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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 33577
Location: Hot Arizona
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 Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 12:30 pm Post subject: |
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| Mal evolent wrote: |
| discount the 1835 if you live in the southwest. thin cylinder walls, uneven heat dissipation, 115 degree days... |
Yeah, my current 1835DP has only lasted 26 years here in Phoenix. And I used to run dealer-added AC on it when that same engine was in my sedan. Maybe the parts quality was better in 1986? I saw the mechanic who built that engine just this morning. In my mirror.
My first 1835 I built in 1976 developed a case crack in some 100,000 miles later in 1986, due to the way they used to use for boring the cases back in 1976. But cylinders, pistons, and rings were OK.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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[email protected]
Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2002
Posts: 12785
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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| Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 12:31 pm Post subject: |
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now there is nothing wrong with an 1835 or 2180, if you are using the thick wall 92s those are awesome!!
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Thormr2
Samba Member
Joined: March 21, 2021
Posts: 1
Location: Norway
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| Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2021 3:48 am Post subject: |
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| DarthWeber wrote: |
Henrip, I assume a central Italian 40 is a single Weber 40IDF. You'd be much better off with dual 40IDF's. Easier to tune and more potential power, drivability and fuel mileage. I strongly recommend dual carbs.
Sorry for the hyjack Cookrw.
Are you aware of the P/C's in the link below? These 88's are thick wall machine in making them much more reliable than 87's. The base of the cylinders are turned down so they fit the stock 85.5 case spigot. All you'll need is to have your heads opened up to fit the cylinders.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=806472
I like your combo. 1760 (or 1800 w/88's), mildly ported stock valve heads, Weber 40IDF's, C35 cam, 1 3/8" exhaust will work if you don't do a lot of high speed driving.
Krusher has a similar 1800 (88 x 74), this is his dyno chart:
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I want to make a engine wich is reliable but can do alot of high speed driving for a longer time too. right now i have a original 1600AS in my 69/70 beetle. and i was thinking about making it 1776 with fuel injection and turbo. But i need it to be reliable too because i dont have enough money if it blows up haha.
do u have any suggestions for a better setup, that still rips? |
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nsracing
Samba Member
Joined: November 16, 2003
Posts: 9758
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2021 9:14 am Post subject: Re: What goes into making a 1600 a 1776? |
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the 1600cc to 1776cc = she just gotta get bigger jugs... 90.5mm sizes. 
Now who does not appreciate bigger jugs? |
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