1.6 td CY-JX timing belt snapped. Questions/advice Syncro DOKA

[valvecovergasket]

[?Waldo?]

Dude, stop! I just threw up in my mouth!

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[damagd]

[damagd]

Got the head pulled.

[Jeffrey Lee]

So, will I need to cut any holes in my engine lid to fit that in my Vanagon?


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[?Waldo?]

[old_man]

[?Waldo?]

Thanks for the pic! Very cool engine. I know there are ways it can be done but the added complication is just worse than a timing belt, IMO.

[damagd]

So it's pretty easy to see that the head is cracked the whole way to the c-cup. Guess I'll be looking for a new head. I'm not even positive that this is the correct head for a turbo engine. The engine came from Europe and has a CY engine code. Not JX. Might have come out of an 81/82 Rabbit or Jetta. The head has 068 103 373 D stamped on it. The machine shop has a completely rebuilt head but it is stamped 068 103 373 witn no "D" or any other letters. My local VW garage has two heads laying around. One is stamped with the "D" like mine and the other is the same numbers but Stamped with a "T". Visually I can see that the one at the machine shop without a letter does not have an extra (oil?) chamber protruding next to one of the injectors. I'm understanding that heads with that bump out have hydraulic lifters. Also, I understand that some differences may be in the head bolt that it uses. I know that a turbo diesel head uses special valves filled with something. Not sure how to proceed. Can I mix and match anything?

[?Waldo?]

Hydro lifter head will not work on a solid lifter block.

There are better exhaust valves now than the sodium filled originals. I already posted part numbers above.

Considering your oil usage, you're also going to be into it at least for rings and very likely new pistons and having the block bored oversize. The cost if you do it right yourself will likely be over $1500 in parts and machine work. The labor is also significant. I'd probably fix that engine if it was in a rabbit/golf/jetta, but there are better options for a Vanagon, IMO, thus my first post in this thread.

[old_man]

If you're in a bind I think I still have a used JX head. Shipping would probably be murder though.

[damagd]

[damagd]

Depending how much my mechanic wants for the used head that he has with 150k miles on it and considering that I will probably have to take it to the machine shop to at least get checked out and maybe worked on, this might be a better option for $625 + tax. https://www.ebay.com/itm/114461605173

The used one that he has does look like it is in pretty decent shape. Doesn't even have any cracks between any of the valves.

[ndorian]

The oil leak could be from the oil pan gasket. I have a 1.6 and after I changed mine I have not leaked a drop.

[Jeffrey Lee]

If replacing the oil pan gasket, I highly recommend upgrading to the baffle/windage tray type with integrated gasket.

Besides the obvious advantage of preventing aeration of the sump oil, the thick rubber gasket provides a significantly better seal against the block than the fiber or cork gaskets.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9455531
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[damagd]

So the head that my local VW mechanic has with the "068 103 373 D", same as mine, came out of an 85 Golf without a turbo. So the only thing that could be different I guess is that the one from the 85 Golf might not have sodium filled valves. But I wonder if mine even has sodium filled valves? Same head number, but mine came from Europe. The head that my mechanic has came from a solid running engine. The body was totaled. So it wouldn't need any machine work except for a resurfacing and replacing the seals. He wants $200 for it. So my question is, is there any chance that it does have sodium filled valves, and if not, would it be ok to use it with the turbo? My mechanic says that the valve could burn up sooner, but seems to think that it would be ok to run it without the sodium valves. Looks like I can get a Reman turbo head from Parts Place for $550, and after purchasing the old head and resurfacing, I would be into it for about $300. I would rather spend less now to get it running since I plan on replacing the engine within a couple of years if you guys think it's ok to run it without sodium filled valves.

[?Waldo?]

IMO the IDI diesel heads should not be resurfaced with a typical milling operation. It loosens the pre-combustion chamber inserts which can then cause catastrophic issues later on. I have had excellent results using flat polished granite and 120 grit sandpaper to hand-lap the head gasket surface which does not place the same stress on the pre-chamber inserts.

IMO, tiny cracks in the pre-chamber inserts are more of an issue than the small cracks between the valves. You often cannot see the cracks until you polish the insert to a shine.

Although the head casting number/suffix can be helpful, VW was decidedly inconsistent. I have seen the same suffix used on both solid lifter and hydraulic lifter heads and they are not at all interchangeable!

You can tell if a VW 1.6 head was originally TD spec by the diameter of the face of the pre-combustion chamber inserts. The non-turbo heads had 32mm pre-combustion chamber inserts. The TD heads had 30mm inserts.

Replacement valves have not been sodium filled for quite some time. The later VW turbo-diesels/TDI engines do not use sodium filled valves. I don't think that is of particular concern.

[damagd]

Question about this plate that is attached to the injection pump behind the sprocket. Is it supposed to attach to the block through that bottom hole? Or maybe somewhere else? It doesn't look like there was ever a bolt there, but it could have disappeared a long time ago and grease/dirt could have covered any evidence of it's previous existence. My entire injection pump is loose. And I mean totally free. There is nothing holding it down. Looks like two bolts came out of the bracket under the injection pump. Too hard to get a picture of, but I was having a difficult time getting the whole thing pulled forward enough to get the holes to totally line up. The black plate circled wasn't allowing it. Another bolt that came out, I circled, attaches the injection pump bracket to the alternator bracket. That one I can just barely get lined up enough to get a bolt through. I got a used head all ready to go, but I want to get this thing secured first.

[?Waldo?]

Yes, the plate should mount to the block with several M8 (13mm head) fasteners. Considering they are all gone might explain what broke the timing belt. Likely one of them came loose and fell into the belt, jammed between belt and one of the sprockets, and snapped the belt. I would use blue loctite on the new bolts. Be aware that the position of that plate affects timing belt tracking and there is enough slop in the holes to make a big difference in the tracking. There are also bolts behind the injection pump that mount a second part of the pump bracket to the side of the block. If the pump is loose, then those are likely gone also. As a workflow, after getting the head on, I would recommend focusing on doing the items necessary to check tracking before items that are not needed for checking tracking because in order to adjust the tracking, it is likely that you will need to remove the injection pump. It sometimes needs to be removed more than once.