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How to bleed / test your Vanagon coolant system-$2 solution.
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denwood
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:17 pm    Post subject: How to bleed / test your Vanagon coolant system-$2 solution. Reply with quote

Here is an overview of a very simple way to bleed air from the vanagon rad that does not require a bong, raising your van front or running the van. I still fill the system and run the van to warm it up a bit. This method also tests the entire system for leaks, and will provide a pressure test for your rad cap as well. Hope you find it useful. (this post was my first done entirely from an iphone: onboard camera for pics, Phonto app for adding text, then uploaded from the phone to Samba gallery..cool!)
Cheers, Dennis.

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Edit/Note: The system pressure is rated at 15 psi; exceeding 15 psi during a pressure test should only be done if, like me, you're looking to stress the system a bit.
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Last edited by denwood on Sat Oct 12, 2013 7:52 pm; edited 4 times in total
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bluebus86
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice idea, however I'd be more comfortable with a pressure lower than 20 psi, a pressure exceeds the pressure cap pressure and could cause a rupture on some cooling component. but then again if it survives 20 spi, the system really is up to snuff!
The pressure gage shown is not really accurate at 20 psi, since your at the bottom 1/8th of the gages range. Ideally you should be using a lower pressure gage for best accuracy, a 40 psi max gauge would be a better choice if your targeting for 20 psi.

most gages have the best accuracy at mid range.

I like the idea, but suggest a gage better suited for low pressure. very nice however.
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been doing that with my motive brake bleeder as the pressure vessel and gauge for a while now and it works nicely. 1 fitting and a length of hose that I had laying around and it was done.
Even bleeding the entire system with a new radiator becomes a simple task. I don't pressurize the system quite as high as you though.
Nice right up.
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denwood
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

20 psi is only 5 over the cap spec...so yep, if it blows up at 20, better in your garage than on the road Smile
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denwood
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue, I actually set pressure using my regulator (fancy pants dual compressor system), the small one pictured is just there for illustrative purposes. I use it when painting to evaluate pressure drop on the line.
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noganav
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went even simpler. I installed a tire valve in the cap of the coolant overflow reservoir and use a bike pump with pressure indicator. Same idea, and it works great!
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jimeg
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And by running the van, the thermostat is open? Would this system work if the thermostat was closed?
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Last edited by jimeg on Sat Oct 12, 2013 9:30 pm; edited 1 time in total
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denwood
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nog, that's a good idea Smile

Jimeg, I've always filled the system, then started the van (cap off) to allow the water pump to circulate the coolant. I've never worried about getting the engine hot, so likely the thermostat is not open. It would make sense to warm the engine given a WBX...keep in mind my setup is an i4.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

denwood wrote:
Nog, that's a good idea Smile

Jimeg, I've always filled the system, then started the van (cap off) to allow the water pump to circulate the coolant. I've never worried about getting the engine hot, so likely the thermostat is not open. It would make sense to warm the engine given a WBX...keep in mind my setup is an i4.


Ok. Mine would apply to an I4 diesel, so fairly similar cooling components, yes?
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denwood
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, same. It's not a bad idea after your first hard drive to idle the van with hot coolant and check for air at the rad..any there will "burp" under pressure.
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Merian
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is a KEP bleed valve?
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denwood
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kennedy engineering ( http://www.kennedyenginc.com ) supplies these, or you can make your own. They make bleeding very easy Smile. Google "radiator petcock". Instead of risking stripping the bolt threads, you just turn the handle, bleed and close. I purchased this at the same time as the adapter plate for my 50 degree i4 conversion.

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I should mention that if you don't have an air compressor, just use a Schrader valve in place of the air fitting clamped to the 5/16" hose. A bike pump then is all that is needed to both pressure test and bleed. Nog evidently just installed this by drilling a hole, installed right into his expansion tank and left it there.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Sway-A-Way-Shock-Schrader-Valves-p-16945.html

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I drilled a hole in a spare cap for the overflow tank and installed a schrader tire valve to it. I just throw on the modified cap when I need to bleed the coolant.

In effect we're doing exactly the same thing, and mine also cost about $2 Laughing
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luVWagn
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i smell a business opportunity of modified tire-valve caps, sold with pressure gauge as a set, for $20 or something.

For all us mechanically declined folks Very Happy
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noganav
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're right! I shouldn't have told and turned a quick buck. The Prospect IL business model. Laughing
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seventyfo
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been bleeding with a $10 ACE 1 gallon garden sprayer minus the sprayer. Fill with coolant, attach to overflow port on the cap, open bleeder on radiator. A few pumps on the handle and it's all over in a couple minutes. Usually I use an old cap though.
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seventyfo
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It works good on brakes and clutch too.
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thatvwbusguy
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used Schrader valves on all sorts of projects over the years. I usually use the type made for tubeless tires when installing them in a plastic tank of any sort. This helps to make a better and longer lasting seal, since the threads on a standard screw in valve won't have much to bite onto:

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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

noganav wrote:
You're right! I shouldn't have told and turned a quick buck. The Prospect IL business model. Laughing


I don't know where this is--can you give me a hint? Shocked
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denwood
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jay, that valve looks perfect for a sacrificial cap install.

It won't be the 2$ solution as a retail product Smile. That said, a cap/valve combination used for bleeding is something vendors would likely sell. Anyone with an air compressor likely already has the bits in hand to do the air/fitting hose setup.

Using 20 psi accomplishes 3 things:
1. Tests for leaks, particularly when you have the original coolant pipe ends up from.
2. Allows you to bleed the system in one step.
3. Checks the cap as it should bleed off 5 psi or so when air supply is disconnected.
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