Contemptious Upper Ball Joint

[Saturn]

For the past week and a half I have been involved in an extended wrestling match with the front suspension on my 1995 EVC, giving me the most trouble has been pressing out the upper ball joint. Last fall noted most all of the rubber boots on the ball joints were cracked open and decided it was time to replace them. New parts were ordered and read up on the procedure here as well as on several other sites and YouTube videos. Before I picked it up, my EVC spent 5 or so years parked in the Sunset District less than 1/2 mile from the Pacific Ocean. The underside components of the van do have a fair amount of surface rust as a result of where it lived.

Starting on the drivers side, the first hurdle came immediately when taking apart the brake caliper, as the pad retention pins did not want to slide out. Eventually the upper pin was persuaded out but the lower pin ended up getting stuck after just moving 1/4 or so of an inch. The caliper was removed off knuckle and put off to the side. Searched for a replacement caliper with not much luck finding one through the usual sources so I was able to source a replacement after a trip to one of the Bay Area boneyards.

Removed the nuts off of the lower and upper ball joints as well as the tie rod. Using a tool popped the tie rod out of the knuckle and loosened the two bolts securing the lower ball joint. It took several attempts to get the upper ball joint separated from the knuckle only after loosening the 27mm torsion rod nut did it finally come apart although with the e-centric plate still attached.

Pulled out my recently acquired T4 specific ball joint extractor ( https://www.amazon.com/Front-Axle-Upper-Joint-Extr...amp;sr=1-7) and set it up to press out the ball joint. Yes, the top wire clip had already been removed and had been spraying WD-40 and B'laster around the control arm collar for the previous several days. Started to tighten the tool down and utilized a metal pipe for added leverage. Soon heard a "bang", continued to tighten and then a second "bang" rang out. Continued to tighten and half-way through the rotation there was a large "Bang!" and clatter as the extractor suddenly self-destructed into 3 pieces of jagged garbage. Installed a 3-armed puller to try and push the ball joint out and it wouldn't budge.

The next day attempted to use a 3-arm puller, pickle fork and a two-piece tie rode separator to remove the e-centric plate with no luck. Borrowed a Sawzall this afternoon to cut the ball joint between the plate and control arm. Only with a 12-ton press was I able to separate the plate from the remains of the ball joint.

Pulled out an OTC ball joint extractor tool and assembled that around the tenacious ball joint. Tightened it down and heated the control arm collar area with a propane torch for a couple minutes. and then hit it collar with a 3lb hammer multiple times. Tightened the tool down till I could barely move it then added a lever and tighten more, there is a good deal of torque force being applied. Let this sit for a little while then hit the collar several times with a large sledge hammer and nothing moved. Left it set up under tension overnight to see if time will help in loosening things up. Plan B & C involve removing the control arm and taking that to the 12-ton press but not quite there yet. Never imagined this job would be so difficult and challenging.

[subdewd]

Not enough heat. Oxy torch if available works wonders

[Saturn]

[MrPulldown]

Don't take this as criticism, just trying to help. What is the cup you are pressing on in this picture. What is it bearing on?

and again in this picture.

Since the upper BJ presses DOWN, seems like I would forgo this cup and press directly onto the top tip of the BJ. It looks like the cup is bearing down on the upper control arm, not the BJ.

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2002 EVC

[Saturn]

[MrPulldown]

I would just try pressing with the tip of the threaded rod directly onto the tip of the BJ.
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2002 EVC

[Saturn]

[MrPulldown]

Well done.
Get that baby put back together and drive up to TAHOE.
Always enjoy seeing more EVCs around here.
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2002 EVC

[subdewd]

Your consternation will be someone's edification.
Well done

[Tvättbjörn]

I usually start spraying the ball joints seat / control arm two days in advance whenever possible with a good rust penetrate. Twice a day a good coat. It gives it time to penetrate thru the control arm / ball joint mounting area and makes it a lot easier to remove the ball joint.

Always measure the new ball joint diameter ( the solid portion below the ridges ) also and compare to the old one. I have seen new ball joints which were way to big to be pressed into the control arm.

[Abscate]

Pretty much any big suspension work requires a press. The hacks using pullers , small crappy removers are just self inflicted pain.

Moreover , sharing the methodologies usually is a fail because usually isn’t the actual final method that popped the joint, it was the sum of the activities prior

No more 3 hour struggles wit h hammering, exploring pullers, claws, etc.

