesty
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 8:43 pm    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
You are chemically breaking up the rust when you heat, not just expanding stuff.

If you needed 2000 ft lbs of torque to remove it, you may as well throw that fastener out anyway,so no need to worry about overheating.

I would Dremel that off for a new one. I’m doing hardened steel front end bolts in 30 seconds with the reinforced wheels
The bolt won’t be used again.
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timvw7476
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 9:09 pm    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

veedub1969Cali wrote:
SGKent wrote:
Came to the conclusion that this tool is probably the easiest solution. One can apply a steady pressure and then shock the nut with a sharp blow. There are two different sizes of this tool for the different years.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Where do you get that tool, and what is it called?

Amen to your footer message bro Cool


EMPI catalog should have it.
Beautiful tool for a brutal job.
And you get to keep your original nutZ!! ++.
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Youcanguruyoucan
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 10:45 pm    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

Since we're all here and this looks like this is a fresh subject, does anyone know where I can find the pivot pins that hold the parking break lever to the break shoe inside the drum? All I'm able to find is the pin that holds the rod on the emergency break lever under the cab. By the way I also removed a castellated nut today myself. No place in town had a 46mm socket so I used a pipe wrench and a long piece of heavy walled steel tubing I had at my shop (sorry no pictures). I got the nut off and bent the pipe wrench to boot. I'll be replacing the nut and maybe buying a new pipe wrench. Also that little wrench thingy someone was looking for is available at JBugs. They call it an "Axle Nut Removal Tool".

Last edited by Youcanguruyoucan on Sat Aug 29, 2020 11:06 am; edited 2 times in total
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 10:46 pm    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

Abscate wrote:
You are chemically breaking up the rust when you heat, not just expanding stuff.

If you needed 2000 ft lbs of torque to remove it, you may as well throw that fastener out anyway,so no need to worry about overheating.

I would Dremel that off for a new one.
I’m doing hardened steel front end bolts in 30 seconds with the reinforced wheels

It didn't come off with that torque - the 1" forged breaker bar snapped. The dremel cut it off, and I replaced the axle too just to be safe.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 6:12 am    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

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That ^^^^^^^^^^^ is some crazy assed shit right there !! Laughing
I never would have thought of that move, glad it worked out.
My wife bought me a Oxy/Acc. torch set up when I graduated Culinary school in '85, and I grew up cutting w/ a torch on old cars ect. w/ my Dad, so heat was the 3rd go-to after wd-40 type spray, and power.
And VERY COOL that your buds wife sunk the VW hook into your wife, kind of saved your project !
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 6:51 am    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

Interesting solution. Glad your wife let you keep your possessions. If you are wondering where your balls are , they are in her purse next to the appointment book....
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 6:59 am    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

Now buy Vanagon castellated nuts for your rear axles and use the Vanagon torque specs verses the Bay spec. The Vanagon nuts have extra castellations which allow for a higher minimum torque to the nut, but often much less torque by the time you get the castellations aligned with the hole in the axle.
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alaskadan
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 8:40 am    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
they can be a b^tch to get off. I broke a 1" breaker bar off bouncing on one of mine. Did the math later and I was putting about 1800 - 2000 lbs on it as I recall when I bounced. I was hanging onto the gutter rail with gloves on when it broke so that helped save me from a fall.

Came to the conclusion that this tool is probably the easiest solution. One can apply a steady pressure and then shock the nut with a sharp blow. There are two different sizes of this tool for the different years.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Some call those " slug wrenches ". I acquired one from a guy whose van I helped restore who died Crying or Very sad . Mine has about a 12" long handle cast into it . It works pretty well. On the vanagon forum there was discussion about them being bad on bearings. They never usually see such sharp metal to metal blows. I dunno.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2020 9:44 am    Post subject: Re: How I finally removed both of my rear wheel castle nuts Reply with quote

alaskadan wrote:
SGKent wrote:
they can be a b^tch to get off. I broke a 1" breaker bar off bouncing on one of mine. Did the math later and I was putting about 1800 - 2000 lbs on it as I recall when I bounced. I was hanging onto the gutter rail with gloves on when it broke so that helped save me from a fall.

Came to the conclusion that this tool is probably the easiest solution. One can apply a steady pressure and then shock the nut with a sharp blow. There are two different sizes of this tool for the different years.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Some call those " slug wrenches ". I acquired one from a guy whose van I helped restore who died Crying or Very sad . Mine has about a 12" long handle cast into it . It works pretty well. On the vanagon forum there was discussion about them being bad on bearings. They never usually see such sharp metal to metal blows. I dunno.


If the vehicle weight is sitting on the tire, then the force of the blow does not go through the bearings, neither would it go through the bearings if the drum was sitting on a wooden block.

Yes a offset slug wrench or striking wrench is a good way to go.

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