Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts New!  See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
Dougs 56 build
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3 ... , 14, 15, 16  Next
Jump to:
Forum Index -> Beetle - Oval-Window - 1953-57 Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Volksvr6gti
Samba Member


Joined: July 22, 2019
Posts: 285
Location: Jacksonville
Volksvr6gti is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2021 5:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

Today was a good day, the beetle bug was picked up by the painter! And off she goes to see better days.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
57BLITZ
Samba Member


Joined: June 12, 2012
Posts: 2371
Location: DEEK - U.S.A.
57BLITZ is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2021 10:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

Hey Doug . . . Thank you for doing the review on your new fenders!
Looking forward to seeing what comes out of the paint shop . . . all the best with yer project!!!! Cool
_________________
Jesucristo es mi SeŮor y Salvador!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Volksvr6gti
Samba Member


Joined: July 22, 2019
Posts: 285
Location: Jacksonville
Volksvr6gti is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2021 5:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

Hey buddy no problem, I hope my review was good and helped you. I will def post progress piks as they are made Wink
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
tomsbuggered
Samba Member


Joined: October 16, 2014
Posts: 416
Location: Calgary, AB Canada
tomsbuggered is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2021 8:37 am    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

Exciting times Doug!
_________________
June 1956 VW Oval Beetle
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Volksvr6gti
Samba Member


Joined: July 22, 2019
Posts: 285
Location: Jacksonville
Volksvr6gti is offline 

PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2021 12:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

while the bug is off at the paint shop I decided to tear into the split case tranny. it looked as though the previous owner had already opened it up, to take a peek. The axle tubes had already been removed and most of the nuts and bolts were not too tight. Also when I opened it up, I noticed that the spider gears were just laying in there and not connected to their shaft... which was missing, so I will need to find a source for that part. two of the threaded lugs to hold the axle tubes to the tranny were missing, but the treads on the tranny itself were good and not stripped, so I will also need to find a source for 2 of those. you can see that in the pic below:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


few more pics of the outside of tranny:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Started with the removal of the gearshift housing and all looked well there. Shift lever is in good shape and not bent or broken:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


next I split the case open - don't forget the nut and bolt inside the bell housing ... lol that beat for a good 15 mins hahaha. It split open pretty easily, I used a wooden dowel rod and a mallet and some light taps.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Once inside I noticed the drive pinion had an issue as you can see here:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


One of the teeth is completely chipped off and missing.... im guessing this will lead me to having to source a new pinion shaft... if anyone has any info or sources for this it is appreciated in advance.

here is a pic of the rest of the shaft, I am no expert here, but I did not notice any other damage to it.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



here is some pics of the main drive shaft, same here, no expert, but noting is standing out to me.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


selector forks:



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


and reverse, which I didn't see any damage.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


so anyone with experience here, is this worth fixing, if so where can a locate a new shaft. Do I need to buy a complete ring and pinion set or can use the pinion be purchased.

Currently I have a rancho trans in the bug thats new. Am I better off just keeping the rancho in, or would it be better for me to restore this one?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
VW_Jimbo Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: May 22, 2016
Posts: 7431
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
VW_Jimbo is offline 

PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2021 10:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

Was there any oil in it still? How much metal flake was in it? Any in the transmission?

Everything looks good! The issue really is the bearings. Are they good? Also pay attention to the points on the gears, for wear. Usually caused by shifting over time. You know, death by a thousand shifts!

Man, from here, I would install new bearings, new gaskets. Check the end play and feel for any oddness in the shafts. If it all felt good, I would button it up and send it over to Jimbo in Huntington Beach! Thatís what I would do!

Looks good! Get it back together and go enjoy it!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!
nshaddox wrote:
Plus I tend to prefer these impossible projects that take way too much time. Thereís no thrill in easy projects. Challenges are fun.

67rustavenger wrote:
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! Smile
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Volksvr6gti
Samba Member


Joined: July 22, 2019
Posts: 285
Location: Jacksonville
Volksvr6gti is offline 

PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 5:02 am    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

Lol thatís a stellar plan Jimbo lol Smile
There was no gear oil in the tranny, it had previously been opened, so it was already drained and no signs of metal flakes. That pinion shaft though is a whole different story. I will need to try to find a way to buy a new one since that tooth is broke off. I am just not too sure where to find a new shaft from. Also if I buy a new pinion do I have to buy a new ring gear ? Also nothing else appears to be damaged in there, so I am almost wondering if the previous owner had the case opened and maybe that gear set rolled off a table and landed on that tooth and broke it off or something. I would just figure that big of a chunk of metal would have dented or tore up some other gears, but they all look nice.

