Removing Front Torsion Bars - HELP

[DiscoDean]

This might sound stupid??? Okay even to me it does but - I can't find any way (new to buses) to take off the Torsion Arm from the Torsion Bar (Top one)... The bottom one was a snap as the arm swung down with the spring tension until it was unloaded and - loosen the set/pin and slide it off. The top Arm is resting (loaded with spring tension) on the rubber stop. I cannot find anywhere to either leverage the spring tension manually to loosen the spring so that I can get the set/pin out and slide the upper torsion arm off. I am replacing ball joints and cleaning things up. My bentley manual says nothing about unloading the spring tension - just to loosen the set/pin and slide it off. I am afraid that if I loosen the pin then BAM the spring will spin and I will never get it back on or scour the tapered pin recess. I know this has to be simple but I can't find it anywhere... thanks in advance.

Dean

[germansupplyscott]

use a jack or large prybar to raise the arm. be safe, there is a lot of force stored by the arm. remove the rubber stop. lower the arm. remove the set screw. the torsion springs will not move when you remove the set screw because they are locked in a cutout insde the torsion arm, they cannot turn, even with the set screw removed. now raise the arm with a large pry bar against the stop and with a sledge, lightly drift the arm outwards off the torsion springs. i use a large copper sledge for this job, to prevent damage to the arm. once it is past the stop, it will just slide right off like the lower arm did. this can be a job best done with a helper, one person to work the prybar, one to drift out the arm. don't hit it too hard, it is possible to bend the arms, especially if you hit far away from the pivot part of the arm.
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SL

[DiscoDean]

Thanks - I suppose that the process for putting them back on is the same? I position the arm as close to the angle of the spring to sit in the arm recess/cut out and gently tap the arm on the spring - then when on pry the arm up to insert the rubber stop?

Thanks,

Dean

[harpua]

scott's description of removal worked for me. Getting them back on was a bit trickier. Remove the dust cap and it will allow you to see the torsion spring and make sure each plate remains aligned and fits cleanly back into the matching female portion of the torsion arm. You need to really pay attention when you pound them back on. There is a different feel and sound when the arm is not quite lined up and is not going to go anywhere, vs. when it's all lined up. Even lined up it won't just slip on but each tap will sound solid and get you some progress.

[DiscoDean]

Thaks, Sounds like just a little tenderness... kind of thing.

Another question - the cam adjust on the top ball joint - is that a tapered sleeve that fits over the ball joint taper? As the ball joints that I bought do not have the adjust on them - so will I have to remove the adjusting sleeve from the old ball joint? I have a puller so no problem - just wondering if I didn't need to get a top AND bottom ball joint.

Dean

[mad.macs]

I just took off an upper arm. I had pulled a real rookie move and got the arm all the way back on and realized I had forgot to slip the new gasket on the arm first.

I tried jacking it and whacking it a hammer, but it didn't budge.

With just a little bit of jack holding the arm off the tube. I found I could get a large screwdriver (I mean prybar ) into the hole where the upper bumpstop goes and pried it off that way. It came easily, with no hammering.
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'84 Rivi Vanagon Auto Trans, Stock WBX

[SGKent]

Dean - post your location into your signature line. Usually City and State etc as there is always a remote chance someone here who has done that job before may live near you and offer to help. The first time doing torsion arms is a pain but it gets easier. I use a block of wood between the hammer and arm so not to beat it to death. When you get the arms off, you can pull the center grub screws and slide the torsion leaves out onto some newspapers as they will be greasy. Check for any broken leaves. Then take a rubber spatula and glue it or wire it to a yard stick. You can use the spatula to get the old grease and sometimes rust out of the torsion tube. I then pull rags on a string back and forth until clean. Clean up the torsion leaves of any flakes of rust, if any, and slide them back in. You can tape them together and mark sides up, down etc so you can put them back the same. Then when you regrease the arms, it will be all new grease. Good Luck. WATCH you fingers when you are working to remove or put back the rubber stops. Those arms would smash your hands if they slipped off the jack. ALso watch the bus, it will try to lift and or topple if you raise the jack too far.
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Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand).

George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"

1971 deluxe (sold)
1977 deluxe

[Desertbusman]

3-1/2 years ago and Dean looks to be long gone.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[SGKent]

[RASTAVAN]

any picts of this process??

[Desertbusman]

Pics? yes, in your service manual.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[shiningstar76]

[busdaddy]

[Desertbusman]

[shiningstar76]

[fungi]

Can anyone explain how to determine if there is to much play in the torsion arm housing where the needle bearings and the bushing reside? Also if the components are in good condition?
I have the front end apart. I don't want to remove the needle bearing or the bushing, but I want to make sure these components are in good condition.

[RockyGun]

[fungi]

Best answer I have received is; if the needle bearings and the torsion arms are well greased everything is ok. If they are dry. Bearings probably need replaced. As far as play I can't find any info yet.
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http://rivieraresto.blogspot.com/

[RockyGun]

[Desertbusman]