73 Standard - pan back from sandblaster, ready for paint

[daveavw]

Finally got the pan sandblasted. I think they did a really nice job -- I don't see any issues and it's in really good shape:

Brushed on Ospho and next step is (foam) brush on Masterseries silver, then AG 111 in satin black.

Here's the bottom after Ospho:

I understand the Masterseries stuff is a little tricky. Planning on using small batches in glass jars, plastic wrap on can lid, etc. Using 3M charcoal respirator cartridges, gloves, safety goggles, and a fan for ventilation.

Any other words of wisdom before I crack open a paint can?

Dave

[Bama Dave]

Put a drop cloth under the whole thing. Wear clothes that you don’t care about.
_________________
David Richerson

!964 Beetle Sedan
1970 Beetle Sedan
1971 Super Sedan
1972 Baja

[Rome]

You are very lucky to have such a solid chassis.

MS: I used the MS silver to paint over some surface rust on Beetle wheels this summer. The foam brushes were the cheap type from a dollar store, with maybe 6 of different widths in a bag. Don't use those! Each brush started to come apart and tear at the end of the wooden handle as I was finishing up each wheel. ChuckP (vwsplitman) who sells MS here in the NorthEast told me to use a better quality foam brush such as from a HW store. Best to have several of such brushes on hand; probably a 2" and 3" brush width will work well for the large surfaces. At corners, "push" the paint into the corner or seam, then brush along the seam to spread the paint and avoid blobs. Use long, straight strokes going in front to rear direction.

[b15605]

Rome is spot on about the foam brushes...some of them will pure out disintegrate on you about 2 mins in after starting the job. I found the cheapest and easiest brushes to source locally here were the ones at harbor freight. They come in an assorted size bag and have a yellow cardboard label stapled through the bag...these held up well for the work - only negative was that there never seemed to be enough of the 1" brushes in there.

I would also suggest before you put the MS on the chassis after doing OSPHO is to due a light scuff sanding as OSPHO can leave behind loose powder then wipe down with denatured alcohol prior to painting. This is the method I used anyway and it seems to have worked very well.

Also, before adding the final topcoat, it is a good opportunity to coat the inside of the tunnel with Eastwood internal frame coating if you had plans do so. It doesn't typically get loose, but if it does it will leave army green blobs on your nice clean chassis.

This is all I can think of and it sounds like you have the rest of it figured out.

[daveavw]

Thanks for all the great comments and suggestions!

I have some Home Demo foam brushes that seem decent, but I also bought some at the friendly local hardware store that look really nice, so I'll see what happens.

I was concerned about the Ospho leaving a little bit of residue. ChuckP says he normally does not have to do further prep after using his phosphoric acid product, but I bought some denatured alcohol and think I will try wiping it down with that.

Was just going to use Fluid Film inside the tunnel and nap hat. It looks pretty good in there except for some small areas around the frame head.

[daveavw]

Well I guess I need to start putting it back together now... :D