Anyone with a good source of tranny knowledge can chime in. ....transmission knowledge that is lol
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
sunroof
Samba Member


Joined: October 06, 2006
Posts: 1336
Location: Winnipeg
sunroof is offline 

PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 6:30 am    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

Apart from the broken pinion gear the guts look excellent. First gear and the reverse idler gear really couldn't look better. You might want to measure second gear syncro, you can look up how to do that. I would personally suggest finding a different gear cluster depending on how much you enjoy chinese puzzles. If you haven't rebuilt a transmission before you might want to take it to a transmission shop. Good luck.

Don
_________________
Better and better mistakes!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
VW_Jimbo Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: May 22, 2016
Posts: 7431
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
VW_Jimbo is offline 

PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 8:39 am    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

If you can wait a little while.....I am already set up a transmission rebuild, for my split case, with Scott of MCM. He is a member on here and specializes in VW transmission rebuilds and high performance stuff. He helped me and taught me how to rebuild a later case transaxle, one on one, in his shop. He is a great guy and does stellar work!

I have been waiting for Covid to taper off before driving up to his shop to redo the split trans. Looking to find some time in January 2022. If I can make that happen, I may be able to get a ring and pinion for you, while there. PM me if you want to discuss more in depth. I know that is a ways off.
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!
nshaddox wrote:
Plus I tend to prefer these impossible projects that take way too much time. Thereís no thrill in easy projects. Challenges are fun.

67rustavenger wrote:
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! Smile
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Clatter
Samba Member


Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 5982
Location: Santa Cruz
Clatter is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2021 9:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

If you have the chance, iíd stop and visit the car at the body shop.
Because the bullets and headlight wire tubes and different things were to be aligned and welded up to place,
Your input might make the difference between your being happy with their locations,
Or not..

Most body shops arenít VW specialists.
_________________
Bus Motor Build

Whatís That Noise?!?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Clatter
Samba Member


Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 5982
Location: Santa Cruz
Clatter is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2021 9:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

Also interesting that you went full resto clear to the split case trans..!
Nice.
That means youíre getting a stock 36er as well?

Most might get a tunnel trans before a bigger motorÖ
_________________
Bus Motor Build

Whatís That Noise?!?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Volksvr6gti
Samba Member


Joined: July 22, 2019
Posts: 285
Location: Jacksonville
Volksvr6gti is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2021 10:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

Yeah I do need to stop by the shop sometime and check in on the bug. I did make a note to them when it got picked up that the headlight wiring tubes would need to get cut and welded to the correct and final location. The bullets I sent along with 2 pages (about 4-6 pictures each) of examples of how they should look when mounted. I made sure to provide some head on shots along with some from different angles.

As for the trans, I did break it all down, but that pinion that has a chipped tooth, I am having difficulty trying to locate a source for replacement. If anyone has anything or knows a source of replacement give me a heads up.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
scotty timmerman
Samba Member


Joined: January 10, 2010
Posts: 910
Location: gigharbor W.A
scotty timmerman is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2021 8:01 am    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

there are a few nos ones in the classifieds. Or post a wanted ad for a good used one or find a core for parts.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php...ds=pinion+
_________________
71 ghia coupe: Build thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=511738&highlight=
71 type 3 fastback auto
71 type 3 fastback manual
73 super beetle
57 oval: build thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8616563#8616563
63 beetle reassembly: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7458619#7458619
2332cc engine build: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8608429&highlight=#8608429
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Volksvr6gti
Samba Member


Joined: July 22, 2019
Posts: 285
Location: Jacksonville
Volksvr6gti is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2021 1:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

Thanks Scotty for that link. So this will be my first beetle tranny to rip down and rebuild; however, I am up to the task. So if I purchase this

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2360225

It should be a direct replacement of mine correct? It states it will fit a 56 bug, 7 teeth pinion and 31 tooth ring. So if I count the teeth on mine and it matches 7/31 then it should fit right in?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Volksvr6gti
Samba Member


