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waller
Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2006
Posts: 332
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 Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2022 1:49 pm Post subject: Fuel delivery issue |
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Hi all
I have a 78 FI Beetle that I drive daily. Today I was driving down a residential street and it just shut down. All 3 red lights came on and the car just died.
It wouldn't turn over for 4-5 tries, which had me a bit worried. I'm sure it's a fuel issue (my pump is at the front passenger side).
On try 6 it just seemed to grab some fuel, we started up and off we went! Now, it starts up fine as if it didn't happen!
My wife won't drive it for fear of this happening to her (same thing happened once earlier this year), so what should look for to solve this odd problem? |
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Starbucket
Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2007
Posts: 4028
Location: WA
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| Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2022 3:20 pm Post subject: Re: Fuel delivery issue |
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| Is it cranking when you try to start it? When was the last time you cleaned the fuel filter? If there is rust in the tank it could be blocking the fuel outlet to the motor. Does the electric fuel pump sound the same when this is happening? Lastly the electrical part of the ign. switch could be failing if when you say it wouldn't turn over for 4-5 tries. |
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waller
Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2006
Posts: 332
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| Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2022 6:09 pm Post subject: Re: Fuel delivery issue |
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| Starbucket wrote: |
| Is it cranking when you try to start it? When was the last time you cleaned the fuel filter? If there is rust in the tank it could be blocking the fuel outlet to the motor. Does the electric fuel pump sound the same when this is happening? Lastly the electrical part of the ign. switch could be failing if when you say it wouldn't turn over for 4-5 tries. |
It was definitely cranking, just not turning over. I replaced the filter last year and I'm wondering if there is a blockage or kink in the line between the pump and filter.
It happened again tonight, I pulled over and was parked on an incline. 4-5 times it just kept cranking without anything. Let it roll back a tiny bit, popped the clutch and it fired right back up!
One q: how do I deal with rust in the gas tank?
Will report back! |
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Starbucket
Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2007
Posts: 4028
Location: WA
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| Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2022 6:21 pm Post subject: Re: Fuel delivery issue |
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Sounds like the ign. switch. To test run a jumper from the battery + to #15 on the coil (or a jumper from the license plate light so you can power it on with your parking lights), remember you start it with the key but the jumper needs to be disconnected to turn it off. It's the starter portion of the switch that finally gives up the ghost after 40 years or so.
Rust in the tank can be seen by removing the sender (mark the orientation to put it back in correctly) and use a flashlight to inspect. Remove the tank and flush it out. |
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waller
Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2006
Posts: 332
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| Posted: Sat Jun 25, 2022 7:20 am Post subject: Re: Fuel delivery issue |
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| Starbucket wrote: |
| Sounds like the ign. switch. To test run a jumper from the battery + to #15 on the coil (or a jumper from the license plate light so you can power it on with your parking lights), remember you start it with the key but the jumper needs to be disconnected to turn it off. It's the starter portion of the switch that finally gives up the ghost after 40 years or so. |
Sorry, could you explain this a little more for the novices in the back 
Jumper on the batt + and coil #15 with the car cold and key out or key in? What am looking for to confirm the ignition switch is good? I replaced the ignition switch last year so I'm wondering if the new one is a dud |
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Starbucket
Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2007
Posts: 4028
Location: WA
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| Posted: Sat Jun 25, 2022 9:57 am Post subject: Re: Fuel delivery issue |
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| waller wrote: |
| Starbucket wrote: |
| Sounds like the ign. switch. To test run a jumper from the battery + to #15 on the coil (or a jumper from the license plate light so you can power it on with your parking lights), remember you start it with the key but the jumper needs to be disconnected to turn it off. It's the starter portion of the switch that finally gives up the ghost after 40 years or so. |
Sorry, could you explain this a little more for the novices in the back
Jumper on the batt + and coil #15 with the car cold and key out or key in? What am looking for to confirm the ignition switch is good? I replaced the ignition switch last year so I'm wondering if the new one is a dud
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What happens is when you go to start the car you turn the key to on which powers #15, then to start, when in the start position the starter turns but the power to #15 is dead (no volts or low volts) and the car fails to start (bad contact in start position) so to test for this you provide power to #15 and use the key to start the car, if it starts and runs you found the problem. Keep the jumper with you if it fails to start when you are out and about. The after market switches are crap compared to OEM (smaller contacts). |
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