20 ton press is$100 fro Harbor freight, or take the knuckles to a local shop for a case of beer.
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[bigfoot_ev]

Congratulations! I just completed this job a few weeks ago. I replaced both the upper and lower ball joints (plus axles) on both driver and passenger sides. I appreciate very much what you just accomplished.

For me, the first side, passenger, was a bunch of trial and error and running back and forth to my FLAPS to get the next tool. However, the second time, drivers side, was just one trip to FLAPS to get 4 tools and took about an hour of labor. And that was doing a few extra things for the sake of the axle replacement. The first side was such a PIA that I needed a break. I was very close to buying the tool you started with, but as you discovered unfortunately, you can do it by just borrowing pullers and presses from your FLAPS. It does work. And I was pleasantly surprised how easy and well it worked for the second side. I guess one does learn from experience.

[jjvincent]

The local shop by me had their mechanic die of cancer. SoIi have been helping the out on the side to fill in. They have what I call the "King Kong" of ball joint tools. In essence, a Snap On unit that has a bunch of adapters and a book to tell you what adapters to use per vehicle. It can get a Eurovan one out in a jiffy. If you want a real hard one, just try any full size pickup truck that is 10-15 years old that has existed here in the NE. It makes a Eurovan look like a breeze.

Also, soaking them in things like PB Blaster or whatever, is a waste of time. Like others said, a press works wonders. If you want a real challenge, try to change out a wheel bearing from a Subaru Outback (or similar) that has spent it's life in upstate NY.

[Alan Brase]

[Abscate]

The arbor plates are surprisingly expensive new, as much as theHf press.

I’ve picked them up,cheap at garage sales and at the scrap yard when I see a piece of metal I like


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[Alan Brase]

Probably should start a tools/ equipment thread. then show me pics sometime. I've got most press stuff to do 091 and 091/1 transaxles, some very old OTC wheel bearing stuff. would like to get more.
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Al Brase
Projects: 67 sunroof bug, 67 Porsche 912 Targa, 70 Westy
Dec 1955 Single Cab pickup WANT 15" BUS RIMS dated 8/55, thru 12/55
To New owners: 1969 doublecab, 1971 Dormobile
Vanagons:
80 P27 Westy JUL 1979, 3rd oldest known US
83 1.6TD Vanagon, 87 Wolfie Westy daily driver, swap meet home

[jjvincent]

[frenchroast]

[Saturn]

After getting the left side buttoned up on Friday, the right side was next. What had taken almost a week and a half to do on the drivers side of the EVC, the passenger side took about 5 1/2 hours yesterday. The part taking the most time to deal with was removing the brake pad pins on the brakes. As with the left side caliper, these did not want to be disturbed. Spent close to 90 minutes using a 3lbs hammer, punch, B'laster and Dremel tool to evict the pins. The get better access, unbolted the shock then removed the caliper bolts to rest the caliper on a jack stand to the side.

Undid the bolts on both ball joints and then popped the tie rod out. Went under the van to loosen the 27mm bolt securing the torsion bar/control arm. Using a pickle fork eventually separated the upper ball joint from the e-centric plate which I left secured on the knuckle. After about 2 dozen strikes with the 3lbs hammer, I upgraded to a sledge hammer and 4-5 hits later, a small "bang!" signaled the upper ball joint had been dislodged. Assembled the OTC tool and with two significant "bangs!" the upper ball joint tumbled to the floor. After cleaning the control arm opening pressed the new ball joint into position and installed the locking ring. Tightened the 24mm nut to complete the job.

Separated the lower ball joint utilizing the pickle fork, though didn't have to call up the sledge hammer on this one. Secured new lower ball joint into place first by the upper fasteners and then the 24mm nut on the bottom. The 24mm wrench continued its service to break the tie rod free from the retaining nut on the steering arm. Counted 17.5 rotations while removing the old one and counted the same number of turns while installing the new tie rod. Tightened the retaining nut and the main nut to the bottom of the steering arm. Swapped out the old brake rotor with a shiny new one. At that point it was time to call it for the day. The final to-do list is replacing the rubber brake hose, installing new hardware & pads on the caliper, bleed the fluid, reinstall the shock absorber and set the torsion bar nut.

.

[Stripped66]