Joined: July 22, 2019
Posts: 285
Location: Jacksonville
Volksvr6gti is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 1:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

weather in Florida has finally begun to cool back down to comfortable working conditions, thus I decided to start working on the motor. I went with restoring the 1776cc first and will shortly start working on the 36hp in the near future. The 1776 ran well for the couple minutes that I had it running when I first picked up the bug. I was originally planning to just change the push rod tube seals and the oil strainer gaskets along with the valve cover cork gaskets. But, I had an oil leak somewhere and wasn't quite to sure if it was coming from the case halves themselves or a bad gasket; so I just decided to tear it all down, clean everything up, document what parts where actually in this 1776 and reseal it. This post will be picture heavy and maybe help others that need a reference picture.

removal of the heads and carbon build up on piston heads. Does this build up look normal or does it indicate anything negative?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


inside of each cylinder looks good and still shows machining lines:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


cylinders removed along with pushrod tubes:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


just a pik of the case before tearing into it:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


heads showing carbon buildup. Again I am no motor head engine profession, but anything here look bad / abnormal? This is a fairly new (low milage) engine.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


and valve side:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I made a jig to assist in removal of flywheel as I did not have the tool yet to lock the flywheel.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


case being split open - used special tool to hold lifters in place so they would not fall once splitting the case and get out of order. you can also see that SCAT used a good amount of silicone engine sealant on their build. there was silicone on case halfs, gaskets, plugs, etc. I decided to clean and remove it all and to use a thin amount of permatex aircraft form-a-gasket instead. should make future cleanings much simpler. hopefully it will seal the case well and I will have no leaks .... we should find out shortly hahaha.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


crank and connecting rods were removed and I just wrote the numbers 1-4 on the journal and rods to keep each rod with its correct journal (just to let the newer VW guy know that these are not the actual VW cylinder numbers, it was just to help me keep things in order).

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


once I made it this far I realized that I was missing a critical part....a parts cleaner. so I made a quick run to harbor freight and snagged one. I filled it with 5 gallons of simple green cut with 5 gallons of water. This proved to work great on cleaning everything and was much more pleasant to work around for hours than harsher chemicals. everything was then sprayed with dawn/ water and rinsed and then immediately after I blew every part with compressed air, ran an heat gun lightly over to ensure things were dry and then lastly assembly lube on everything.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


here is a pik of a case half cleaned up. they came out superb (one cylinder stud was in tight on one of the case savers... so I worked around it.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Next I cleaned up the cylinder studs and put them in the case halves hand tight.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


lifters cleaned and installed in case:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


moved onto cleaning the crank:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I noticed the distributor drive gear had a little imperfection in it. I had chatted with a local air-cooled VW service location (Hilltop Motors) and they stated that it was still good and I could repair it by using a fine metal file and just giving the damaged area a very light buff and then tapering the sides ever so lightly. therefore, I did just that. here is the pik of the gear prior to fixing:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


and here is after. You can't even tell that it ever had an issue:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


after making this repair I cleaned the crank to rid it of any tiny metal shavings. I removed the connecting rods and inspected the journals - All looked well.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


main bearings as well as rod bearings had good grey look all the way through.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Bushings on connecting rods were great

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



I marked all the bearings to note their proper seated location in the case ensuring that there was no movement with the retaining dowel in place.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


rods were cleaned up and put back on the crank ensuring that assembly lube was used and proper torque spec of 50 ft/lbs (called SCAT to see what they recommended with 3/8 ARP bolts). also ensure they spun on the journals freely with no binding.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


dowels put in case and half bearing lubed.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


crank put back in case and ensured all lines that were on bearings were lined up and bearing were seated properly.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



next was onto the cam and cam bearings. All cam bearings looked fine and still had good grey on them. all were cleaned and oiled.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


cam and bearings put back into case and ensured timing marks on crank and cam lined up.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


new case stud gaskets installed and oiled.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


next I put permatex on the case half lightly.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


also DONT FORGET THE CAM PLUG!!!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


moved onto the other case half and oiled the lifters, installed the main bearing half, and cam bearings. also I ensured the oil pickup tube nut was secured.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Case halves joined and oil pump was cleaned up.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


gasket applied to case with permatex, oil pump and gears installed and second gasket applied. cover put on and torqued to 14 ft/lbs.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


large case studs were torqued to 18 ft/lbs. small nuts on perimeter of case were torqued to 14 ft/lbs.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Oil relief valve and oil pressure regulator were cleaned and installed with new gasket and installed hand tight.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


moving onto the oil cooler, I dissembled and cleaned. You can see that silicone sealant was used everywhere here as well. all was removed and new gaskets installed.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Oil cooler was flushed and 2 outer gaskets replaced and 2 inner gaskets replaced / Permatex added to both sides of all 4 rubber washers. Oil cooler nuts torqued to 5 ft/lbs

