Automatic transmission atf leak

[reluctantartist]

I had my local mechanic replace the seals on the autmatic transmission. I finally got around to adding the oil and atf to it and noticed the atf is leaking from around the pan. I checked the bolts and they are all torques to 7 ft lbs. Do I need to dran it and remove the pan to check and correct any distortion that may be in the pan? Any tips or ideas?

Thanks
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1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them.

[raygreenwood]

This is really common. because the gasket is cork, over time it takes a set. You can tighten the bolts just lightly over time to maintain set torque, but eventually the gasket distorts in spots and leaks. Usually by that time its time to replace it and clean the filter anyway.

back in the day when I had an auto....I think Felpro made a kit that had a more solid modern gasket that did not deflect so much or take a compression set. Ray

[reluctantartist]

It had been sitting for about 5 months empty so I take it that it "set" and I need to get a new one...grr I just filled it with new ATF. Another question, if it had the seals replaced, and was not filled, it should take 6 ~qts ATF but I can not get near that much in it. Is there a way you are supposed to fill these things up when they are empty?
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1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them.

[raygreenwood]

A substantial amount of the fluid in these units is inside the torque converter and valve body. Unless its started and run to get the pump turning you won't get all of the fluid dispersed.

So...it was rebuilt or resealed then sat for 5 months before using it at all...or did you drive it for a while before letting it sit?
If gthis is tghe first time it has run since re seal then its szimply as you originally thought....that either tghe gasket was overtightened...which can happen to the most experienced person...or under tightened....or that the pan flange is distorted...also common.

So if you are going to reseal and put on a new gasket you can check the pan for flatness...but this works much better if you put a thin coat of oily area RTV on the pan side only. I think permatex copper is best for this. Then bolt the pan on just finger tight. Let it sit overnight.
The object is not gto crush the gasket or squeeze the rtv. Its tobring the gasket into full contact and level it to both surfaces. Let it cure....remove the pan, oil the gasket face betwwen transmission and gsket, remove any dried RTV that could get into the system on the inside....then install and torque carefully.
Personally I change to schnoor type ribbed lock washers. They take less torque to get to operate thatn a standard split lock washer. Wavy washers are next best.
You can get a bag of 100 of eithe at McMaster carr for about $15.
If you have an inch pound torque wrench great...if not torque these bolts with a 1/4" ratchet just holding it around the ratchet head. Ray

[reluctantartist]

I let it sit for 5 months before filling it after it was resealed. I will have to wait until I get it back in the car to change the pan gasket. The only gasket I can find are cork gaskets, are there any available with a better material? Otherwise I will do the permatex and cork route.
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1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them.

[raygreenwood]

Check to see if FelPro makes a gasket kit still. Ray

[reluctantartist]

I am not sure who makes them but I did find rubber gaskets at Napa. Hopefully this will fix the problem.
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1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them.