Mirror / Hing Pin Removal - ok I did a search

6sixTinBox

^^ Cool! Glad it worked out for you. A little late response.
_________________
1966 13 Window Deluxe

Comparison is the thief of joy - Theodore Roosevelt
John 14:6

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 10:11 am Post subject:

Got the tool from Bob Drake Ford today. Like I said, after soaking with PB for four days I didn't even need the tool...coulda punched it out easily with a drift. The used repop mirror I bought on here went it perfectly...real snug in the middle part of the hinge so no sag! It was a lucky job. If anybody wants to use the Bob Drake tool, I'll send it out to you. All you have to do is mail it back a week later. If you break or lose one of the four pins (you can only break them by not keeping things straight they say), just replace what you broke, or the whole tool. Chances are great the job will only cost you postage!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat

Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx

norcalmike · Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:26 am Post subject:

Thank you for the link on the hinge pin tool. I figured for 25 bucks and free shipping id add it to my toolbox

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 8:26 pm Post subject:

Only bending and breaking stuff. If you didn't do either you're good to go.
_________________
Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat

Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx

klcarrie · Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 6:06 pm Post subject:

I used an air chisel with the pointed end tool; got the pin out of rusty '55 door hinges pretty fast. Any pitfalls of said method?
_________________
Pritchin'
--
Currently looking for:

- Bay Bus Pinion Nut Socket

- 64-67 big nut (rear) drums and brake parts, 46mm axle nuts (Big Nuts)

--
'55 Wolfburg Pannel Project
'55 Wolfsburg SC Project
'71 Westy

Erik G · Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 2:35 pm Post subject:

I've never had an issue with hinge pins either. I soak them in whatever my current favorite rust blaster is (deep creep is my favorite right now) and give it a few days, opening and closing the door and letting it work it's way in. Maybe I've just been lucky?

that still looks like a useful tool to have

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 2:10 pm Post subject:

Here I am an hour later, and the pin slipped out the bottom with almost no effort. I now have the pin remover tool coming on Friday and it has nothing to do. Rolling Eyes

_________________
Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat

Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 12:52 pm Post subject:

Here we are a few days later and the shaft is totally free, just by constant soaking with PB Blaster and an occasional twist on the Vise Grips. The pin remover is scheduled to be here Friday, and will easily push this guy out. Maybe it's my bus (doubt it as it's always been here in the mid Atlantic), but penetrating fluid and patience (time) always does the trick. Of course, not everybody has the time to let something soak forever...some do this as a job or have to get things done in a more timely manner.
_________________
Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat

Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx

kenshapiro2002 · Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 2:36 pm Post subject:

6sixTinBox · Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 7:18 pm Post subject:

This was suggested on another hinge pin thread. Needless to say, $25 well spent versus the $300+ option. 24 hour WD-40 soak and 20 minutes of my time. Addtionally, the pin puller is forged steel and will take a beating!

https://www.bobdrake.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=TL-100

_________________
1966 13 Window Deluxe

Comparison is the thief of joy - Theodore Roosevelt
John 14:6

stevo · Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 7:55 am Post subject:

i tried the puller/wrench method a year ago and the wrench went flying at high speed a few times. since then i had put drops of blaster on it and drove 1500 miles. the last drip was a mix of acetone and atf; two drops over two days that hung around the pin remnant at the top.

then i removed the pin with a medium sized c-clamp and a cylinder head valve retainer on the top side. this method allowed time for removing hinge remnants from original mirror arms frozen in sawed off partial hinges. the acetone/atf mix was cut with pb blaster which really loosened up the shrapnel while using the dremel.

Hansolo99 · Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 11:27 am Post subject:

I agree^^^^^^^way cool idea!

nice dad · Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 10:40 am Post subject:

bugboy63 · Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 7:53 am Post subject:

DONKEY2018

All the info on hinge pin removal, mirror replacement was very helpful. Thank you one and all!

Stocknazi · Samba Member Joined: June 18, 2004 Posts: 5540

Interesting about the brass, similar to vent window pivit pins.
This is a 58 only driver's side arm with the "fatter" base so it is different that the long arc arms. It is broken off almost flush with the top of the base. I will see if i can find evidence of brass on the arm or base.

Just took a look at it and it has been brazed in. Now to fiqure out how to remove it from the hinge w/o destroying the pin.
_________________
WANTED:
58 Westfalia cabinet knobs (3 needed), roof rack, and (7) privy tent poles (silver painted).

"When the people are afraid of the government, that's tyranny. But when the government is afraid of the people, that's liberty."
"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants."

Thomas Jefferson

BeaterBarndoor · Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 2:43 pm Post subject:

i repaired 2 fat base arms before and they were both broke clean from inside the base. im not sure if someone had drilled them in the past ,didnt look like it.there was sign of brass at the hole making me think the arms were slid into the base which is a part of the pin,and then brazed in. i just made new arms in the right diameter and jb welded them into place . worked great. keep in mind these were 55 fat bases, not the later fate bases. not sure if they would be the same.
_________________
www.thebustransfer.com

Whaaaaat?

Stocknazi · Samba Member Joined: June 18, 2004 Posts: 5540

Bringing back this old thread with a new problem i am having with a broken off mirror arm.
I have a fat base mirror arm that has been broken off just above the fat base portion. Obviously i need to remove the pin portion from the door so i can weld the arm back on. My first question, is the base portion of the arm removable? I would like to slide the base upwards on the arm so I can weld the arm, if that is possible. Any ideas on how to remove this? I guess i could remove the door and put in a vice and hammer away, but i would like to keep from damaging the pin.
_________________
WANTED:
58 Westfalia cabinet knobs (3 needed), roof rack, and (7) privy tent poles (silver painted).

"When the people are afraid of the government, that's tyranny. But when the government is afraid of the people, that's liberty."
"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants."

Thomas Jefferson

campingbox · Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 10:25 am Post subject:

Anyone in the U.S. carrying oversized mirror arms yet? I could use a pair for a bus I'm working on right now.

Major Woody · Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 2:28 pm Post subject:

I used a nylon washer on the top and a toothwasher on the bottom between the hinge and the lock tab washer that stops the nut from spinning. I tried using phenolic washers top and bottom and found that the mirror moved too easily, particularly with wind gusts. A toothwasher at the bottom ensures that the mirror moves with the door.


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Premium Membership \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

Mirror / Hing Pin Removal - ok I did a search
Page: 1, 2, 3, 4 Next

	Forum Index -> Split Bus	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time Page: 1, 2, 3, 4 Next
Page 1 of 4