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Alternator stand permatexed and gaskets in place with baffle torqued to 14 ft/lbs.

pistons and cylinders were next on the blocked and cleaned up.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


pistons installed with arrows pointing to flywheel / retaining clips in place. Oil rings were offset at 10 and 2 o'clock, compression rings offset at 5 and 8 o'clock. Bases of cylinders had permatex applied.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


tin on the bottom of cylinders were polished:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Pushrod tubes were stretched on both ends and seals applied. (rubberized gloves work great for this.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Found out do not stretch NEW tubes otherwise the head bolts will not reach and you cannot connect the nuts. Therefore, I had to compress the tubes back to original size. I had a large clamp that I used for this and it worked great.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Before applying the heads I cleaned them up as well and removed the soot on valves. you can also see that silicone was used on these as well.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Heads were installed and 4 nuts on the inside cover portion were tightened first to bring head into alignment with cylinder. Then the 4 outer nuts last. All 8 were hand tightened to 7 ft/lbs. then to 15 ft/lbs in accordance to the order in the Bentley manual. Then they were torqued to 18 ft/lbs in accordance to order in Bentley. I had done one of the bolts to 23 ft/lbs originally as I thought that was the correct torque spec, but later found out after snapping the head bolt that 23 ft/lbs was for 10 mm studs and I have 8 mm studs that are rated for 18 ft/lbs. I purchased a new head bolt kit and put in the new one.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Next the crank pulley was cleaned and polished and torqued to 32 ft/lbs. New exhaust gaskets applied to case.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


distributor drive shaft was cleaned and installed - 2 spacers were placed in case.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


rockers were next. They were dissembled and cleaned and oiled. Also I had noticed that the mounting blocks on them were installed upside down. Upon reassembling them I put them on the rocker shaft so when mounted to the heads the end with the slot faced UP instead of down like they previously were.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


New O-rings were installed on heads, the two bolts on the ends of the rockers were torqued to 18 ft/lbs. The two nuts that secure the rockers to the heads were torqued to 18ft/lbs. I then turned the engine over 2 times and rechecked the torque settings. The valves were then adjusted and set to .006 (EDIT - I emailed Scat and Eddie stated that the valves on their builds should be set at .002 so I went back and made that correction and they are now set to .002)

Next was valve cover tins. The cork gaskets were siliconed here as well. I used a heat gun to loosen it and then scraped it off. The tins were polished, new cork gaskets installed and prior to putting them in I used a very light amount of wheel bearing grease on the cork seals. I put it on very sparingly and this should make the next gasket change much more simpler.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Fuel pump packed with wheel bearing grease put in fuel pump. 2 gaskets installed with the fuel pump stand and pin put in place and nuts tightened hand tight.

The manifold I noticed did not have the preheating tubes installed. I did look though my parts that the previous owner had given me and found the 2 tubes. I first fitted them to the motor with the exhaust installed to get everything lined up properly. Next I sanded down the area of the tubes that would be inserted into the intake manifold. I then Applied some JB metallic paste used for exhaust to seal it to the manifold.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I then fit it in place and started mounting the fan shroud and other engine tins.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The foam seals on the doghouse tins were falling apart so I removed it and applied weather striping.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Motor is completed. I have a few minor things to fix with the tin that goes in front of the crank pulley. I does not have the provisions cut in it for the addition of the pre heat tubes that I added to the intake manifold. I will mark and cut them this weekend and then get it settled into its final resting position.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Next will be the 36 hp motor rebuild.


Last edited by Volksvr6gti on Mon Nov 08, 2021 4:23 pm; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
VW_Jimbo Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: May 22, 2016
Posts: 7431
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
VW_Jimbo is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 4:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

Hey Doug! Nice to see you back at it!

By chance, did you keep the lifters with the camshaft, in order. They need to go back into their individual spots. They have already mated together from it being run before you disassembled it. They do not play nice if you go switching the spots up. Just a heads up.

Also, I cannot see it clearly enough. But, did the crank pulley have a spiraled groove cut in the snout outside area of the pulley. If it is smooth, that may be your leak! Again, I was unable to tell from your photos.

Keep on going! Looking good!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!
nshaddox wrote:
Plus I tend to prefer these impossible projects that take way too much time. Thereís no thrill in easy projects. Challenges are fun.

