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Rome Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2004 Posts: 10577 Location: Pearl River, NY
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Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2022 7:55 am Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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getting the seatbelts out. All the bolts came out super easily. I marked the seatbelt locations with tape and taped the hardware to each corresponding belt. |
Good. The belt bolts have a specific installation sequence with a rigid washer, and a plastic one which allows the mount to swivel. Years down the road when you are ready to reassemble, your taped fastener sequence will save you time.
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Off came the fenders. These two are significantly more rusted than the front two, and I'm not sure what my best course of action is here. |
Your rear fenders could very well be the factory originals. Best to keep them and fix the rust along the front bottom ends (naval jelly, Evapo-Rust, white vinegar, Ospho, etc.). Notice how both taillamps are (nearly*) at the same height, and not too low? How the bottom rear tips of the fenders match the bottom edge of the rear apron? Most aftermarket fenders deviate from these clues, with the taillamp holes being a few inches farther down; and that the rear tips are a finger-width longer at the end by the apron.
* Your left taillamp looks to be slightly lower down the fender than the right one. Like maybe 1/2" at most. You can use the outward kink of the fenders' inner edges as a horizontal line, then notice that the small hole in the fender for the lower taillamp mount is slightly below that imaginary line than the right taillamp's lower hole. Here's an official corporate press photo of a '67. The green horizontal line based at the outward kinks is what I described above and would pertain to your '70 to determine the height difference of your taillamps.
If you decide to change/equalise the height of the taillamp mounting holes, I'd use the right fender as the correct one because it has the same light yellow as the rest of the body, whereby the left fender is not that color.
The rear apron? Looks saveable by un-denting on the left, and careful bending of the bottom curve/channel at the lower right.
Not yet mentioned: Your wheels were originally all silver from the factory- '70 was the first year for this. IMO Beetles look best with the factory wheel paint scheme, not painted white, black or body color.
Have you practiced welding some more? |
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2022 6:18 pm Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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Rome, those are all great observations. Thanks for pointing them out; I learned a lot in one post!
I also like the factory wheels. I'm planning on either re-painting them silver or chroming them.
I've been practicing a little, but not a ton. The local community college is offering a welding class on Saturdays, but unfortunately I can't make it due to my work schedule. |
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2022 7:05 am Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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I started some work on the front frame head. The driver's side, as you can see, is nearly completely rusted through.
I drilled out the spot welds and cleaned up the metal that I could.
I'll cut out the bottom portion, and probably half way into the body mount holes. I want to leave as much of the metal as I can to serve as a guide for the patch to avoid alignment issues. I'll also coat the inside of the Napoleon hat with rust converter and interior frame coating while this portion is taken apart. |
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2022 12:43 pm Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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I cleaned up the floor pan shelf around the tunnel and frame head. While tapping around the body mounts on the passenger's side, I ended up with a large pile of rust underneath the mounts. They aren't quite as bad as the driver's side, but still need patched or replaced. Now I just wait for the funds for new pants and heater channels!
I've blown out the majority of the rust from the frame head, and it still looks structurally sound. I'll convert the rust and then put some of Eastwood's internal frame coating down the length of the tunnel.
I also cut out a couple of rusted through panels on the body. I followed VWJimbo's advice from other threads and cut out panels with radius'd corners.
I also started cleaning some of the misc. nuts, bolts, and washers that I've had bagged and tagged for a while. I've been using Evapo-Rust with pretty good success. After that, I wash them with water, dry them off, and put them in a 5lb Harbor Freight tumbler with fine walnut shells. Here are the end results:
Again, I can't thank you all enough for all of the feedback, as well as knowledge elsewhere on the forum. It is indeed priceless! |
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Zezdy Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2021 Posts: 27 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2022 11:59 am Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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Cleaned up some of the paint and undercoat around the spot welds of the heater channels.
I also peeled the seam sealer on the rear half of the heater channels.
I measured my door gaps, which are 36 1/2 inches at the narrowest points on both sides. I took three measurements on each door; bottom, middle, and where the metal starts to bend for the window.
I'm also in the process of making a jig out of some scrap lumber lying around. The theory is that it marks the frame mount bolts that are rotted. |
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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician

Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 3344 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2022 12:45 am Post subject: Re: Zezdy's 1970 VW Build |
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Zezdy wrote: |
...rear floor pan was "patched" by a previous owner. Even the rudimentary repair was completely rusted through...On the plus side, I found $0.32 and an earing!. |
Lol. I like your positive outlook! Keep going. _________________ Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help. |
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