67rustavenger wrote:
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! Smile
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Volksvr6gti
Samba Member


Joined: July 22, 2019
Posts: 285
Location: Jacksonville
Volksvr6gti is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

hey Jimbo, yep I was sure to keep every part, connecting rods, bearings, pistons, lifters, push rods all in their respective original place. I made sure to make a numbering system and wrote on the parts with a sharpie to keep their order. I cleaned the sharpie off while reassembling. the motor was originally purchased in 2008 by the previous owner. he claimed 1200 miles on it. to me everything looked pretty good, nothing excessively worn. the leak could have honestly just been from the oil drain area. most of the oil was just on the bottom of the case. However, I figured I would spend the time to tear it all down, clean, make note of each part that was used in this motor for future reference, and then just seal and replace every gasket prior to getting the whole care built. Figured it would be best to do that now vs later when the motors are in the bug. I do plan to run the 36hp, but I may ride the 1776 for a while just for fun. I still have to figure out the ring and pinion situation on the original tranny (if you recall the pinion was broken). I really have not spent the time researching the transmission stuff, however, I feel like I read somewhere that the 36hp motor and freeway flyer transmissions (mine is a rancho pro street with a 3:88 ring and pinion) don't really play well for some reason... I could be wrong with this info, but just feel like I read that somewhere. if I am wrong about this and the 36 will work well with this rancho tranny, then maybe when I restore the 36hp I will just get it converted over to 12 volt, and mate it up and rock the new trans with the 36. if any trans gurus have info on this and can grace me with their knowledge that would be appreciated.

Edit to above post: I just located where I read the info about the 3.88 trans and 36hp motor. It was on the socalauto parts website:
ď The Freeway Flyer May Not Be Your Best Choice:
If youíre a stock motor enthusiast that is happily running the 1200cc, 1300cc, 1500cc and 1600cc engines, sorry but the Freeway Flyer trans is going to do your ride more harm than good. A stock 1600cc makes about 53HP and simply does not provide the grunt needed to make the tall gear ratio a practical solution. If youíre running a stock motor and have no plan to upgrade but still would like more MPH you may consider going with a taller rear tire. A taller rear tire will provide more rollout potentially increasing MPH over a shorter tire at the same RPM.Ē
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
VW_Jimbo Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: May 22, 2016
Posts: 7431
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
VW_Jimbo is offline 

PostPosted: Sat Oct 23, 2021 9:03 am    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

Good! Glad you kept them
In their respective places. Seen several camshafts get completely worn down from not having their mated lifter on the correct lobe. Kills an engine in the first several hundred miles!

Yep! I am not a fan of that setup with a 1600. Itís just creates a GIANT bogging lagging zone in the shift between 3rd to 4th. If you just keep the stock Bug gears, not using the Bus 4th, you would have a transmission that could take you up to 80 with a 1600 no problem. You could even get to 90 going downhill and maybe 93 if you had a tail wind!

Now, if you where going to build a larger engine than go for it! That is the combo I have for 4th in my Bug. The transmission is coupled with a 2127 and makes for a great ride. At 95-97 the front end starts to get really light. Feels like lift off. 99-104ish is a ass puckering that cannot be explained. I will not go any faster. I am not even sure that I can, because I am scared to death to look at the gauges while flying down the road!

Good luck!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!
nshaddox wrote:
Plus I tend to prefer these impossible projects that take way too much time. Thereís no thrill in easy projects. Challenges are fun.

67rustavenger wrote:
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! Smile
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Dan22
Samba Member


Joined: August 30, 2019
Posts: 198
Location: Battle Ground, WA
Dan22 is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Oct 28, 2021 4:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

Hey Doug,
Any good progress to report on your paint work?
_________________
1-0900722
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Volksvr6gti
Samba Member


Joined: July 22, 2019
Posts: 285
Location: Jacksonville
Volksvr6gti is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Oct 28, 2021 9:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Dougs 56 build Reply with quote

Unfortunately noÖ the painter ended up being backed up and mine got pushed back quite a bit. I started putting the bug back in his ear and I am meeting with him tomorrow I believe to go back over the car and they are about to start the process. The bug has been blasted and moved into the shop though, so thatís great news. Hopefully about a month now and will be done. I will post updates once I know for sure. Thanks for checking in Smile
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Beetle - Oval-Window - 1953-57 All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: Previous  1, 2, 3 ... , 14, 15, 16  Next
Jump to:
Page 15 of 16

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2020, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB